Mikelly Posted May 2, 2001 Share Posted May 2, 2001 Some of us were discussing the Bump Steer issue at the show and the many ways people deal with bumpsteer in their Zs. Everyone is aware of stiffening suspension, blocks under the strut housing, and the JTR mod of re-drilling holes in the Xmember. But what if you could de-couple the tie rod end and make it height adjustable seperately from the rest of the control arm/ strut tube assembly? Another idea would be having the option to raise or lower the steering rack... Before you guys go crazy on me, I have nothing on paper for this, only ideas in my head... Feedback please! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: ...Before you guys go crazy on me, I have nothing on paper for this, only ideas in my head..Feedback please, Mike If only I could be one of those voices in Mike's head; I may be the most ignorant voice in his head...you know-the one that always goes "Huuuh?" but at least the other voices would quickly bring me up to par. Keep the ideas coming Mike-always interesting to hear what you have to say. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 The homer simpson voice that says "did I say that out loud?" "Doh.." , Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 "OK brain, I don't like you and you don't like me, but get me through this, and I'll go back to slowly killing you with beer." - Homer Simpson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 my front crossmember has been modified by raising front control arm bolt holes about 1" and out .75".the control arms bolt on almost behind ball sockit on rack.the tie rond ends have been heated slowly and the kink straightened out-this makes everything run straight to spindle.i dont use those bump steer spacer things.when i change camber with camber plates i get very little toe change-and it goes toe out.perfect for auto x.on the crossmember i got some big fender washers from osh and welded them in like oem reinforcments for control arm bolt holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 Mike... This is precisely what I was advocating in the previous bumpsteer posts. If you replace the stock tie rod end with a Heim joint rod end, you can do the bumpsteer adjustment independently of the other suspension settings, by using spacers between the Heim joint and the steering knuckle. The adjustable steering rack height idea would work in the same manner, but I'm guessing that it would be harder to implement, especially since you need to have seperate adjustment on the right and left sides. To my knowlege, ALL of the other methods of changing bumpsteer are coupled to other suspension geometry aspects (roll center, camber gain, etc), and require tradeoffs to be made. (you just knew I'd respond to this, huh?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 3, 2001 Author Share Posted May 3, 2001 Yes Tim, I was kinda baiting you...In a good way. OK, So you use a rod end/ Heim Joint, spacers and a bolt through the steering knuckle??? I'll check my sources and see what I can come up with as far as tie rod ends... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 Raising / lowering the steering rack is mentioned in the book "How to make your car handle" as a method of dealing with bump steer. Shims can be used with some rack mountings. Others may be more difficult to adjust. My plan is to update my car (eventually!) with a power steering rack, and I'll be sure to make new, adjustable, mountings if clearances will allow it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 i've rethreaded the stock z rack before to standard thread.. then you use a alum hex stock for the actual length and another heim on the hex stock end for toe adj... then you can do as the racers--- use "bump steer spacers" by spacing the heim at the knuckle till its in the correct plane. you cant ever go back to stock as you need to drill out the knuckle to 5/8" for the heim bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 4, 2001 Author Share Posted May 4, 2001 So Mike, you just re-die the thread to 5/8 18 Left thread??? Hell, that almost sounds too easy.... What length is the hexstock??? I'm laizy tonight or I would go measure the unit laying on the garage floor... Maybe I could start converting these for people???? Wouldn't cost me a lot to do that and matterials wouldn't be too expensive... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 9, 2001 Share Posted May 9, 2001 Sounds like you guys are advocating the way that Griggs Racing's bumpsteer kit for Mustangs work. A picture can be seen here: http://www.griggsracing.com/ART/frontcoilover.jpg The one thing that's missing in this picture (in the spacer stack) is a large washer just in case the heim joint should fail and the nut at the bottom gets pulled through the resulting hole. Loss of steering is a bad thing at any speed! Coleman sells bumpsteer spacers part #808-900. While for a different vehicle, this is a writeup a friend of mine did when he did his DIY bumpsteer kit. Scott [ May 09, 2001: Message edited by: Scott Hung ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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