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Ferrari GTO wheel and tire info


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Some info on wheels and tires that might be useful to others.

 

It would be interesting to hear about the wheel and tire specs that others GTO's are running...particularly regarding 15 inch rim tire combos, sizes and brands.

 

Original Ferrari 250 GTO 1962

Front Wheels
F 38.1 x 15.2 cm / 15.0 x 6.0 in Borrani

Rear Tires
R5/R6 700L x 15 Dunlops

rim 6.0

section 7.3?

dia 26.6?

tread 4.6

Rear wheels
R 38.1 x 16.5 cm / 15.0 x 6.5 in Borrani

Rear Tires
R5/R6 700L x 15 Dunlops

rim 6.5

section 7.35?

dia 29.20?

tread 4.6?

 

One option for GTO 280z

Front Tires 205/70VR15

rim range 5.5-7.0

section 6.88

dia 26.30

tread 6.1

Rear Tires
225/70SR15

rim range 6.5-8.0

section 9.33

dia 27.44

tread 7.0

 

2nd Option for GTO 280z

Front Tires
225/60HR15

rim range 6.0-9.0

section 8.80

dia 25.60

tread 7.3

Rear Tires
235/60VR15

rim range 7.5-9.0

section 9.45

dia 26.34

tread 7.6

 

Stock 280Z tire reference

Front Tire
195/70-HR - 14

rim range 5.0-7.0

section 7.67

dia 25.16

tread 6.1

Rear tire
195/70-HR - 14

rim range 5.0-7.0

section 7.67

dia 25.16

tread 6.1

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Has anyone successfully dropped a 1976 280z 3-4 inches?

 

Per the info above the the stock wheel hub center height on a 280z is approximate 12.4 where as the stock for the Ferrari is rear hub is centered ~14.7 inches high. In the front the correct height tires 26.6 vs datsuns 25.16 so the front hub is centered 13.3.. vs. 12.6.. or ~.75 inches higher on the stock GTO.

 

So putting the original height ferrari tires on any rim will raise the Z two inches in back and .75 in front.

 

I would like to overall lower the car 1 - 2" while putting the larger diameter tires on it. So this means dropping three to four inches in back and 2-3" in front

 

Has any one succesfully done this? (I've seen a number of thread referign to dropping it one inch.)

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I just want my Alpha 1 to look as nearly like the original 1962 GTO as is possible. I want the Dayton replicas but with 6-7 inch width on front and 9-11 inch width on the rear so they can bite into the pavement under V8 torque. From what I understand, Dayton can help with the sizing and offset... and build them to spec. Of course, they want $2500 or so per set. I've looked around a bit and have found one or two small companies that hint they can get them for $1500 or so.

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Mike,

 

It was brought up on another thread regarding the difficulty of getting hubs that real Borranis will fit on. ..which is the most authentic look. But it has been done (see photo.) This car belongs/belong to Philip Gaulin and used a Scorpion Z-car kit to create his 250 GTO replica - its running real Borranis. (If any one here knows him, it'd be great to hear how he mounted them on the car.)

 

Thew other thing about this look is that Borranis are painted silver, or are in the raw aluminium. None of the original GTOs had chrome rims. And many of the repalcement rims are chrome.

 

Last point: real Borranis are expensive. I've been trying to source used ones but even thay are ~600 - 1000 each, unless you can find them at a swap meet. The original style are also not very reliable on the street from what I understand. Read: http://tinyurl.com/eat6k Also note: that the Daytons in the link are Borrani replicas with aluminum, not the steel rims a lot of folks run.

 

Are you planning on running Daytons if you can't get the other rim companies to come through?

Gto-Rep-w-Borr_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the info, Duke. That's a gorgeous GTO.

 

The Borannis are great but I think the Dayton replicas are the best way to go for a street car, especially if they can be had for $1500 for a new set. That said... I don't have a spare $1500 to throw at my wheels. Not right now anyway. Soon...:mrgreen:

 

The wheels at auction are the right type but are the wrong lace placement (offset) and size. Nice-looking wheels though. Dayton can help you arrive at your goals... I think you must "call" them for help. Once sizes and offsets are decided upon, you can order through any dealer... save some $$$.

 

Mike,

 

It was brought up on another thread regarding the difficulty of getting hubs that real Borranis will fit on. ..which is the most authentic look. But is has been done (see photo.) This car belongs/belong to Philip Gaulin and used a Scorpion Z-car kit to create his 250 GTO replica - its running real Borranis. (If any one here knows him, it'd be great to hear how he mounted them on the car.)

 

Thew other thing about this look is that Borranis are painted silver, or are in the raw aluminium. None of the original GTOs had chrome rims. And many of the repalcement rims are chrome.

 

Last point: real Borranis are expensive. I've been trying to source used ones but even thay are ~600 - 1000 each, unless you can find them at a swap meet. The original style are also not very reliable on the street from what I understand. Read: http://tinyurl.com/eat6k Also note: that the Daytons in the link are Borrani replicas with aluminum, not the steel rims a lot of folks run.

 

Are you planning on running Daytons if you can't get the other rim companies to come through?

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Here's a shot of the Borrani. You can see how broad the original aluminum (?) rim is. I am talking to Dayton right now about lacing their aluminum rims to use a hub that can work with the knock off adaptor that fits a Z. I'll post when I get the info.

 

The second photo shows the reverse lace that is needed to get the offset needed to fill the well and handle those tires.

