Metallicar

I am curious about this subject too. I am getting closer to begining the interior work. I am on the east coast even though this is going on my car

I used Rustoleum Satin Black. It is very hard to scratch or chip, cleans easily, fingerprints and rubs do not show readily. Two years and 40,000 miles later it still looks great. This is an early picture:

That does look like an early corvette color. I had a 46 Ford Convertible painted that color, in 1976!

Try Lowes. The one in Philadelphia just closed out all of the 7 1/2 hp 60 gallon units for $100.00! They could not sell them for $499.00 , so they "dumped" them. U.S. Made Cast Iron 5 year Warranty Go into the store and ask the Manager for the best deal he can make, if they are not priced right.

Looks Great! For the edges look at page 3620 @ http://www.mcmaster.com/ Maybe part number 8451A55

I use the aluminum kit in my lincoln 135 from time to time. I actually made some aluminum windows for a customer's roof house. They did turn out very well, in spite of the fact that I do not weld on a daily basis. It is fairly easy to install and then uninstall the special liner and wheels as needed. Double check the polarity, keep the hose as straight as you can so the soft alum wire does not slow down or kink. You can do it, it is as easy or as hard as everything else you have done so far.

Rustoleum makes an epoxy primer. You can order thru a good paint store or even WWGrainger.

Not me, I'm gonna carve then in stone! Well, maybe ascii files anyway. Don't throw away old knowledge - share it. The stone you cut, may be your own. Nothing wrong with old school anything is there?

If you are buying that... Then you may as well crush you old technology car and buy a new one. Look, I really liked Ernie's posts. I was always lurking here, reading everything he wrote. I would log on to this site a few times a day looking to see if he would post anything new. I would also check other site he has been know to post also. I really miss this. But there is something very wrong with what has happened to his posts. He deemed them "out-of date"? Come on, he effed us.

Well, that's just great, everything just went out the window. No more will I be able to learn from the experienced master. I will now get the info from some johnny come lately sales rep. They have been beating down the door with any and everything to replace the standards that have been in use for the past two decades. I'm gonna go shoot Fido now, becuase the new puppy has learned a new trick. Fido was such a good dog. It's a shame, his tricks were just "out-of date".

How is Ernie? Did he finish his book? Why are all of his techincal posts reduced to a [.]?

Bringing this thread back to life. Tabco called me today! They have just finished making the back ordered parts! From my request February 28th 2007! WOW great customer service:icon56:. Gee, 9 months later, what a gestation period for a couple of body parts!

I bought a pipe cutter that cuts up to 3" OD at a yard sale - $5. Just needed a good cleaning and some oil. It does cut soft pipe fairly well. If you just lightly tighen the wheels as you rotate the cutter, it will not crush the pipe.

Here is a thread with some help I hope: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108261&highlight=racerx I'm looking for more....

That gun works well for thick rustproofing matter, like milkshake thick. Not for regular paint. The nozzle end has large oriface, you might be able to exchange for a smaller one. Perhaps fill the tip with epoxy and redrill with an oriface drill.

For the inside of rocker boxes and rails after installation, I would go this route: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1119&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=1119 I have used rattle cans in the past for spraying the inside of boxes and rockers. A little messy and a little uncertain, since one cannot see in the closed up areas. I swap out the nozzle from a WD-40 can (that uses the little red straw) with the spray paint can nozzle, and spray away with the paint until it is dripping out the seams. After 24 hours (or more) has passed, I would fog the inside with WD-40 or other type of spray oil. Back to the original question of Zero-Rust or Epoxy Primer, I am wondering also the answer to this. I may have to search the RacerX archives. I know he highly recommend Zero-rust over every other "rust paint", and that was good enough for me to buy a gallon of it, which I still have to use. I am about 2 more loads in the sandblaster ready for it now. Edit: uughhh.. I just did a search for posts by RacerX. I knew he left, but I did not know he took his information with him! It seems every post of his talent was eliminated on 6-30-07. Crap, I should have saved his stuff offline, instead of relying on the forum. I just received a new Eastwood Catalog in the mail, they have a new line of paint. Thier own private label. The paint line includes epoxy primer, 2K primer, and of course urethane colors & clear. All priced not much more than Rustoleum!

It looks 180 degrees off:

Look carefully along both right and left edges, probably on the left edge, near where the hood meets the left access lid, you will see a stamped manufacturers mark and " made in _ _ _ _". The stamp will be faint. The last one I saw, I swear the first time I saw it it looked like the stamp read SH_T inside a picture of a gear.

Here you go: http://www.blastcoat.com/sys-tmpl/door/

I use sand from Home Depot also. Less than $3 per #50 bag. Before I put the sand in the hopper I run thru this: I don't remember what size the holes are. I merely found a drill bit that would "fill" the nozzle on the gun. Believe me, drilling all of those holes in the bucket takes less time than finding the clog in the blaster. Since I started passing the sand thru this sieve, I have not had one clog yet. I also sweep up the sand and use it 3 or 4 more times. I stop re-using it, once is starts to get too dusty. The dust is a slow killer! Wear a good dust mask. I wear a cheap paper one over a good one. This may make it a little harder to breathe thru, but it makes the good filter last longer. Use sand outside if possible. I am fortunate enough I can get up to one air change every two minutes in my home booth. Okay I know silica sand is bad for your lungs, I would guess everything but air is. So if you still want to find what you want look here: http://www.thomasnet.com/

The seller may have a history of misdeeds. I had been involved in one auction that was suspect, it did not sit well with me. No doubt the guy had some good stuff for sale.

It's a shame it has become a parts car. I am in the middle of saving a '73 that is in about as bad a shape. I just did not have the guts (or money) to do two of these projects at one time. Oh well, saving one and losing one helps drive the values up. I wish old_guy99 the best. I just hope he stops outbidding me!

Sorry, that I am coming to this thread late in the process. I want to warn you, that brake fluid will make the bed liner peel off verrry easily ( I found out the hard way too!). Just one small leak or overfill from you clutch or brake master would be a cosmetic disaster. As you may have already learned, the Por-15 finish is much easier to maintain and keep clean than the bed liner, for you engine bay application. In any case... The only way the bedliner would have longevity, would be to install as recommended by the manufacturer. That means you need to scuff the surface with a minimum of 60 grit to give the bed liner some "tooth". This would defeat the use of the Por-15 underneath if you were to scratch the ♥♥♥♥ out of it to allow the bed-liner to stick. Bed liner likes to stick to raw metal best.

Here is a link to address your original lead question: http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4994 In making repairs to areas with pinholes or old lead, I found a thread on autobodystore's rust repair forum suggesting Dynahair, another recommending All Metal filler. Every suggestion ( at autobodystore's forum) comes down to; use a layer of the waterproof filler and then a layer of your favorite finish filler like Rage Gold or Rage Extreme. Another good link: http://autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml Sorry, I cant help you choose what West Product, but I guess you are on the right track with the low density stuff, since you will probably top coat it with a finer filler anyway.

I must confess, it was me bidding on 909. I bid the opening bid of $250.00 before the seller put up pictures. I was relieved someone out bid me in the last 10 minutes of the auction and got it for $255.00 It's funny that the bidders names did not show up, since he had no reserve. The ebay rule is if the reserve is more than a certain dollar amount, the bidders names are private.