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This sound like a good deal for a SBC?


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A guy rather local to me is selling a 350 fresh from the machine shop. He says he'd take $400 for all of it, and here's the details:

 

010 block, .60 over, passenger side dipstick, probably from the 70s. Fresh turned crank, reconditioned rods, new cam bearings, all machine work done. Stock cam and timing set, with no oil pan. Says it also comes with a better set of pistons. He said it's also the older style 2 piece rear main seal, so should fit with the JTR kit.

 

One thing I like about it, other than it's pretty cheap and freshly machined, is that it's not that ugly Chevy Orange color. He seems to have left the block just natural iron which I like better. Anyone care to look at the pics and tell me what they think after reading the description? Also I asked him for the casting #s on it. It's not really important, but it'll give me something to look up and read about it.

 

v82.jpg

v81.jpg

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$400 bones! I'd scoop it up for that price, swap out that cam though. Build a nice little engine, probably has cast pistons but what the hey $400 is a DEAL since all the machine work is done and it's assembled. You'd better go get it before somebody else does.

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He said he's going to snap a few more pics of it tonight. It's been soaked in WD and stored in a bag so that works out good in my favor of it being taken care of since he has brought it home. Says the spare set of pistons are true 4 valve relief. Do the pistons that are in it look like they were modified to be 4 valve relief or something?

 

Anyone know any good Chevy swap meet internet sites where I could see about getting an oil pan or browse through what stock SBC heads would go good on that? Seeing as how I don't have the $ to pay for aftermarket heads :) I thought all GM parts were cheap until I saw the prices of T56 Tremec's and aftermarket heads lol

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its OK but not great. I wouldnt be surprised if that motor overheat because of the overbore. Its .060 over so no more boring for that block and there is no telling how thin the cylinder walls are now. Some blocks will take that much overbore no problem some wont, its a complete toss up. I personally wont take a 350 block over .040 if I am planning on any kind of performance. For $400 are you getting heads or anything else? Seriously its not a horrible deal but I just dont like .060 over part.

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Nope no heads, just the block minus the oil pan. I'm not sure how much performance you have in mind in relation to the overheating part due to it being overbored quite a bit; however I don't want 500 hp and 550 lb ft of torque and all that. I only want around 275-325 hp or so. I don't want gobs and gobs of power because I don't want to destroy the R200 rearend and twist the frame into a pretzel and all that.

 

p.s. from what I can gather so far by looking up oil pans on Ebay and not having the block numbers yet, since it's a pass. side dipstick, it appears to be the 80-85 blocks if that means anything to anyone.

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I'm not going to sit here and disrespect you like you just disrespected me. Some guys like tons of frame twisting torque and gobs of horsepower; some guys don't. I want my Z to be show, and a good bit of go. 325 hp or so is still a respectable amount and will get me going like I want it to.

 

But I'll tell ya this, I'd much much rather have 425 all wheel horsepower in my Eclipse than an equal amount in a domestic, or some other car with a v8. While you're back tires are spinning (unless you're running steamroller sized tires in the back) I'm going to leave your happy *** at the line every time.

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Please dont ever compare an import to V8+ horspower, that makes me hurt from laughing so hard.

 

You obviously have never had a ride in an AWD boosted DSM.

LMAO Sparks shssssh dont tell him.... these are the kind of people who loss their money on the streets. ;)

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I'm glad to see there are other guys on here that stick up for other members, even newbies (though only newbies on here) and aren't so brand loyal that they discount the performance of anything other than a Nissan product without even having had experience with said product. All hail the 4g63 :-D And of course Z cars woohoo

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He said it's also the older style 2 piece rear main seal, so should fit with the JTR kit.....One thing I like about it, other than it's pretty cheap and freshly machined, is that it's not that ugly Chevy Orange color

 

First off, I LOVE the part about the ugly Chevy orange. I'm a big Chevy guy but I can't stand faded chevy orange and all the chevy guys around here want to paint their differentials, driveshafts and cupholders that color!

 

Also, the two piece and one piece block has absolutely nothing to do with the JTR conversion. The only difference is the actual seal and the crank (where the seal is). You won't be able to rebuild that block being .060 over which might be fine for you especially pushing less than 1hp/cubic inch.

 

Junkyard vortec heads are the only way to go IMO for the power that you want. I would shoot for 300-350hp which you should be able to get with an almost stock idling cam without machining the heads for more lift. A local machine shop sells them here for $350 a pair ready to bolt on which is a smokin' deal. New I think they're $500 give or take.

 

(I also like the part about the T56 and aftermarket heads not being as cheap as you thought....)

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