Guest scca Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 OK Briefly!... 1) el cheapo way find maxima brackets (yeah right!) or buy the new "copies" Ross et I will likely eventually make @ $150 pr and use 82-3 ZX rear calipers and rotors, - (and i can get a 5 lug rotor in same offset for this setup) 2) 11" solid 84 300 rotor with 240sx caliper and maxima style bolt on brackets - these brackets will be made BEFORE bracket above at estimated same cost $150-160 pr. in 4 lug or 5 lug pattern 3) 11" solid rotor as above---with outlaw 1000 calipers - 2 piston alum. and Bolt on brackets... NO ebrake ebrake optional - hydraulic or mechanical 4) bigger as #3 just vented rotors and 4 piston calipers hydraulic ebrake is a park-lock NOT DOT approved but works ok for driveway use if small hill.. mechanical ebrake is separate spot calipers and they float. Pete has these and so does HOover and (BLKMGK and Ruben.in process) . and Danno..so they can offer more input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 Why are the Maxima brackets so hard to get? I went to the local Nissan dealer and got two brackets for $46 each. The parts guy said there is no problem with getting the brackets. I remember hearing someone say that the brackets were being discontinued, hmm... It was easier buying new, rather than finding the right Z in a junk yard around here. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 scca wrote: 1) el cheapo way find maxima brackets (yeah right!) or buy the new "copies" Ross et I will likely eventually make "El Cheapo" - that's me. And "eventually" is a bit open-ended for my purposes. What's that OEM part number? Might get lucky.... El Cheapo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 Dan, I wish you luck. Now, here's a dilema - my Nissan parts man, usually very dependable, knowledgable, etc. says that the part number I got off that website (44155-04S10) is a 240SX part number. He also says that the later ZX calipers have a problem with the E brake getting out of adjustment and not working. Any experiences to share? Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean 83ZXT Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 well after I broke the mounts for my e-brake and replaced the pads I have that exact prob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 John, I have no reason to doubt your parts man and maybe it is possible that The number has changed or is being re-used. When I wrote that little How-To, the part # was taken off the box that the brackets came in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 That part number is correct. It fit '82-'84 Maximas (I know 'cause I bought one after I found one side only in a junk yard). The 240sx (I have one of these also) has no bolt on brackets, so.... Here's the deal on the rear ZX calipers. Inside the caliper there is a tapered piston and cylinder that work together in the operation of the self-adjusting mechinism. For some reason the tapered piston gets jambed into the tapered cylinder to where it does not release and turn when you operate the e-brake, thus the brake no longer self-adjusts, and in time with pad wear, the rear brakes become almost useless unless you disassemble the caliper, free it up again, adjust it, and put it back on the car (did this many times till I finally bought a re-built caliper that worked good). It was a PITA, but still made the swap worth while, even when it was not working correctly. The other side never did give me any problems. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 Whoa! That's some key info there, that is. My e-brake is constantly requiring re-adjustment. I've had these (82turbo rear) calipers for what, 5 months now? Must've adjusted them (by taking them off and turning the cylinder) about 4 times now. E-Brake will work great for a week or so and then phhbllt. I got mine from a salvage yard. They were in pretty good shape. When I took them apart to replace the seals (and clean and paint them - also soaked the separate bits in parts cleaner for 4-5 days), It sure seemed like the cylinders of both were pretty much one piece. SO, either mine are different (unlikely), or appearances can be deceiving and the 2 tapered parts are basically fused together on both. That's not good. But the actual brake operation seems okay. If I jack the car up, spin the wheel and have someone press the pedal, it stops. Whereas when the ebrake quits, it can't even do that much. One problem seems to be that the amount of travel in the 240 ebrake cable doesn't seem to be enough for the ZX calipers. When I adjust mine, I have to make it so the caliper's lever is engaged about 1/3 of the way by the slack cable. So, just to be clear, you're saying that there are actually 2 cylinders: one that threads onto the e-brake "screw", and another one that seats onto that one. how did you free them up? I also had the hardest damn time getting the dust shields in properly. The rebuild kit had some rings - like key rings - a piece of wire bent around in a circle with the ends overlapping about a centimeter. Couldn't figure out what they were for? Rebuilt rear 280ZX calipers are some kind of crazy expensive. I was quoted $100 each, _not_ including core charge! [ July 10, 2001: Message edited by: jeromio ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 I tried scotch-brite to clean (polish)the contact surfaces of the two parts, then roughed the surfaces up with fine wet-dry, then tried to lube them, and nothing worked. I had to twist on the piston real hard to break it free of the cylinder. Once it popped free, I couldn't get it to stick (up until it would freeze up again in less than a week). That's when I said enough is enough, and replaced it. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Baldwin Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 John, go here: http://www.ideal-z.com/howto/rearbrake.htm for the part number. I'm knee-deep in the swap now. Gots my brackets, '82-'83 rotors, should have calipers tomorrow, got my Carbotech Panther pads, got a ZX prop. valve on the way (I know, I should replumb and install an adjustable one, but this was essentially free), got my '82-'83 new master cylinder (this'll work, right? Guess I'll see), got my new bearings, seal, and nut for the stub axles, hmmm, what else..... Wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 i have a rear disc brake set up from dp racing that uses a 84 300zx rotor ,willwood dynalite single 2 piston caliper and billit caliper brackit.no problems in 4 years of use except for pad squeek .no e brake though-i got rid of all that stuff.mike scca is building almost same set up except for outlaw caliper.car is driven hard on road race tracks-try 105 mph into turn 10 at thunderhill.rear brakes always work-have to keep line pressure down or else get rear lock up.easy install with cutting torch-cut off old backing plate and bolt on brackit with 3 bolts-20 minutes per wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 18, 2001 Share Posted July 18, 2001 Did Mike's rear bolt-on setup today. Once I had my ducks in a row and th ebrackets painted it took maybe a 1/2 hour per side with the old junk having already been cleared away. 4 bolts, talk about easy! Mike, ya' didn't tell me there was a vented 4 piston option available! I think the 11inch solid will be fine though, really... (lol) Time to drive this puppy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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