Metallicar Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 Getting ready for my install of the 1982 Turbo Engine in to my 1977. I have and want to install all of the stock components for now. So I have removed all of the goodies from the donor car. I have been tracing out the wiring for the famous three plugs, using the Haynes Wiring Diagrams for the 1982 280ZX Turbo. Does this look right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 I'm still staring at the Haynes Wiring Diagram, trying to derive a Turbo Swap Wiring Diagram. How am I doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 have you read this article? http://www.yadamnfool.com/turbo_z_conversion/s130_zxt_to_s30_z.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 Yes, I did read the article. I also printed it out and took it to the garage, compared it to my donor (a 1982) and well, my brain started to hurt. I am feeling much better now. I think my schematic is now accurate. I was hoping that I could get some input or advice, one way or the other. I am almost ready to do the swap. My plan is to swap in all of the stock components, (uhh, not all of the stock stuff- no a/c- no fuel modulator- no boost sensor- no egr- no vacuum pump with all of it's conglomeration of valves and electrics). Drive the car. That's day one. Day two, install the same side in/out intercooler. Drive the car, Maybe over the winter, I will do it all over again, installing either the Z31 stuff or go aftermarket. Depends on my brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 I just put the turbo FI wiring harness in my 280ZX. Once I drop the engine in tonight or tomorrow I'll be at the point where I have to wire some of this extra little stuff up. I hope it goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted July 7, 2006 Author Share Posted July 7, 2006 I just put the turbo FI wiring harness in my 280ZX. Once I drop the engine in tonight or tomorrow I'll be at the point where I have to wire some of this extra little stuff up. I hope it goes well. It's 3 days later, now. How are you doing? I would like to hear it's in, running, and burning up tires!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 The FI is plugged in, vacuum lines ran, fuel lines on, intake just about in. I still have to hook up a temporary exhaust, get the alternator in there, radiator, and then look into the wiring. So basically I have not yet gotten to the ECU wiring yet. I've had a few other things going on that has kept my work time on the car down quite a bit. Also, I was reminded of this website http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/ there is a wiring diagram further down the page. http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/my_schematic.tif by the battery I just looked at the colors of the wires and spliced them into the NA plug to match colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Plug 2: ignitor plug (YW) to YW wire on coil ignitor connection Plug 2: Yellow wires to ignition switch, connected to single blade wire by NA ecu (280zx) that has power when key is on I then ran the + and - NA coil wires to the + and - coil wires on the turbo harness. I stuffed the extra NA wires into that hidden tunnel inside the fender. It fired right up. I think I have a vacuum leak though but I drove the car and it boosts all the time and idles high. I still need to install the turbo fuel pump. But the wiring was easy. This is a 1983 280ZX turbo engine into a 1982 280ZX NA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 Very cool! congrats! So, the vacuum leak, gotta a gut feeling where it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 two things, the throttle linkage was slightly different so I had to move the gas pedal stopper back to allow the car to idle lower. The vacuum leak was the BOV. The stupid thing was opening all the time. It would open and then the idle would go down and then it would close. The idle would go up a little and it would open... I took the BOV off and it runs much better. Idles pefect but the engine does not run perfect. I get massive popping out the intake. Adjusting the distributor base doesn't help either way. The car only is drivable under 2K rpm and at only 1/4 throttle or less. In neutral it revs a little better but will still pop if you get on the pedal too much. When it pops the power just falls flat. I can't accelerate hard if I wanted to. I think this means it is running lean. does that sound right? I can still hear that turbo spooling. (I have no boost gauge right now, running the NA 280ZX gauges still) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Lean could mean vac leak or low fuel flow or pressure. The turbo fuel pump and the N/A pump are the same part number I think. Your not using the fuel pump modulator are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 No, the fuel pump modulator (above the turbo ECU) was not used at all. I'm just using the factory 280ZX NA relays. The turbo ECU wired into it by the battery and it powers on as usual. I swapped in the 'turbo' fuel pump but that made no noticable difference. I was under the impression the turbo cars had a higher flowing pump. So what I ended up doing is advancing the ignition timing as far as I could. That solved my poping problem, mostly. It drives pretty good now but lacks power under boost... I really need to get a timing light and a fuel pressure gauge now to tune this further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I connected the cold start wire to constant power to enrich the fuel mixture all the time. That got rid of my intake backfires and added all kinds of power under boost. So the problem is that the system runs lean. I'll swap the FPR and check my AFM. I have no pressure guage for the fuel line... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Plug 2: ignitor plug (YW) to YW wire on coil ignitor connectionPlug 2: Yellow wires to ignition switch' date=' connected to single blade wire by NA ecu (280zx) that has power when key is on [don't connect!'] I then ran the + and - NA coil wires to the + and - coil wires on the turbo harness. I stuffed the extra NA wires into that hidden tunnel inside the fender. It fired right up. That second yellow wire that goes to ignition is the cold start wire. Do not connect to constant power or the car runs too rich! Only connect it to the START position or tie right in at the starter solinoid wire if going into an S30. My car starts instantly without it though so it is optional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Just as a followup to my turbo 'pop' problem... it was a boost leak. Leak mainly at the base of the injectors. I didn't have those two-piece holders set in there right to squeeze the upper o-ring. Once I swapped to the larger black one-piece plastic injector holders the car ran perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J240ZTurbo Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 hi, on the coil where does black, blue and yellow connect to + or -? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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