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Michael

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Michael last won the day on June 15 2019

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About Michael

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    was SW Ohio, now LA

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  1. That's my concern as well. My engine "probably" (not dyno tuned) makes around 450 hp, but it's all about low-end torque (461 cubic inches). The power level is quite a bit less than that of many of our forced-induction heroes, and so, perhaps zealotry about best-strongest-baddest driveline components would for my case be more posturing than prudence. But... the shock of that torque, coming at low rpm and part-throttle...?
  2. This thread is one the top entries when searching for "280Z rear 5-lug conversion", and that prompted a bump... * As of this writing, the Z-car-depot site looks the most promising. Checquered Flag is a placeholder website, and the link posted earlier in this thread, is dead. The Modern Motorsports domain is for sale. And the Whitehead thread is getting more and more desperate. * There's also this: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128217-ford-super-88-irs-swap-thread-rear-brakes-too/#comments . But I'm not sure how much of that is applicable if the aim is to retain the R200
  3. Please clarify: * Is this a one-off sale of a product that somebody has had in his/her garage for a while (so, a classifieds-ad)? * Or is this a new product, developed as an alternative to the existing retail offerings? * If it's a new product, what are its advantages over the usual competition (Silvermine, Arizona Z-car, Techno Toy,...)?
  4. Its interesting that you fellows have a positive impression of the Miata seats. My daily driver is a 1991 Miata, and while the seats are functional, they aren't exactly the highlight of the car. In the Miata community, tossing the stock seats and replacing them with something aftermarket, is a common practice... first for more support, and second to save weight. Yet another alternative is the "surfboard" (high back) seats from the NB2 Miata.
  5. Any thoughts on doing something like this, with a classical Ford 9"?
  6. Question about gear ratios for the 8.8 rear... earlier in this thread, one of the posters mentioned a Top Loader transmission. That has 1:1 highest gear, correct? Meanwhile, I run a Doug Nash 5-speed... also 1:1 5th gear... but a pretty deep 1st gear. To match such transmissions, the preferred rear-end ratio would therefore be numerically small... 2.73, or even lower. But the numerically lowest ratio that we saw in this thread, mentioned for the 8.8", is 3.15. That's still too high. Is anything lower available?
  7. Resurrecting this thread, for the following reasons and inquiries: 1. Did the original poster, now a "guest", make any progress? 2. Did Jmortensen, five years after 5 years after 5 years, reach his goals? 3. 10 years after my own posting in this thread, did I make any progress (answer: not yet, but "finally" I'm getting serious). 4. Why is the newest thread in this subforum, 5 years old? Aren't there any Datsun-related motorsports events worth mentioning? Or is this the wrong environment for such discussions?
  8. Just saw this thread. The original poster's wheels are 14x6, correct? Here is a photo of 14x7 "Western Turbine" wheels. They fit a stock -suspension 280Z, with about 3/4" gap between the outermost portion of the spring perch, and the innermost extent of the wheel lip or rubber. For the eagle-eyed, these are Pete Paraska's wheels, from >20 years ago... and yes, the "original" tires. My plan is to replace the tires with Toyo Proxes R888, 225/50R14. These look to be the last "meaty" tires available in 14" diameter, which are even remotely suitable for the occasional sparing jaunt down th
  9. Yes, I remember that Rota buy; it was quite the extravaganza. But weren't those wheels a bit on the... heavy side? That at least was my sentiment at the time. So I searched for alternatives... Konig, CCW, Enkei, XXR, and a dozen others. None had the magic combination of backspacing (or offset), bolt circle diameter, hub diameter and width. Weld wheels shows an example for a 280Z, here: https://www.weldwheels.com/gallery/fire-orange-1972-datsun-240z-weld-s77-forged-wheels/ . But if we look closely, we see 5 lugs. Perhaps, at $800/wheel, they'd be willing to drill for 4 lugs?
  10. Primaz, you're quite right about the relative abundance of 16" tire choices, over 15". This seems to be becoming even more of an issue with each successive passing year. Recently I sold some parts to a fellow who appeared in a Honda minivan... the usual trappings of family-life in the back...strollers, toys, grocery bags filled with various stuff. But the minivan was sporting 19" wheels, with 245-50 tires! They actually looked like Panasports... only giant-ones. Thus about tires. But what of wheels? Spending some idle hours in the wilds of the internet, looking at wheels in 1
  11. Bumping this thread, first to inquire as to whether the original poster has made a purchase and has results to report, and second to note that the link that I posted in March, now seems to be dead. That is, 15" tire choices have dwindled even further. The largest (widest) for my purposes, that is currently available, seems to be this one: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?gclid=CjwKCAjwmeiIBhA6EiwA-uaeFZorYZPfqBgMhIOxDF64xOmrK1xyQKiFDPcbf6Bu1BaWu53B4_p7zRoCt94QAvD_BwE&tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R888R&partnum=35WR5R888R&GCID=C13674x012-tire&KEYWORD=tires.jsp_Toy
  12. According to this site: https://www.wheeltech360.com/ROTA-Wheel-Kyusha-15x8-4x11430mm-73mm-Hub_p_136.html , the Rota Kyusha 15x8 in 4x114.3 weigh 16.6 pounds. Not outrageous, but a bit on the heavy-side. A search for 15x8 wheels in suitable offset (+0; or was that -0? I'm so confused!!!) shows that many weigh around 16 pounds. Some months (years?) ago, I had a thread on Vors wheels (https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/132345-vors-wheels-specifically-tr3-opinions/), which were 2-3 pounds lighter. Next question is tires. As expected, choices in 15" are... limited. There
  13. While of course I can't speak for Fusion (or others), the rationale behind 5-lugs is that it allows for use of the standard drag-racing wheel choices, especially in 15" diameter. If easier/cheaper alternatives are forthcoming, then of course it would be silly to insist on an upgrade merely for upgrade's sake! But in my experience - broad, but shallow and unsophisticated - to find decently light/strong wheels in 15x8 in 4x114.3 has been problematic, to put it mildly. Noll - your photos are intriguing indeed. What wheels to you use, and where did you find them? What size are they
  14. The big challenge is not in making one or another individual choice, of this brake-kit or that, but in having the entire combination work as a system... brakes, wheel/tires, suspension and drivetrain. Larger brake rotors mean larger wheels, which often means conversion to 5-lug and/or the coilover mod to accept larger backspacing. 5-lugs means, in the rear, new stub axles, and that likely leads to new half-shafts and so on. The project snowballs. There is no obvious way to change one set of components, leaving the rest alone, without glaringly deleterious effects, like the rear
  15. Remove the valve covers and inspect the rockers and pushrods. The latest malady sounds like what happens with a "wiped" flat tappet cam and bent pushrods. Also manually turn the crank-bolt and check that the valves are opening correctly (that whole 18436572 firing-order thing). Re-do the "quarter turn trick" if it's a hydraulic cam, and re-set the lash if it's a mechanical cam. It's conceivable that the distributor was installed 180 degrees backwards, so to speak. That is, spark hits the #1 piston as it's coming up on the... exhaust stroke, instead of the intake stroke.
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