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maxima brackets who is going to do it?


Guest scca

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is there someone in the process of making the brackets? i know MikeD and another were thinking of making some and i think someone else was too?

having one pair made at a time is pricey , and i have had a few requests in the last month but been waiting to see if someone else gets these done.....

i contacted a machine shop about making 50pcs but want to know if someone else is in the process of getting a quantity made

 

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Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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morgan, the drawback with the Z32 calipers means NO E-brake. they may be abundant but not much less than new oulaw 1000 series 2 piston calipers which are only $160 pr NEW. usually z32 rears sell for $100 pr so for me personally i would rather have new billet for $60 more . stainless steel pistons -billet instead of cast and new..

 

 

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Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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SCCA, I like E-brakes (on street cars), too. I have the Arizona Z brakes, but added some mechanical spot calipers with custom (flat AL plate) brackets.

 

BTW, doesn't this (Maxima) bracket do the same thing as the one that some guy named Eric of Z-quip used to sell? I mean, isn't it for using the same calipers and rotors? That one kind of scared me because of all the thin pieces at right angles welded together.

 

Anyone though of using a piece of 1/4" steel or aluminum (with lightening holes) bent to shape, instead of all that mill work? Heck, even a welded up one. That's a good bit of machine work to mill all that stuff out. But then again, if it's CNC'd, who cares, the machine doesn't get tired wink.gif.

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project

pparaska@home.com

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

 

[This message has been edited by pparaska (edited December 20, 2000).]

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pete, the zquip stuff was for the 81 caliper rotor combo. not the later offset hub rotor from the 82...

thus why we all need a "new" bracket and its just coincidental that the 5 lug stuff i do on the rears is the same offset as the 82 zx rotor so the bracket is the same for either a 4lug or 5 lug with small rear disks..

 

guess you bought the wilwood spot calipers huh? hooked them up yet...

 

Mike

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Yep, the Wilwood Spot mechanical calipers. I had a machinist buddy make a pair of brackets to hold them and bolt to the bottom of the AZ Zcar caliper mounting plates. The funky design of the caliper requires skinny little fingers to hold the caliper, as it's a sliding setup. Tough to do well without a mill, which I don't have frown.gif.

 

I used the stock 240Z E-brake cable bracket modified to mount on the lower AZ Zcar caliper bolt. The stock 240Z E-brake cable works fine.

 

I need to post some pics on my page, I guess.

 

If I were to do this over and didn't have the AZ Zcar parts so cheap, I'd go for a good, light caliper with E-brake capability. I guess it's hard to find a light caliper with E-brake capability, as the racers don't need this and the OE's tend to go with iron calipers most of the time.

 

BTW, I know, I know, E-brakes probably aren't that important to most people that build Hi-po street cars, but I want this thing totally street legal, and safe as well. In other words, I know most people here probably think I'm nuts to spend time and money adding separate calipers just for E-brake capability. I'm never under the impression that I'm NOT a little nuts. Maybe more than just a little biggrin.gif.

 

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Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project

pparaska@home.com

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

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Guest Anonymous

I found a hydraulic parking brake valve finally! You just pump up the brakes, press a lever on the valve, and release brakes and the valve holds pressure in the braking system. To release you step hard on the brake pedal and it cracks the valve, releasing the pressure.

This also means you can put your parking brake on the front wheels - extremely difficult to tow then! Or get 2 valves and have parking brakes on all 4 wheels!

Valve is cheap too, like $40 or so.

 

 

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Morgan

http://z31.com/~morgan/s30

http://carfiche.com

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quote:

My concern was to have emergency brake capability as well, so I had to go to the calipers.
[/b]

 

I"m with you all the way their Pete. The 'emergency' part if primary concern and parking feature just comes with it. Maybe on open road etc you can 'runout' but on track or even some other situations being able to instantly lock that rear can save your bacon. It can rapidly redirect your car if your cliffbound and have the right reaction (saved one guys bacon at SIR who was too hot in the wrong corner..)

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SCCA - you've piqued my interest on the Outlaw rears smile.gif I think the brakes I got from you have no E-brake, $160 is decent! Will it fit the same brackets that I've already got? I'm pretty sure mine are weld-on. How much are the front calipers? Same brackets? Rotors? Really don't want to redo the whole setup until I've tried it out at least but billet makes me drool and an E-brake is icing on the cake. Well okay, E-brake is really important to me smile.gif

 

TNX! Hope to unbox the stuff and organize it today for possible work this holiday - at last!

