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5-lug conversion


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Guest Anonymous

I'm new to this forum (great info, BTW), so forgive me if I'm asking a question that has been answered before.

 

I want to convert from 4-lug to 5-lug wheels at the rear of my car. The current pieces I have are early 280z hubs/bearings/etc.

 

Does anyone know the best way to convert? I'm not too crazy about adapters, but I'll use them if I have to. I've also heard rumors that later model (280zx??) 5-lug parts might interchange. Is this true? What other options to I have?

 

Thanks in advance for any and all advice,

Mark in Tucson

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One member here sells the kit if you buy his brakes from him. I located a 5 lug rotor and am drilling the rear stub axles out myself. It is a simple process, but prepare to be at it for a bit and buy really good drill bits!

 

Simply knock all your existing studs out except one, bolt the disk in pplace with the remaining stud and a lug nut, and mark your holes with a centerpuch and drill away! Best way to do this is off the car with a drill press, but it can be done on the car!!

 

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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to the original question..

there is no 5 lug 280zx, there is a 5 lug 300 Z31 car in turbo models the rears willnot fit on a early car. although you can use the rotor. the front hubs off these cars is what i use on the fronts..

 

the easiest rear conversion is the 82-83 zx caliper with a 5 lug rotor, redrill and install arp studs and use a1.25" (approx) spacer to equal the front hub pattern.

if your so lucky to find the "maxima bracket" it will all bolt on.

i may be making them but havent gotten it together as of yet. you can find it all yourself or i sell pieces or complete.

the best calipers to use are 90-94 240sx rears.

 

 

------------------

Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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Easiest way to do it? Call up SCCA and have him ship the parts - convert to ARP studs while you're at it too. You will have to drill as Mike stated but I've done it and it's not too bad so long as you follow SCCA's instructions to the letter. He's done the research and th eparts through him are reasonable IMO. The hardest part is the bracket to hold the caliper on - presently we're being forced to weld on the hub, I personally would prefer a bolt-on mount. SCCA is researching this and many of us are hoping he's successful smile.gif

 

Oh, and this gives you rear disc brakes too. You didn't mention wnating them but to get 5 lug you'll wind up with them - a small sacrifice smile.gif

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SCCA/Mike should this swap be such a mystery? For your information I swapped several cars to larger studs a while back, so making the step to five lug isn't real hard.

If there is enough interest from folks on this site I'd be happy to write a tech article up for those who want to do the swap without the aid of any special tools or punches, including stud size, drill bit size and how each step is done. Mike, I didn't use your punch, and there is enough info on the web, via pictures and text, that I didn't need to see Jim's parts to do it, but it was a nice reference to see that I'll have to do something different for my brakes up front.

 

Mike

 

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited January 29, 2001).]

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Guest Anonymous

Yes, someone please post a tech article for the 5-lug conversion. It seems so straight forward but no one gives clear direct answers on how to do it other than buying some kit or adapter plates.

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who ever said it was hard?

 

the cheap way is a 1.4" spacer in the 4 runner conversion upgrade for the fronts and

redrilling the rear stub axles.

BTW i've seen someone redrill their stub axles without the aid of a centering punch and they drilled it off center.. can you say wobble.the wheel had a hell of a vibration.

 

 

Mike

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Originally posted by Mikelly:

 

If there is enough interest from folks on this site I'd be happy to write a tech article up for those who want to do the swap

 

Mike,

 

Do the Article, Do the Article, Do the Article, Do the Article, Do the Article. If you're still not sure what I'm trying to say then let me say it again...Do the Article.

 

There's always more than one way to skin a cat & the more ways we have to approach a subject the more informed & better off we are. Do the article!

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Heh, even WITH a punch I got one hole slightly off and had a bear of a time putting the rotor down onto the hub register. It did finally go but it was a little bit of work to do. Do this carefully and if you've got the ability to lathe a punch consider doing it or hit SCCA up for one. I think the wheel will spin true in the end, the rotor is sitting flat now.

