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Ignitor TEST?


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this isn't a foolproof test, but I used a little 12v battery at base (computer input yellow/white wire) of the tranistor and measured resistance accross the neg coil end (blue wire) and ground. Everytime the 12 volts is applied the meter should read close to a short, at a minimum the resistance should change from like 2kohms to 2-3ohms.

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Bad ignitors don't usualy let the car run at all. The ignitor is simply a transistor designed to use as a switch.

 

I would check timing and the temperature sensor. Is it spitting a dark cloud of smoke out the back when it is sputtering?

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i checked the sensors and changed my head temp sens. no it doesnt smoke at all. i dotn have any vacuum things hooked up. jus my AFM. maybe its cuz they dont have all the crap on it. it runs good when it wants to. i think the AFM might be going bad tho cuz when i mess with the flap it idles a lil better and revs cleaner.

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I don't know if you ran it or not, but the bypass routes air around the throttle valve during cold startups. As the car warms up the valve closes. A lot of guys opt to not even run the bypass valve.

 

The default setting of the valve is open so it allows air around the throttle valve all the time. In the bypass housing is a bimetal wire that uses both electricity and warm engine water to close. If you're not going to hook it up I would plug off the end coming from the intake, but it runs lousy while it is cold.

 

A quick test is to simply crimp off the air line and check how it idles with the line crimped on and off. By the way, that is a tip directly from the manufacturers manual to test the bypass valve.

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I believed they are different. I actually have the 300ZX dizzy in my garage lol. After my dizzy went bad I figured I need some for spare and I went to the junk yard and took one home and tried to swap over and it was not the same .. I think I've read someone said they are the same but from my experience no they are not the same. GL

 

I assume you won't be needing the ignitor any more eh? lol

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