OlderThanMe Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 Well here I go. I am looking at my options for my next engine. I want to stay L series and go turbo. My longblock budget is pretty good to say the least. I want the motor be drivable. Maybe 350hp @~12psi for the street with the ability to go much higher. I have heard things about the F54 block as well as the early 280 block. They are both "stronger"...F54 because of webbing and early N42 because of siamesed cylinders. Anyways here is what I am looking at doing. 3.0 stroker, 8.1:1 or 8.5:1 or lower compression. JE dished pistons or the like (not sure about how much dish), not quite sure about rods. Probably some 2.4 rods for better crank/stroke ratio but I have a set of 2.6/2.8 rods. LD crank. lightening, polishing, magnafluxing, cryo treating..what would be worth my money and what can I do myself? I am pretty open to any head to use. Most likely a holset turbo or a t3/t4 if I can...those are a bit expensive though. I want to have high enough compression to spool early but low enough to where I can run a good bit of boost. Megasquirt, possibly with edis-6, Crank trigger, GN coil pack. Intake? pretty open on that. Exhaust? probably stock manifold until I can have a header built (I am designing one) , 3-3.5" pipe. Right now the slate is wide open. I invite and look forward to sugestions from you. I am about half-way done with the suspension (coilovers and illuminas are in but camber plates and proper top hats are still to come), 11lb Spec flywheel, have a broken in clutch that will hold upto 265 hp... I would like to see different combinations people have used and combos people are thinking of using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 350 @ 12psi might be a bit much. One thing is for sure, a worked P90 and FLAT TOP forged pistons for the best quench and off boost response is what I'd go for, with around 8.5:1 compression and a metal headgasket and o-ringed block. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 11, 2006 Author Share Posted August 11, 2006 Thanks. I was just putting out some random number. I am looking at a LD28 crank and I think flattops would be a little high on compression even with a 2 mm head gasket. I have been reading through my "how to rebuild and modify your nissan ohc engine" book and it has lots of information but is slightly dated. I have also looked at KA24E forged pistons and they can be had for about $550 with wrist pins and rings. The JE pistons with no gap rings are $800 and I think they are worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 For the horsepower levels you're shooting for, ANY L6 block will work fine including the P30 2.4L block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 Hm. That makes me think. So I could to turbocharge my P30 block and put all the turbo stuff on it? Maybe I could just do that while building F54 block. Haven't heard much at all about doing this to an early block. I basically have a stroked l24...the L26. I have three head bolts that snaped off above the deck surface but I am not sure about my crank's condition. Something had to make that noise I was getting. If the crank is warped it could make a bearing go bad. Here is a vieo of the noise. I stripped the the my engine down to crank, front cover, and block and did not see anything obviously wrong. My wrist pins and connecting rods looked like they had a lot of movement side-to-side (front to rear of engine). I would like over 400hp one day but I may as well just use my current block as JohnC says... I'll get my crank out this week and then have it checked for straightness. It seems as there has been an oiling problem with the #3 cylinder which is what caused my noise problem and the large score mark in the #3 bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 What I meant is that if you go with forged pistons, get them in flat tops, they are custom anyways so you can dictate pretty much any compression with them. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 ok. I see what you mean. I can get them milled to any dish once I have them. I'll try to figure out today what was making that noise on my block. Once I figure that out I can see if I can reassemble the shortblock. I can always test out eveything on my current block and if something goes boom it won't be on an expensive engine. Obviously I'll need a better pressure plate once I crank the power toward 300 so that will be a consideration to take into mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 I'll be following this one, I'm curious how you are going to go about it. I'm doing the ghetto turbo option, everything used/fabricated. I'm more concerned with being functional than pretty. So far I've got my pulsar GTiR intercooler ($40), Garrett t-04 ($50), and SSautochrome wastegate ($100), and I bought a t4 split inlet flange from ebay to use with the header flange I cut off an old header to build my own turbo manifold. I've got my stock unknown mileage n42 block with a slightly newer P79 head that just has new gaskets and seals. Hopefully my megasquirt will go on this week and I can get my fuel injection sorted out before it's time for boost. We'll have to compare notes on the manifold design, I've got some ideas, but I have to balance my poor welding skills against my lofty fabrication goals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 I just have drawings of exhaust manifolds so far. Nothing in Solidworks just yet. I drew more N/A manifolds that look really good. I may want to come up with a front mount turbo so I can use shorter intake tubes. There is not much room to play with between the intake, strut tower, frame rail, and steering linkage. I may steal the vacuum cleaner hose and use it to guestimate on allowed space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 well I have been searching around and it looks like a couple of people have used an E88/F54 combo and since I have a late E88 and just need the short block I have been looking at this combo. I was planning on getting the head highly modified anyway so the larger valves and porting/polishing are already in the plan. I would just need the intake runners to get drilled for EFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Just get a stock L28ET engine in good shape. You can easily get 350HP (crank) on a stock long block at 12-15psi. Spend your $ on a good turbo, intercooler, 3" exhaust, 370cc/min or bigger injectors, and engine management. If you can't find a good used engine, then I'd go with any L28 block and the Arizona Z car forged flat tops that use the 9mm L24 rods. You will need to bore to 87mm. Run a P90 (solid lifter) head with just a fresh valve job and resurfacing. Keep the stock cam, as it is fine for your HP goals. Use a 2mm NISMO gasket with 3 coats of copper spray. Run an engine management system that allows complete timing control. If you are good at wiring, Megasquirt is a good option. If not, I'd suggest an aftermarket unit. My preference is the Wolf34 v4.0 from WolfEMS as I've installed a number of them and they are easy to tune, and work great. For the most part, boring, stroking, cams, head work, are not required for the HP levels you want to achieve. I've tuned a number of L28ETs with stock internals using the above suggested mods, and they make well over 300WHP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 My main thing for this low (for hybridZ) power level is knowing my drivetrain will go boom if I go much higher. I will eventualy get the L28 motor and build it but I figure I can get started on my L26 and if I blow it up, so what? If it blows then I just blew up an engine that was the red-headed stepchild of them all. then the built block can go in and just run LOW boost until I can afford the rest of the drivetrain. Megasquirt is what I am going to use since I can solder really good and my Dad is an Electrical Engineer it will be no problem for us to build the system. Turbo... looking at a holset HY35 or HX40... still undecided as of yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 you want the HY .. not the HX .. the HX spools slower i get full boost in 5th gear around 3,500-3,900RPM sooo an HX would suck on the streets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 yeah...I thought that about the HX. Your car has a pretty clean turbo setup...plus it sounds great! Can't imagine doing a motor swap in the street like you did though. (parents not likeing my engine taking up the WHOLE garage...uh-oh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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