QWKDTSN Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 Okay guys.. I'm in the middle of my rear suspension rebuild. Front end went great. I slacked off a bit, but I'm getting some real work done in good time on the rear. I'll definitely be done by the time the West Coast Nats roll around, and will probably have my carbs rebuilt and tuned, with headers and exhaust (yeah, still the straight six, but it's fun for now). Spindle pins were knocked out in ten minutes each with no heat, only Liquid Wrench and the sacrifice of a 5" long 3/8" socket extension (used it as a drift, mushroomed the end, better it than the threads of the pin). Just got both springs and strut cartridges pulled. Heat-transfer oil was present in the rear, as opposed to the front, where there was nothing. I stripped the drum brakes to the backing plate and was about to pull the hubs when I realized that these use the same kind of nuts as on my friend's 510 (which we completely stripped to bare chassis in the progress of turning it into a high-$ racecar). You know, the kind which are banged on two sides to hold them onto flats on the axle's threads? My restoration manual says that I have to bang the nuts the opposite way in order to pull them. My Haynes manual didn't really say anything other than "Remove nut," as usual. Would banging these things out to remove them really be worth it? The bearings have zero play and are very smooth. The car was restored by its second owner in 1984-85 and very probably had its suspension rebuilt by a mechanic when it was owned by its third owner. All the nuts and bolts look pretty much new and aren't rusted, and the way the spindle pins came out makes me think that it was all definitely rebuilt. The bearings don't really seem like they need a rebuild yet. I guess I'd just like to strip it as far as I can before putting it back together, and I don't want to inconvenience Eric, the guy who's sectioning my struts, by having the heavy hubs/bearings/brake backing plate on there. Is it a tough job? looks like it would be to me Thanks a lot. I love the suspension knowledge this forum has Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 26, 2001 Share Posted March 26, 2001 I know this is going to freak a bunch of people out, me saying this, but if they were replaced in the mid 80s and feel fine, AND you have no reason to take the stubs out (say to drill them for 5 lug), then JUST LEAVE THEM IN. I'd think whoever is working on the parts wouldn't mind that much. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 27, 2001 Share Posted March 27, 2001 Heh, I even drilled mine for 5lug with the stubs still in! I've decide to leave them alone for now even though one of the dust shield on the stub is rubbing some - I figure it'll clearance itself My fingers are crossed that Mike's new rear bracket to mount Outlaws and Willwood spots doesn't require stub removal - we'll see. It might be unavoidable.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted March 27, 2001 Share Posted March 27, 2001 1) If it aint broke dont fix it! 2) You're there/got it torn down: why not 3) You dont want to ever have to go thru that again 4) The bearings were probably done by the previous owner as easily as those pins came out! 5) Eh....there isnt a "5". I replaced all my bshngs & had to use heat/my car had 160k on it & the rear pins had never been replaced. I had to use a lot of heat on it & luckily didnt fry the probably little remaining grease in the sutb axle/bearing housing. That was about 15k miles ago & no noise yet (Knock Knock on wood). You're the only one that can really decide if you want to go thru the trouble again of tear down if a rear stub/axle brng begins making noise. If I had to do it all over again I probably would have gone thru my stub axles; my car is my daily driver so I had to do mine ASAP & ran out of time as I also did my brakes/Struts at the same time. Weigh the pro's & the con's then make your decision. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted March 27, 2001 Author Share Posted March 27, 2001 Thanks, guys. I decided not to teardown. I took the struts in to Eric at Dave Turner Motorsports down here in San Diego today. If you ever have a chance to work with this guy, he's cool. Seems to have lots of experience and is charging me $20/strut to section and build. Seems like a little much for a couple of cuts and some welding, but Dave wants Eric to charge me $80/strut! I've got no cutting/welding experience so I'll let a professional do that sort of thing. I won't be upgrading to rear discs anytime, so I just won't worry about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 27, 2001 Share Posted March 27, 2001 To have an experienced person section strut tubes, even $80/strut is not outrageous, IMO. I usually don't mind paying a little bit more for experience. I wish I had places like Dave's near me! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted March 27, 2001 Share Posted March 27, 2001 I agree; Welding doesnt take a Rocket Scientist....but it does take SKILL! I dont have that skill nor the patience to fine-hone it. I've tried welding before & my weld joints look like something the Medical Profession would attempt to amputate! I dont mind paying a little more when it comes to a pro-welder whose cuts/welds I know will not compromise the strength of whatever part they are welding. JMHO. Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Not Pro-Welding" Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 27, 2001 Share Posted March 27, 2001 > I wish I had places like Dave's near me! Pete, There's gotta be a 1/4 or 1/2 mile dirt track near your home. Go to one of the events, walk through the infield, and ask who the best fabricator is. Find that guy, talk with him, buy him a beer, and you've found your local shop. ------------------ John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 27, 2001 Share Posted March 27, 2001 There are a few tracks, I'm sure. I just haven't looked into that angle. There are a few drag racers I know locally that have connections. It'd be nice to find a shop that did road race stuff though. Most of the stuff around here is dirt and drag oriented, that I know of. I should do just taht though, although I do 95% of my own work. I was really referring to Dave being a knowledgeable and very approachable fellow in the Z fabrication field. Not too many Z modifiers around here that have a business. The only Z oriented shop is a guy that is really only into restorations and hates V8Zs. Plus his prices are astronomical. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.