 

/soapbox on

 

Now, could I have researched all of this and done it myself without SCCA's parts? Probably but why? He's done it. Sold the parts for a reasonable cost, and was there when I E-mailed him bunches(!) of questions. I have ZERO problem paying someone a fair price for some of their knowledge - just gophering the parts all up and sending them to me was helpful! I'm doing all 4 wheels BTW. Shipping was fair too, no handling charges or profit on shipping at all unlike some vendors. What's not to like? UPS guy shows up, I goto work on the car...

 

I've still got a little ways to go and want bolt-on brackets but what incentive does he have to do ANY of this if he makes nothing from it? Not all of us have ready access to a machine shop and some things are too expensive to have done onesy twoesy in shops all spread out across the planet. If MikeSCCA can have stuff done in a central shop for less and we reap the benefits of his labor more power to him! Hell, if I just had more TIME maybe I'd scrounge this stuff myself but TIME is the one thing I've NOT got these days.

 

I can understand everyone wanting to do things cheaply and maybe chaffing that someone doesn't freely give away what they've sweated to learn but how hard is to understand that this stuff isn't in a book and took work to develop?

 

Sharing is great if we ALL benefit. IMO I got a fair deal from SCCA on both the knowledge and the parts he sold me, hence my willingness to recommend him to others. Document all you want but let's at least recognize his effort and buy from him when what he offers is fair. I just get the feeling sometimes that folks want to go around other's hard work even when we're not being gouged. Would I pay $100 in profit for someone to figure something like this out (4wheels remember), support me when I need it, and gopher the parts up? Hell yes! I don't know what his profit was but it might not have even been that (shrug).

 

It's one thing when M*A repackages someone else's weather stripping and nearly doubles the cost, quite another to pay fairly. If we don't treat the folks who do us right nicely where will they be down the road? There are few enough people still in the Z community now - do we want still fewer?! Let's try to show our gratitude please...

 

/soapbox off smile.gif

 

FWIW - I only know SCCA from the many e-mails we've traded while I'vew whined with questions and he's helped me out. Not even spoken to him on the phone. I found his WEB site through Zcar many moons ago and discussed a brake upgrade with him before he even began posting here. I might have even been the one that pointed him over here! I owe him nothing but he's earned respect from me because he was responsive and I felt I was treated fairly. He's still plugging away trying to figure out even better upgrades and I think his knowledge is useful here - let's not all piss him off smile.gif

 

P.S. Alsil has the swap pretty well documented BTW. I didn't have to pull my stubs thank goodness! I had the strut out of the car for my drilling and what a bear it was until I listened to SCCA about bit selection leading up to the final size. I purchased my final bit from MSCDirect.com for like $13 - you'll need a half inch chuck (grr). Done right you don't need a super special drill bit and not using oil on the it actually helped per SCCA's advice.

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OK, OK time out...

 

First, I don't want people to think that I'm beating up on Mike/SCCA. Pete P. and I have discussed this at length and here is my personal view point on information and making money off it...

 

Mike/SCCA has a lot of time invested in researching his products. You know how much money he makes off coil over kits??? Trust me, it ain't much...about equal to the cost of shipping. Mike Has some real world experience put into his product choices. Now, me on the other hand.. I'm cheap. I like deals, I'm addicted to them and if I can get a steal on something or fab something up that works on my own, I'm as proud as a new daddy. When I need info and I know Mike/SCCA has it but won't give it up... I get frustrated. Does that make him a BAD GUY...NO, Does that make me any less frustrated? No. He is being a good business man, nothing more, nothing less.

 

Sounds like the tech article referenced above is covering the bases. I'll check it out and if it hits the mark on what I did and I can add no further value to it, then we'll all just reference that one and I'll finish up on the fuel cell tech article for the magazine!

 

And for the record... I just spent $900 buying brakes from Mike/SCCA. You know why? Jim (BLKMGK) covered it in his post above.

