Guest Anonymous Posted April 12, 2001 Share Posted April 12, 2001 O.k., time to start asking a few questions to see who we've got out there I'm going to be in the plotting and scheming, and even a bit of engineering, stage here for many months until my budget comes back to start up the V8Z conversion (just bought the car). In the meantime, I'm curious to know what my fellow V8Zers have to say in terms of the trade offs between a full coil-over strut suspension versus modifying the stock struts. I have read the JTR manual, and have read the recent thread here on raising the spring perches, modified springs, etc. It makes me think that quite a bit is possible with the stock setup (I'm not afraid of welding and fabrication), and would still allow me to retain the rubber isolator pad to keep road vibration/noise at bay. My goal for my future V8Z (LT1, 6spd) is to build a car that has handling performance on par with a Vette, Porsche, etc. (yeah, dream on right?). But, I don't plan to autocross every weekend (maybe once/twice a year?), and would like the car to be roadworthy for a long trip without giving me a brainache. The two things I don't want are 1) much body roll around corners, and 2) tire squeel when taking street corners spiritedly. I'm planning to use 255/40/17's on all four. coil overs or modified stock struts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Do coil overs and modify the strut if needed. The coil over only replaces the spring setup, not the strut itself. It's about $400 for all corners and will require some fabbing for a mount to hold the threaded tube - no biggie. This will retain the isolator as you desire and is what will be run on my car - purchased from MikeSCCA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 I'll be going coil over also after my brake update. Adjustable ride height and probably a better choice of spring rates. Will 255's fit the fronts though? If so, it would probably definately need coil overs to get the room? , Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 You can only fit 255s with coil overs (short spring, high perch) and rolled rear fender lips or else flares. I definately recommend coilovers - it's a fairly easy conversion and well worth it. ------------------ 240Z.jeromio.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Well this is all interesting... Actually, If you do coil overs without rolling the lip, but using a five lug conversion, and the offset wheel I used, you don't have to raise the spring and perch above the wheel. I am using the 12 inch springs GC sent in my kit and No spacer up front and I have 1/8 inch clearance from the spring.perch assembly and my 255-40-17 front tire. Tire is at the outer edge of the fender lip, but it honestly doesn't look bad at all. However, the front hub on the 5 lug/300zx Hub and the wheel combo (CobraR) is probably the key combo here... As for struts.. I'd go ahead and do the coil overs... struts and the kit will set you back about $700 total and that includes Tokico Premiums. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 I dunno - There's more room up front than there is in the rear. Pete Paraska (http://members.home.net/pparaska/wheelstires.htm) has 17X9 in the rear with 255/45s. He explains that his perch had to be higher than the tire and his rear fenderlip was rolled. I agree that the 255s would fit in the front sans lip rolling, but not in the rear - my 235s are pretty tight right now and I will definately be rolling the fender lip. ------------------ 240Z.jeromio.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Jeromia, You are correct, the rears.. no way, no how... can't squeeze them in...I was just stating that with my current setup with the 17X9 wheels and 255-40-17s you could fit them easily up front, no problem. Rears have a much bigger problem clearing the fenders..I'm still using the 12 inch coil springs, but I have to use wheel spacers to get the tire to clear the strut assembly. Mike Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Hmm, dip me in chocolate, roll me in nuts and call me o'henry.. I didn't think that big a tire would fit the front, good to know. Just so I know if what I'm thinking to do is right (the offset on my rims has the rears rubbing when I get on it), how do you roll the lip? It looks to be 2 pieces of thin metal spot welded together, I was considering a t-dolly and body hammer and just working the lip up. Correct? Or is there a easier way? Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Lone, I was just thinking about rolled fenders the other day after seeing a BAD example on an otherwise very nice Z at the Palo Alto show (you went?). Soooo, I'm posting this topic in the body and paint forum. Please feel free to jump in there! Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 13, 2001 Share Posted April 13, 2001 Yeah, I want to be careful, both quarter panels are in super shape, and I don't want to jack the contour of the wheel well up. I've heard some folklore of using a bat (?) and somehow rolling it by the tire, but this does'nt sound reasonable to me. (not to mention the squeeking they make and the leathery wings.. yuk...) Lone Ps: Nah, I didn't go, wish I had judging from the pictures, was a little under the weather, but better now. [This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited April 13, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 16, 2001 Share Posted April 16, 2001 Thanks everyone for the comments. I should probably examine this suspension closely before asking anymore questions! Next week I will be moving this car to another storage garage where it will sit for a year or so until I have money to start actually working on it. The first job is going to be the suspension and braking system upgrades. I'm looking at doing something similar to Mike Kelly with the full racing brakes, but also on the rear. In addition, I would prefer to have new hubs machined to using wheel spacers, but will have to take a look and see what this involves. ...Talk about a lucky day, I just drove my '77 away from the local BMV this morning to get it re-titled and registered, and it shut down on me right on the road!!! 2400 miles of driving back from CA. and this never happened. I think the I-6 senses I'm about to toss it and just gave up all hope. AAA Plus payed for itself today in towing! O.k., now to start some trouble with fender flares in the body group... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 Thank you, RacerX for posting that information. I'll have to print it out and save it. The time will come when I'll roll the lips on all 4 fenderwells. It is great to have such a wealth of knowledge coming from all the members of this forum! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 fronts dont generally need rolling... rears do.. as said to do.. start at one end- i use a hammer only- BE CAREFUL!... slowly tap it in and work your way from one end to the otherso youare slowly bending the lip in.. take your time and it will roll in// i have the lip almost touching the inside rear 1/4. and idid this AFTER i painted the car.. obviously doing it before would have been better but the rims were only 14" when i painted the car.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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