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This sound like a good deal for a SBC?


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"off topic but i must say that there is a reason why the fast drag cars are RWD and not AWD... RWD owns AWD at the drag strip AND at the road course, the ONLY time AWD is better is on non paved surfaces and rain or snow"

 

Wow, you could start another thread with that statement.

 

Iron heads make more power than aluminum heads in an apples to apples comparison not counting any kind of porting. The heat retained by the iron keeps energy. Heat is energy.

 

Comparing the L-98 to the vortec isn't really a fair comparison. You have about 10 years difference in technology. The vortec head was developed from the reverse flow LT-1 and made its way back to the standard v-8 after the LT-1. The runner design gave both good low and high rpm flow.

 

The take off on that runner design led to a total redesign of the small block and the birth of the new LS type engine with the tall cathedral style runners.

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The take off on that runner design led to a total redesign of the small block and the birth of the new LS type engine with the tall cathedral style runners.

 

Which BTW, BLOW THE DOORS OFF any other SBC ever produced in flow numbers. LSX motors are some potent mice that are only getting more potent. I guess thats why Im throwing a LS1 in my Z :D

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Which BTW, BLOW THE DOORS OFF any other SBC ever produced in flow numbers. LSX motors are some potent mice that are only getting more potent. I guess thats why Im throwing a LS1 in my Z :D

 

Smart move, no boubt.

 

On the 60 over block as mentioned earlier. If it's a 2 bolt block with the weaker /thinner castings be careful. 010/020 blocks bore to 60 woth no heat issues.

 

Mike

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$400 for that shortblock IS a good deal, plain and simple. Yes, there could be hidden flaws. But a $3000 shortblock could also be suspect, with hairline cranks, mismatched bearing tolerances and all sorts of other ills. Paying top-dollar does not insulate you from potential trouble, but getting a low price definitely eases the pain if and when trouble comes. The tradeoff in quality vs. price is rife with risk at any price level.

 

Nor does building the engine yourself necessarily help, unless you are an experienced mechanic, in which case the entire discussion is moot! Can you really measure bearing clearances down to accuracy of < 0.001� I can’t. I couldn’t, even if I had the right tools – and I don’t. I spent $1500 on a mild performance rebuild (stock block, crank and rods), not including the cam and oiling system. Yes, it was a very reputable machine shop that used modern tools and took their time, but in the end it’s still a gamble – I’m taking their word for the precision clearances. I’m taking their word that they really did use a torque-plate for honing the cylinders, and that they really did use the correct bob weights when balancing the crank. And there are still no guarantees that the engine won’t grenade 5 minutes after it’s started.

 

That said, your biggest frustration will be trying to continue the low-price theme for the rest of the engine. I mean, “to do it right†you will end up with at least $500 (maybe $800 or more) for heads with the right machining and valves. Then there’s the oiling system, the intake tract, the exhaust tract, and the various engine externals like cooling and ignition. After spending another $2000 on these various parts, you’ll be wondering: “Maybe I should have spent another $300 on the shortblock – then I wouldn’t have to worry that the shortblock would be a weak linkâ€. But in truth, there is always a weak link! Spend more money on any particular part, and you’ve just transferred the weakness elsewhere.

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