Pop N Wood Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Your home water heater has an anode installed. Basically the anode rusts first preventing the metal in the heater/boat/radiator from rusting. Anodes need to be replaced every now and then cause once they are gone, it becomes the other metal's turn to rust. Also everything I have ever read says straight antifreeze is not as good as the proper mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Ditto sacrificial anode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Also everything I have ever read says straight antifreeze is not as good as the proper mix. Yeah it has something to do with the anti freeze being corrosive towards non faris (sp) metals, just what I remember from reading about it. Kind of the opposite with straight water and a iron block, something to do with the Hp level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted March 25, 2006 Author Share Posted March 25, 2006 Thanks guys! hope it solves my problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 sacrificial anode is a good idea. You don't really need to spend 12.50$ for a piece of zinc for the purpose of that. If you have a spent carbon-zinc battery(not alkaline battery), strip the soft metal shell off off the battery, that is zinc. I have a small jar of those zinc strips for whatever uses. If you want to remove all rust without damaging the metal underneath, this product seems promising http://www.evapo-rust.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted March 25, 2006 Author Share Posted March 25, 2006 sacrificial anode is a good idea. You don't really need to spend 12.50$ for a piece of zinc for the purpose of that. If you have a spent carbon-zinc battery(not alkaline battery)' date=' strip the soft metal shell off off the battery, that is zinc. I have a small jar of those zinc strips for whatever uses. If you want to remove all rust without damaging the metal underneath, this product seems promising http://www.evapo-rust.com/ actually its like 20 bucks for that thing shipped. im a cheapo college student, and i dont have a carbon zinc battery (where can i get one) , any other local places that i can get this magic stuff from besides from a battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 If you guys want to use anodes, then you will have to firmly bolt them directly to the inside of the raditor where they will be in direct contact with the coolant. You have to get it onto bare metal too. Not sure how you would accomplish this. And try a boating store or marina that works on boats. They may even give you some old boat anodes that you can cut down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubin Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 true that coolant will increase the boiling point, but water is a better heat transferrer. I think you can increase your boiling point by increasing the maximum pressure (with the rad cap). I wonder if you could pour a bit of that evaporust stuff in your coolant. It sais it wont affect metals but maybe rubber and plastic components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest XXtaZy Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 i just noticed this, didnt you mean raised boiling point and lowerd freezing point? Uhm.. yea.. thanks for pointing that out... There's always ONE that notices.... haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Some rust is inevitable even with all new parts, water + bare metal = rust. The best mixture seems to be a 50/50 mix and will supposedly stay liquid below -30 degrees. Straight glychol freezes at 17 degrees. Higher boiling points can be acheived by varrying the cap pressure, every aditional pound is equal to a three degree raise in boiling point. Also you could try Water Wetter, it supposedly breaks the surface tention of the water and has some corosion inhibitors too. Just some stuff I remember from school, hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 and i dont have a carbon zinc battery LOL YES YOU DO. This is what a carbon-zinc battery look like : http://img.ebigchina.com/cdimg/124443/1087424/0/1097409572.jpg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon-zinc_battery If a battery looks like that and is NOT alkaline then it is a carbon-zinc bat.. They usually have a protective steel shell, remove that and you'll see another layer of metal, that is zinc. Try to strip spent batteries only, unless you are careful enough to avoid a short circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 Haha, thanks. I'm in luck though, My Local parts store sells new 20lb radiator caps with anodes already attached to the cap with a flexible cable wire. so, no need for me to try and do some home made experiemnets, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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