Mikelly Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Got my rear stub axles from Zbarn yesterday, along withe the rear rotors from Mike/SCCA. Gonna drop the stub axles off at the machine shop today to get them Shotpeened and magnafluxed, and holes for fivelug drilled. I should have the rear of the car buttoned up by the weekend if I can get the Axle nuts in by Friday! Next week I'll be in St. Louis all week, so I'll have to wait until I get back that following weekend to finish up the floor pans and roll cage.. Had a problem with my gun feeding and the gas mix is wrong, regulator to a sh*t, so this evening I'll be at the ARCET Supply store getting different gas mix and a good regulator. Also ordering the front clip from MAS when I get back from St. Louis. Car should be able to be started by the end of March, and hopefully driven by the end of April...Still on schedule! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 dont know what you use for gas -- but you should use a 75/25 argon co2 mix. use .030 wire as well... some people use straight co2 as its cheap. but more likely to make ugly welds. its ok for thick plate not this thin stuff.. now i have 2 migs.. just bought a new miller 185 true blue.. expensive but now i can weld 1/4" in a single pass.. and a century 110 with spot/stitch for bodywork.. MIke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 21, 2001 Author Share Posted February 21, 2001 Yup, I'm gonna do a 75/25 mix for the cage tubing, but I'm gonna get a second bottle for a 50/25/25 of Argon/02/ and something else I heard of for thin sheet metal welding. I also need a good gage/ regulator! I think I'm using .024 wire though... feeds better... Mine is a Lincoln SP125. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 I've gotten decent looking welds using straight CO2, it works for thin stuff too. The argon is more expensive, some people like it better, the thing I'm not found of is the sputtering (almost could be described as a buzzing) noise it makes and that it seems to throw more sparks and molten metal than straight C02. It probably is a bit cleaner of a weld with Argon. Just a observation and opinion of course. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 22, 2001 Author Share Posted February 22, 2001 I'm currently running straight 02 and it is throwing more crap than weld and I tested the footer of a door bar I welded in that looked like it had good penetration.... Broke clean off and the weld.. I'm absolutely gonna get this sorted out...Got distracted last night buying some work clothes and a drill press, which is too small for most of my work, but for $90 on sale.... Oh well! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 ask the welding store to explain it.. i know that the straight co2 will work for all welding but for sheetmetal its not as good a shield as the 75/25 mix.. i only use one bottle this mix.. seems to do well with all aspects.. Mike.. you might want to consider upping the wire dia. to the .030 for the cage work.. as .023 cant run a lot of heat thru it... i have 2 spools of wire (33lbs ea) i run the .023 ONLY for sheet metal and use .030 for everything else... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Mike, I tend to agree with SCCA, I have had much better welds with the .030 wire. The 75/25 mix seems to work well for just about everything. If you are having problems with the wire feed check to make sure the welder is set up for that specific wire. You are more than welcome to my instruction booklet on the SP125. I experienced a few problems with my wire feed as well, a few adjustments and it works perfectly. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rick Johnson Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 How do you feel about your SP125? Is it worth the extra cost over the Weld Pak 135 (or whatevever)versions that sell for less. I am currently looking for a Mig set up. I am borrowing a friends Weld Pak 100 but have trouble seeing the weld suposedly because he does not have the bottle, instead relying on innershield wire. What do you think?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 The difference in wire sizes relates to the material your welding. Thicker material, Thicker wire. More fill is required for bigger welds/Thicker materials hence thicker wire. As SCCA pointed out too the larger wire allows more amperage to be used which is required for thicker materials. FWIW. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 Rick, I REALLY like my SP125. I really had not done any welding in ~15 years and that was stick welding and my experience was very limited. So far I have done quite a bit of sheet metal repair (well, rust repair) and the SP125 has done well. The thing I like about the SP125 over the Weld Pak 100 is there is a greater range of adjustability on your amperage. I believe the Weld Pak only has four settings. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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