Last 280zx master swap issues fixed

[240playtoy]

A good while ago I swapped my brakes to front toyota 4x4 calipers and 240sx calipers w/ appropriate disks. Also added the 280zx MC. After excessive brake bleeding, I hunted down the fact that my reaction disk fell out in my old booster (thread) and replacing with a new booster, my pedal would drop 3-5" before any resistance. I heard a lot of hissing coming from the booster area. Hours of searching later, I found that several people had had bad rebuilt MC's and they made hissing noises. So I purchased a $30-$40 rebuilt MC for replacement from Autozone (lifetime warrantee for insurance against crappy rebuilds). More searching later, found some people had adjusted the actuating rod (between booster and MC). I check mine out before going thru the trouble of removing and replacing my "defective" MC. Measured up my old MC plunger depth and the 280zx depth. This is what I found.

 

As was done by others, I had to adjust my rod. My hissing is gone and the pedal is rock hard and has <1" of travel before engaging. Evidently my excessive bleeding of my brakes had removed all the bubbles. Time to license my car!!

[J__]

how do u adjust the rod? is it a screw that adjusts it? i have to do the same thing when i swap my mc

[240playtoy]

there's a piece similar to an acorn nut on the end that threads into the rod. I believe it needs a 7mm wrench. I held the shaft with needle nose pliers and loosened the treaded rod. After it was loosened, you can thread it out with your fingers.

[J__]

sweet. thnx for the info