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brakes on race track-being cheap


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i use my car for driver school /open track days at laguna seca,sears point& thunderhill when i can afford to go.having a turbo motor makes brakes even more important.this use wastes brake parts-the stock brakes were faded at laguna after first lap with old na motor.then a buddy gave me some toy calipers for front(the early calipers for oem rotors) and i installed some drilled rotors and some custom carbotech pads with hawk blue compound lining.in the rear i installed a dp racing kit with 84 300 zx rear rotors ,willwood dynalite single calipers and billit caliper brackits.this set up worked well -no problems except for pads wearing rotors out fast.needed rotors & pads for another track event -old set up wore out.got 5 days use out plus 2 years road use but i didnt run track pads on street .rotors & track pads wore out so i got undrilled oem style 77 z rotors and some porterfield race pads.now it doesnt work as good and the rotors warp and pad material is cracked-fluid boiled in front.now i am going to try 84 300 zx rotor/88 toy v6 4x4 set up with drilled rotors and some more hawk blue pads plus maybe getting rotors cryo treated.to you guys that are building project cars-you never know how a car will work till you run hard on a good race track.some of my parts laying around were ideas that didnt work.goto track,drive car ,change car at home go back to track-spend money.

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Let us know if you go cryro and how well they wear - that's supposed to really increase life but I've always wondered if it was true or not.

 

Mike, crossdrilled wear faster? I thought they just cracked more and ate up pads like a cheesegrater, no? Looking forward to getting my brakes icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

After 5 events and about a year, it's time to have my cryo treated rotors turned, just to get the grooves out. No warpage, at all. Call Cryo One in Michigan - very cheap by racing standards, and the guy is a metallurgist. Nice folks, too.

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quote:

Originally posted by scca:

stop using drilled rotors...........

 

and are you changing pads at the track/or trailoring your car their? blues are track only unless you want excess rotor wear...if only used under HOT conditions they're quite reasonable on rotors but not if they're not getting to temp etc where they will CHEW on rotors.

 

For street/track I swear by my KVR's. Look like new after 10,000 miles and a couple of events and LOTS of testing. I 'only' run their 'street' pad and have not faded them ever/even on the old OE ZX brakes prior to my current 13's/ and was doing the last brake marker at Thill and SIR last summer. NO other pad I"ve heard of is so friendly on rotors and lasts, just IME. The 'old' setup went to a 510 owner who was amazed at how smooth the rotors and pads were let alone tons of life left after my 'abuse'.

 

Drilled are for lightening and show IMO. Not many winning racers on drilled steel rotors that I've seen. Outgassing doesn't seem to be as much an issue as the rotor vendors would like us to think?

 

IF you like hawk/perhaps a step below blues would perform better for your uses?

 

[ June 18, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

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i dont run race pads on street-i change pads when i change tires.i run some pads from napa store on street.they are wearing well and wheels stay clean,the willwood polymatrix d pads in back dust the wheels bad and squeek like crazy but there is not much line pressure on rear-rear will lock up if i jab brakes.does any body know of another application of pad that fits toy caliper?i have a catalog with pictures of pads and last model rx7 looks about the same.i dont change pads on rear brakes for street.

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