echocluster@hotmail.com Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 i have a 71 z with a 83 turbo motor. i have a stock waste gate with a home made bracket. i have a t3/t04b turbo. i have a hallman es manual boost controller. i cant get my boost to go lower than 19. i cant turn the rod any more because it has run out of thread. my boost controller does not change a thing. i checked it with my air compressor. when it is all the way out air goes thru and when i tighten it air eventually stops. no mater what setting its at the boost goes up to 19. i have searched and cant find anyone with similer problems. any ideas???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Things to check: 1. The diaphram actuator isn't leaking. Connect a hose and blow into it. 2. The wastegate flap isn't stuck shut. Manually try and move the actuator rod and flap to make sure its not jammed. 3. All boost lines to and from the manual boost controller and diaphram. Good luck, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Your wastegate actuator is probably hosed, the flap is stuck closed, etc. Your boost controller will only hold the wastegate closed until a higher pressure is reached than your base wastegate actuator pressure. You cant use a boost controller to make the wastegate open sooner than the actuator base pressure. If you blip your air line from your air compressor on the inlet of the wastegate actuator, does it force the flap open? Dont apply 90 psi to it directly or you might blow the seals on the actuator. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun350Z Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Correct...A boost controller won't lower boost, it only lets you raise it. I had to buy a new actuator to lower the boost in my miata with a DSM turbo. Is your wastegate actuator or arm bent anywhere, or does it have any rust on it? Edit: Also, with the homemade bracket, is the arm straight? i'd imagine an arm that doesn't feed into the actuator perfectly straight could make it harder for it to open. The actuator I bought is able to be set for either 5 or 9 psi and it cost me around $100 But it's better than blowing More oil out your exhaust than the alaska pipeline leak. (like I did when I tried to run 15psi the first time) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy36 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 you might have your boost controller installed backwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 yep boost controller is prob on backwards otherwise check the tension on the wastegate arm.. loosen it up if you have to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echocluster@hotmail.com Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 well i tried installing controller both ways and nothing changed. i applied air to the actuator and it hardly moved. i disconected the rod and was told to wire the the lever in position. took it for a run and still 20. i was told that the hole on the turbo might be too small. can that be right? i got it and the actuator from james t. i thought he would know what to give me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 i applied air to the actuator and it hardly moved. i disconected the rod and was told to wire the the lever in position. took it for a run and still 20. i was told that the hole on the turbo might be too small. can that be right? Did you apply air to the actuator with the arm disconnected from the wastegate flap? The arm should move out at a set pressure and then snap shut when you remove the air line. It sounds like your actuator may not have a good angle to push the flap open. There's no way you could build 20 psi with a 1" hole bypassing the turbine. Sounds like you wired it shut. Try a test drive with the actuator disconnected and no wire -- the pressure on the turbo should push the flap open and you will build little to no boost. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echocluster@hotmail.com Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 yes i applied air to the acuator with the arm disconnected. it moved back and forth really well, but when conected to the arm it did not move much at all. so you are right the angle cant be good, but i tried going for a run with arm disconected with no wire and i still got high boost(19). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 With the arm disconnected can you move the flapper by hand? It should open and shut easily by rotating the flapper arm 90 degrees. It almost sounds like it's rusted shut. Might have to pull the turbo, remove the outlet pipe and check the condition of the flapper. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Yup sounds totally like a sticky flapper. Something is holding it shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echocluster@hotmail.com Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 i can move the flapper by hand .. i can hear the flapper moving around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echocluster@hotmail.com Posted September 23, 2006 Author Share Posted September 23, 2006 in fact i had the turbo powder coated. and then put back together by a pro turbo shop. i am sure they would have noticed something wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Wire the flapper open then and go for a ride. Let us know if you still get 19psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
echocluster@hotmail.com Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 i tried that too.. i wired it open first and that did not work either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 what? you hold the wastegate COMPLETLY open.. and your still over boosting? that is impossible.. maybe the wastegate puck is welded or stuck shut.. and the flapper arm BROKE .. so the flapper is moving around but the puck is broken and stuck shut. if the wastegate puck is open.. all the exhuast gases are being vented before it spools the turbo.. so it's extremely difficult to run boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnTmanS130T Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 This actually happens to me as well. I can only run so low of a boost no matter what conditions ... I usually run 14 psi (T3/To4e 57 trim) daily on the road but more when someone wants to run 18-20 psi on 100 octane. (Safe for now, untuned) The problem is the internal wastegate hole is too small for all the gases. Even with my actuator disconnected with the flapper moving freely... it will still go way above 10 psi. It came to the point where it drove me crazy because I tried everything ... MBC and EBC.. They will both hold but def can't run low boost pressures. I run the Greddy Profec B SpecII now, but still only able to run so low of boost. I don't really care anymore. If you want to fix the problem.. port the hole as much as you can so the flapper still covers the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.