 

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Swatt,

Rest assured... the tone of this board will not change anytime soon. It is this way for one reason, mutual respect of everyone here. Global harmony in the Zcar community would be ideal, but I'll settle for my own private idaho right here!

 

Mike

 

------------------

http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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By the way, like I said on my site, you don't have to do a disc brake swap to do this conversion - just have your local machine shop drill out your drums for you. Same process as the disc - except that the machine shop with a press on a radius - much easier for them to do that way than measure the whole damned thing. Also, I didn't drill mine myself, I had it done - but that's because I really couldn't get it to go straight (might have been because it was 8am and I was barely awake) but if you have any doubts about drilling it - send it to the machine shop. Better that than spending the money for new stub axles - and starting over!

 

AL

 

 

------------------

http://zcar.netdojo.com

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wow smile.gif everyones been busy....

 

basically i do tell how to do the conversion.. if someone wants to locate all their own parts they can.. i'm not hiding what i use.. i did tell everyone to use 90-94 240sx calipers ....

 

as for the fronts most people dont have access to a huge metal lathe so offering up the dimensions to stuff i make is somewhat pointless..

the "real" fact is there just is no real cheap way to get good brakes. even the 4runner requires a spacer (unless you use washers) and to go to 5 lug requires a 1.3" spacer from 6" billet. this isnt something you going to get from the local pick-n-pull.

or make at home...

 

its not like there's a part from another car that will work for this application..

rx7, nsx, mustang etc.. nothing will work easy. ANYTHING can be made to fit. i have Z32 stuff on my car but i would NOT do it over.. i'd way rather have the outlaw stuff than the 300 stuff.. but at the time i wasnt a dealer for outlaw and the 300 seemed like the cheapest / best alternative...

 

as far as coilovers there is no other way to do it other than just buck up and buy the parts so that definitely isnt something i'm limiting the info on.. i try to help when i can.. there's been more than one person call for "support" and i always help if i can.

 

thats all... thanks for the support .. i'm really looking forward to driving my car with the SDS this spring!

maybe i'll see some of youat Shasta..

 

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

I also was not meaning to bash SCCA or anyone else for that matter. I am just in a search for more knowledge and just as Mikelly said, if someone has the knowledge I want and won't tell me, it's frustrating. SCCA has every right to make money off of his hard work and the research and time he's put in to figuring out the swap. It's just I know this swap can be done by oneself for cheap and this is first post I've seen on ALL the Zcar websites where someone has said how to do it. If someone doesn't have the money this is the perfect thing for them. I might do some of the stuff on my own but I will in all likelyness end up buying a lot of stuff from SCCA. One of the things I love about this board is the free sharing of information and everyone being able to learn from others accomplishments and mistakes. I for myself hope to figure out the Z32 LSD swap and make a step by step tech article on how to do it and fabricate all parts neccessary because I know this is something that a ton of people want. Enough of my ramblings. I think this is the best board for mature exchange of thoughts and opinions on the internet and hope it stays that way.

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Guys, I think I owe at least a few of you an apology. I'm not sure exactly what set me off but I think my tone was quite a bit too strong! I wasn't meaning to point fingers and I guess maybe something just sort of made me snap - I'm sorry.

 

The tech article mentioned does do a pretty good job of it. Someone might want to hunt up the part numbers for the studs from ARP and I did manage to do mine with the strut onthe bench. Perhaps a few pics if someone who's in the middle of this copnversion could snap them. Mine's already drilled smile.gif Do watch the little metal dust cover looking things that are aorund the stock studs. It doesn't drill easily and I had to hold mine with a vise grip to drill it. If it bends too much it rubs when th ehub spins - I left my stub axles in the hubs but might pull them to powdercoat the strut if it's not too hard.

 

Oh, and the front hubs drill MUCH easier than the rears! Not sure what it's made of but it drilled real nice for the ARPs using the 300ZX's old holes as pilots.

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