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need brake ideas for v-8 pro-charged 73 z


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I have done quite a bit of work on this 73 z. It now has a purpose built 355 with a Pro Charger on it. Obviously the brakes are woefully innadequate. I called Motorsports Auto and they said use their 4 piston calipers with slotted rotors up front and carbon /Kevlar SHOES in the back. Is this really the way to go? $1200+ seems pretty spendy. Any of you guru's have any ideas?

Peter

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a570val, sorry to veer from the subject, but had a quick question. I've taken lots of measurements with my P600B. In a previous post I stated it might not be possible to run the P600 with the engine in the full set back. Is yours in the full set back position like the JTR kit or more like the Scarab? I'd like to hear more about the car/ engine specs. I'd like to do a project like this someday

 

Some here are running the Toyota brake upgrade. Look at Mikelly's tech articles.

 

JS

 

[This message has been edited by John Scott (edited October 14, 2000).]

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a57oval (Peter):

 

I'd say forget about that MSA upgrade. You will need vented rotors on the front to make any real gains in fade resistance. That means going to a hybrid 300ZX/Toyota setup, or other hybrid setups, or a totally aftermarket setup. There are several upgrades out there, just search for around in this forum (use the search engine). Check the tech article section for Mike Kelly's (Mikelly) setup. Mike (scca) has a few setups also, Arizona Z car does, etc.

 

I know there are a bunch of us that would love the details on how you procharged the 355 in your Z. The room seems tight, so any details on mounting, intercooler, model of progharger, etc. would be VERY interesting!

 

Welcome aboard!

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The MSA "upgrade" appears to be nothing more than the nonvented Toyota upgrade. IMO they're getting a pretty penny for it!

 

Go with the vented setup mentioned here -> http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000210.html and be sure to check out SCCAs offerings. I've not yet installed the brakes and coilovers I've purchased from him but my dealings with him have been positive and his prices very competitive. If the Toyota upgrade doesn't look like it'll be good enough he's got some options over and above it that should certainly throw the anchor out! He races what he sells so he's had some good input here on what works IMO.

 

So - please more details on that drivetrain :-) Want lot's of pictures! (lol)

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motorsport auto- just say no......

 

if the cars that fast i dont think even the toyota conversion will be enough. at least i wouldnt want to be in it at 130mph and then have to do a stop . and if you ever decided to do any track days you would melt the toyota setup in a few laps. they are a big improvement over a stock Z but not designed for high speed use..

think about it how fast does a 4runner go!

if your car has more HP than a 300TT then it should have = or larger brakes than that car came with from the factory........thats IMO and i'm sticking to it

 

------------------

Mike

http://www.fonebooth.com

raceparts and brakeupgrades

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Guest Anonymous

Keep in mind a z32 weighs around 3500 pounds dry. Add gas and a drive and it approaches the 2 ton mark!!!!!! Yikes!

A typical 240 weighs what, well under 2500 pounds dry. 240 generally has skinnier tires also, thus less traction and correspondingly lower rate of work the brakes must do.

 

 

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Morgan morgan@z31.com

http://carfiche.com

http://z31.com

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Guest Anonymous

First; Thanks for the brake upgrade information. I have decided not to go with the MSA option. I need to do some more pokin' to figure out what would be the best solution for the car. It sounds like I need to talk to Mike Kelly,SCCA guy, and possibly others.

 

Now about the car. It is a 73 240 with the JTR setback kit for the chev V-8. It does have HEI and 1/4 inch of clearance between firewall and cap. It also has a procharger P600B(?) mounted.John Scott; It does work. there are many specific thing you have to do to make everything fit. Do you want lurid details or generals? The car has been dynoed and produces 343 hp and 427lb/ft of torque. Dyno sheets can be made available if anyone is interested. This is corrected Rear wheel horsepower. It does not have an intercooler, it does have the 14lb 8 rib pulley and produces 1lbs. of boost at 5500 rpm.IT DOES NOT PING on super(92 octane). I did all of the fabrication/ necessary body work to make it fit. It does have a stock hood. The engine is connected to a t-56 then to a r-200 open Diff(this needs to change). The car is carburated and runs and drives very well. It doesn't buck, spit,lurch, hesitate, or act flakey in any way. stiometric is 12.2 to 12.7 at Wide open throttle as verified by a wide band 02 sensor. Water temp never goes over 200. The compression is 7.81 to 1. This may seem low to some but it hauls ass and DOESN'T PING. To be perfectly honest I was very dissapointed with the horsepower figures but I am not dissapointed with how it drives. I was expecting 400 rwp. I have since found out from the engine builder that he used S/R torquer heads. Lots of torque down low, Not what you need in a 2600 lb car. I will gladly furnish any/every one with any specs they want concerning anything about the car. I will burn a roll of film on it next week and get these developed ASAP. The most chalenging part of the project was dealing with people who were supposed to know what part does what and later finding out that I do have the wrong part, I actually need this or that part.

 

Enough of my ranting. If anyone would like more info let me know.

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a57oval, lurid details would be great, but I'd settle for general. I believe in decicated blower motors!! Mine runs 7.5:1 and has run up to 16 psi w/o detonation on premium. Eventually I'd like all the build details as well as your tuning specs. In other words as much as you'd like to share with us. When you get some pictures up it may answer lots of questions. Which carb are you running? How much strut mods did you need to make? Sounds like a great ride! I'll look forward to hearing more. Perhaps this part of the thread could be restarted in the V8 section so we don't clutter up the brakes wheels suspen??

JS

 

[This message has been edited by John Scott (edited October 15, 2000).]

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I am running the toyota calipers with new solid rotors and a set of Raybestos Brute stop pads. These pads work better as they get hotter. I am partners on a street stock circle track car(86 monte) and we got the whole season on 1 set of pads. The rotors were glowing on some of the race nights and the pads held up,inspite of the stock rotors. The pads made all the difference in the world. If you have a $$$$$ restriction this was some good bang for my buck. IMO!

 

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The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!!

 

Drewz

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No doubt the "stickier" pads work much better than stock on any caliper. THe problem with the Z rotor is that the mass is so low that it heats up to quick and that leads to fade. It also isn't vented so it can't get rid of the heat fast either. This is of course for really running the brakes hard in succession a few time. I did that with the wimpy stock L6 and the fade was SCARY.

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i run the toyota calipers on stock rotors.barely enough for road course tracks with custom porterfield pads that eat rotors.try design products in huntington beach ca.i put one of there willwood kits on a 240 race car.the front rorors are standard nascar sportsman rotors with 4 piston calipers.12.25 by 1.25 rotorsrear is 84 zx rotors wth willwood 2 piston calipers.car will be guarenteed safe then.my buddy drives real deep into turns and brakes are always there.tried to abuse them at laguna seca-no luck car always stops.

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that sounds like the exact same setup i'm making .. similar rotors and just a different name caliper- but if he had the cast wilwoods they arent as durable as the billet ones. outlaws billet are a better price than wilwoods.

 

------------------

Mike

http://www.fonebooth.com

raceparts and brakeupgrades

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