Iron cylinder block = rust in cooling system. Help!

[EMWHYR0HEN]

I noticed that with Iron blocks its seems almost imposible to get rid of the rust that forms in the cooling system. I used green prestone in my L28 and i still do with my new RB engine. However, after about 2000 miles the green coolant turns to sh*t brown. My stock radiator started leaking so im now replacing it with a new aluminum and i wanted to know:

 

whats a good way to flush out the entire cooling system of the engine?

what I usually do is run a water hose into engine with a clamp so that it generates pressure and flush it that way.

 

Also, is there any additive i can add to my coolant to prevent rust in the water/coolant?

 

should i go with Orange or green coolant? whats the Difference?

 

and, what water to to coolant ratio should i go with? usually igo with 50/50.

 

sugestions?

[rubin]

from what I know the orange is better, and coolant has an any rust chemical inside it. i hear 40coolant/60water is best for summer and opposite for winter, but 50/50 should be just fine too.

 

I wouldnt really worry about the rust too much though, just surface rust, not like your block is going to rust through and break on you.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

from what I know the orange is better' date=' and coolant has an any rust chemical inside it. i hear 40coolant/60water is best for summer and opposite for winter, but 50/50 should be just fine too.

 

I wouldnt really worry about the rust too much though, just surface rust, not like your block is going to rust through and break on you.[/quote']

 

Thanks. I'm not anal compulsive or anything, but it just bothers me that every oil change i have to flush out the coolant as well because theres rust particles in the brown coolant, and coolant aint cheap!

 

I guess i'll try to switch over to the red/orange dexcool stuff, i guess it will blend better with the rust and i wont notice. lol.

[AK-Z]

I've been told baking soda in the coolant. Not sure if it works or would even try it on any of my cars. Supposedly electrical properties of water and baking soda and iron oxide come into play.

 

Just what Ive heard.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

I've been told baking soda in the coolant. Not sure if it works or would even try it on any of my cars. Supposedly electrical properties of water and baking soda and iron oxide come into play.

 

Just what Ive heard.

 

yeah i dont think i'll try it either. haha thanks anyway.

 

I did talk to friend/ mechanic and he said with older cars suited with newer engines that have rusty coolant usually comes from the heater core, or radiator. Duh! makes sence.

 

maybe i'll try flushing the heater core, or since its starting to warm up maybe i'll just disconnect it.

[AK-Z]

isn't the heater core piping made of copper? then the should look a milky blueish green.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

isn't the heater core piping made of copper? then the should look a milky blueish green.

 

True, but maybe there's rust/sediments slugged up in the core.

Im thinking its the core also because I had the same problem with me previous engine.

[73ZCAR]

EM,

 

I was having all sorts of problems with my cooling system. Rusty coolant no matter how I mixed A.F. and water. Radiators getting eaten from the inside out. Sealing problems. White crust at the cap. ETC....

 

The problem?

 

Electrolysis.

 

To see if you have a similar problem start the car with the cap off the radiator, use a multimeter set to volts and check the voltage between the NEG. terminal and the coolant.

 

If you see any more than 0.1 VOLTS you have a problem.

 

The soloution for me was a new ground strap between the NEG. connection at the starter and the body at the firewall. I just used another battery ground cable with two eye ends that I got from Auto Zone.

 

No more problems.

 

Try the test.

 

Mike.

[AK-Z]

EM' date='

 

I was having all sorts of problems with my cooling system. Rusty coolant no matter how I mixed A.F. and water. Radiators getting eaten from the inside out. Sealing problems. White crust at the cap. ETC....

 

The problem?

 

Electrolysis.

 

To see if you have a similar problem start the car with the cap off the radiator, use a multimeter set to volts and check the voltage between the NEG. terminal and the coolant.

 

If you see any more than 0.1 VOLTS you have a problem.

 

The soloution for me was a new ground strap between the NEG. connection at the starter and the body at the firewall. I just used another battery ground cable with two eye ends that I got from Auto Zone.

 

No more problems.

 

Try the test.

 

Mike.[/quote']

 

So basically a grounding kit.

[Dave]

Exhaust gasses entering the coolant will also cause the coolant

to break down as yours seem to be doing. They make a tool

called a Block Tester or Combustion LeakTester that tests for

the presence of exhaust gasses in the coolant. There is also a

pressure tester that you can use that pumps the cooling ststem

up to the cap pressure that will test for leaks. The Block Tester

is about $50 Both tests can easly and quickly done by a radiator

shop. Any exhaust gasses in the cooling system will eat up the

radiator and heater core in short order.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=578&location_id=169&go=preset677Stant

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STANT-RaDiaToR-PreSSure-TEST-Kit-AuToMoTive-TooLs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43995QQitemZ4617047327

[grumpyvette]

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000879/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2000879/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=anode

 

install an ANODE and run a higher than 50% anti freeze mix in the coolant

[EMWHYR0HEN]