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Jim. i'm pretty sure you got the ebrake calipers-- so long ago smile.gif i cant remember either...

 

Morgan, the park-loc i have mentioned before. its a COMMON VW part intended for dunebuggys its NOT street legal. FWIW i would use one on my car though, and Jamar makes one of the better ones at $30

i found a place online that sells it for that/

 

Pete, i have sold 3 sets of the rear outlaws with the wilwood spot caliper, thats the ONLY mechanical way to do a ebrake currently. all street rods have no ebrake or use the spotcaliper. the park -lock is something i want to try on my personal car but i make no guarantees as i know its not DOT legal.. but If i lived in SFran i wouldnt be using it!

 

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Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

why not just use the maxima bracket? it's a nissan part, #44155-04510. is there some reason it won't work? there is an how to on this conversion at ideal-z.com,

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Guest Anonymous

Someone really needs to look into the rear z32 caliper thing!

They have the same bolt spacing as the maxima brackets, and the flat maxima brackets are readily available(at least 1/2 dozen pair in my favorite junkyard). If they ever dry up, the fact that they are flat brackets means anyone with a bandsaw or torch can cut their own very easily without machine work or welding.

This would also give you a nice wide vented rotor in the rear, a good selection of readily available pads, and so on.

If someone doesn't do it soon I'm gonna have to find a spare strut and try it out myself!

 

 

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Morgan

http://z31.com/~morgan/s30

http://carfiche.com

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Actually, I thought about somehting this weekend, since I have been kind of worried about this brake problem. What about the Stainless Steel brakes kit for the disc conversion? The bracket for the caliper mounting looks flat, and the pattern is 5x4.5". Mike, What do you think? It has an E-brake provision, and good sized calipers. And the Rotors are vented. Should be able do something with that. I thought about it. Not much more than the swap you have, Mike. what do you think?

 

 

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http://zcar.netdojo.com

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couldnt find a street rod kit on their site..

and their site sucks for navigation!

couldnt even find calipers only ...

 

the rear kits are $700 and a single piston rear caliper, the z31 is better and a lot cheaper than that....

 

the other option is a vette 2 piston rear caliper? or similar

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guess i misprinted the top line.. i found the street kit but not individual pieces.

i looked at Baer and didnt see any thing better there for rears either with ebrake . not without going to a drum ebrake anyway. that could be done but a LOT of work to install you could use Z32 rear drum setup then....

that was what i was going to do to my car but left them off i have no ebrake at all...

 

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Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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Morgan,

 

I wrote to you a couple of weeks ago about this and the experimentation I was going to do, well my Z32 brakes parts finally arrived yesterday and I think I have some good news for you (I think). I had the salvage yard send me the entire braking system off of a 92 300ZX - front and rear ($300 with shipping). Let me first say, I haven't done the acid test yet but let me tell you what I do know at this point. The rear caliper fits the maxima bracket perfectly and the emergency brake is a small internal drum setup that uses the hat of the rotor as a drum - cool. The emergency drum (E.D.) pads are about 1" wide and about 8" long and naturally curved. I don't have the existing rear brake drum system pulled apart yet but I do have the stub axles pulled and lugs out except for one. Briefly, this morning I placed the new system next to the old and took some measurements. I have to say this system looks like a direct bolt on with very little modifications to make work. The small E.D. system uses a backing plate (most people toss) very similar to the old drum system. The new backing plate holds the little pads with springs and adjusts like a drum brake. The plate is held on by four bolts that also attach the maxima bracket. The new backing plate will have to be redrilled but no big deal (the four holes are not exactly the same dimensionally center to center as the existing ones on the 260). I had the salvage yard send me the emergency brake cables and hardware. At this time I have no idea if the existing cables will work or if I can use the 300ZX ones.

 

The calipers look stout to me and have raised embossed letters - Nissan. The rotors are a little over ¾" thick, vented and ~11 ¾" in diameter - not to bad at all. I need to have them turned but other than that seem to be perfect. I took some pictures of the parts and I will send them to you. I will hit it hard on Sunday and keep you posted if I hit some snags.

 

Danno260Z

 

P.S. The rotor does fit over the pilot bore perfectly (that raised area in the center of the stub axle) so no machining will be needed here. I used the one lug nut as a guide. I will also use the rotor as a guide (and transfer punch) to have the stub axle drilled out for the remaining 4 lug holes. This will be done by a friend who is a machinist using a drill press.

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