Exhaust gasses entering the coolant will also cause the coolant

to break down as yours seem to be doing. They make a tool

called a Block Tester or Combustion LeakTester that tests for

the presence of exhaust gasses in the coolant. There is also a

pressure tester that you can use that pumps the cooling ststem

up to the cap pressure that will test for leaks. The Block Tester

is about $50 Both tests can easly and quickly done by a radiator

shop. Any exhaust gasses in the cooling system will eat up the

radiator and heater core in short order.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=578&location_id=169&go=preset677Stant

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STANT-RaDiaToR-PreSSure-TEST-Kit-AuToMoTive-TooLs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43995QQitemZ4617047327

 

Ive seen exhaust in the coolant before, and im positive thats not my problem. Thanks though.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

thanks 73zcar. i'l give that a try.

 

grumpyvette, what is that thing? is it just a magnet?

 

as for the the more anti freeze to water ratio, thats what i thought would be a good solution. although, people usually say run more water than coolant in the summer, and vice versa in the winter. It doesnt make much sence to me because coolant/antifreeze has a higher boiling point than water (almost 100 degrees celcius!) not only that, but coolant has stuff in it that prevents rust.

[grumpyvette]

"grumpyvette, what is that thing?"

 

its a sacrificial anode, thats a metal that slowly oxidizes while preventing the other metals from doing so!

Galvanic corrosion, often misnamed "electrolysis," is one common form of corrosion in marine environments. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals are brought into electrical contact under water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone. Either (or both) metals in the couple may or may not corrode by itself (themselves) in seawater. When contact with a dissimilar metal is made, however, the self-corrosion rates will change: corrosion of the anode will accelerate; corrosion of the cathode will decelerate or even stop.

[olie05]

"grumpyvette' date=' what is that thing?"

 

[b']its a sacrificial anode,[/b] thats a metal that slowly oxidizes while preventing the other metals from doing so!

Galvanic corrosion, often misnamed "electrolysis," is one common form of corrosion in marine environments. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals are brought into electrical contact under water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone. Either (or both) metals in the couple may or may not corrode by itself (themselves) in seawater. When contact with a dissimilar metal is made, however, the self-corrosion rates will change: corrosion of the anode will accelerate; corrosion of the cathode will decelerate or even stop.

 

hmm.. is there a way to use a sacrificial anode on the body (chassis) of a car, or is this only when the metal is completely submerged?

[Guest XXtaZy]

thanks 73zcar. i'l give that a try.

 

grumpyvette' date=' what is that thing? is it just a magnet?

 

as for the the more anti freeze to water ratio, thats what i thought would be a good solution. although, people usually say run more water than coolant in the summer, and vice versa in the winter. It doesnt make much sence to me because coolant/antifreeze has a higher boiling point than water (almost 100 degrees celcius!) not only that, but coolant has stuff in it that prevents rust.[/quote']

 

That's what I thought. It raised boiling point and lowered boiling point.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

That's what I thought. It raised boiling point and lowered boiling point.

 

I have a friend who worked on one my cars way back when, and he topped the rad and engine with 100% coolant, and no water. I thought he was a jackass because he was saying water was your enemy. I always thought water is one of the best heat absorbers. I also made him drain half of the coolant back out and put water.

 

was I, in fact the one who was a jackass? 100% cooalnt = good?

 

pro's? cons?

[EMWHYR0HEN]

That's what I thought. It raised boiling point and lowered boiling point.

 

i just noticed this, didnt you mean raised boiling point and lowerd freezing point?

[EMWHYR0HEN]

"grumpyvette' date=' what is that thing?"

 

[b']its a sacrificial anode,[/b] thats a metal that slowly oxidizes while preventing the other metals from doing so!

Galvanic corrosion, often misnamed "electrolysis," is one common form of corrosion in marine environments. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals are brought into electrical contact under water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone. Either (or both) metals in the couple may or may not corrode by itself (themselves) in seawater. When contact with a dissimilar metal is made, however, the self-corrosion rates will change: corrosion of the anode will accelerate; corrosion of the cathode will decelerate or even stop.

 

Thanks! that doesnt exactly make a whole lot of sence to me, but your a retired engineer ,and i'll take you word for it!

[grumpyvette]

a SACRIFICIAL ANODE works best in water but it has some effect even if the (WATER) is only moisture,I know guys whove installed ZINK and MAGNISIUM strips in the frames of thier cars and they swear it slows body rust. they usually install a 15-35 lb SACRIFICIAL ANODE on barried gas storage tanks even in dry soil as it tends to slow the tanks rusting away under ground by a huge percentage vs a similar storage tank without one,while a standard tank might last 15 years or longer attach an anode and the anode equiped tank can and frequently do last 40 plus years, as the anode not the tanks metal deteriorates

 

check with any marina, they will have examples of what a anode can do to prevent sea water from eating thru metal parts or not do to prevent damage once its removed in thier trash cans and salvage scrap piles