 

By the way - great tip on ordering through a dealer...Thanks.

Small-Borani_thumb.jpg

Reverse-Offset_thumb.jpg

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Yep... you're on the right "track". Please note: There are many placement posiblilities for lacing the spokes... lip, rim, normal, reverse, reverse lip, reverse rim... you get the picture.

 

BTW, I wonder if there is enough interest on hybridz (and maybe some other sites... SHHHH!!!) to get a discount direct from Dayton?

 

Here's a shot of the Borrani. You can see how broad the original aluminum rim is. I am talking to Dayton right now about lacing their aluminum (not steel) rims to use a hub that can work with the knock off adaptor that fits a Z. I'll post when I get the info.

 

The second photo shows the reverse lace that is needed to get the offset needed to fill the well and handle those tires.

 

By the way - great tip on ordering through a dealer...Thanks.

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The original GTO Borrani wire wheels were 72 spoke nickel plated steel wheels. Keep in mind that they require almost constant polishing. Also, they will not handle tubeless tires so you need to insure that the tire you select is capable of running a tube with chewing it up.

 

The Dayton wires are also 72 spoke but more practical because they are chrome plated. Although the Borrani spinner says "Borrani" and not "Ferrari" I had the Ferrari prancing stallion (cavallino rampante) engraved in mine. I am pretty sure that my front wheels are 8 inches wide and the rears are 10 inches wide.

 

236622_7_full.jpg

 

 

Jim Simpson used to own Blue Ray Engineering and sold the Ferrari kit as a "Rhino." Jim special ordered the wheels for my car and I think his price was pretty good but that was a few years ago. I think Jim can still get them. Here is Jim's web site. http://www.simpsondesign.net/

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Thanks,

 

Corrected, they are nickle plated, (like some of the Norton Domiracer frames) Also some of the original GTO owners painted them silver according to the records I've read. Probably stripped them and restored them to stock at this point, given the value. The Knock off spinner is in chrome.

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Now here's a pretty car. SpeedRacer has one of the nicest GTO's around. Chelle's is another to be greatly admired.

 

Hey SpeedRacer... do you know te exact correct specs for the correct Dayton replicas?

 

Personally, I want 6 or 7 inch on front and 10 inch or so on the rear so that's a call to Dayton for help... at least for the front anyway.

 

 

The original GTO Borrani wire wheels were 72 spoke nickel plated steel wheels. Keep in mind that they require almost constant polishing. Also, they will not handle tubeless tires so you need to insure that the tire you select is capable of running a tube with chewing it up.

 

The Dayton wires are also 72 spoke but more practical because they are chrome plated. Although the Borrani spinner says "Borrani" and not "Ferrari" I had the Ferrari prancing stallion (cavallino rampante) engraved in mine. I am pretty sure that my front wheels are 8 inches wide and the rears are 10 inches wide.

 

236622_7_full.jpg

 

 

Jim Simpson used to own Blue Ray Engineering and sold the Ferrari kit as a "Rhino." Jim special ordered the wheels for my car and I think his price was pretty good but that was a few years ago. I think Jim can still get them. Here is Jim's web site. http://www.simpsondesign.net/

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I went through this exercise with Daytons just a few months ago and after measureing up my car to their chart this is what they suggested

 

Front: knock-off, well-laced, 72-spoke, cross-laced, 15"x7" with a 4.25" backspace.

Rear: knock-off, reverse-laced, 72-spoke, cross-laced, 15"x8" with a 2.5" backspace

 

My own thoughts on the cost is this. If you, as I, are so keen on the GTO you are doing yourself an injustice by not getting the right wheels, they are integral to the whole 250 GTO concept.

 

Someone has suggested that without power steering, front rims over 6 or 6.5 inches make for very heavy steering at speeds below 60 km/h. something you may want to research.

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I agree... the Dayton replicas are the way to go. That gives me the size for the front... I want 10's on the back though:mrgreen:

 

I went through this exercise with Daytons just a few months ago and after measureing up my car to their chart this is what they suggested

 

Front: knock-off, well-laced, 72-spoke, cross-laced, 15"x7" with a 4.25" backspace.

Rear: knock-off, reverse-laced, 72-spoke, cross-laced, 15"x8" with a 2.5" backspace

 

My own thoughts on the cost is this. If you, as I, are so keen on the GTO you are doing yourself an injustice by not getting the right wheels, they are integral to the whole 250 GTO concept.

 

Someone has suggested that without power steering, front rims over 6 or 6.5 inches make for very heavy steering at speeds below 60 km/h. something you may want to research.

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10s will put some rightous tread on the ground.

 

Ozman, I agree that Daytons are the best option available, although I'd consider a satin finish to give it a more authentic look - granted, as speed pointed out, it is more upkeep...Don't know if Dayton could accomodate...

 

BTW Speed, my tag was Racer X for the longest time.

racerx_thumb.JPG

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NOTE: The wheel offset and rim sizes I gave the other day were based on daytons fitting over Arizona Z race brakes. I think that if you are going with 15" Daytons you will be limited to the 12.2" dia rotors. Check it out with Dayton's template. However, I am now having second thoughts about my intentions to use the Arizona Z set-up with the Wilwood calipers for two reasons. Firstly Wilwood do not have, so I'm told, dust seals on the pistons and secondly they don't incorporate a parking brake. I am now searching for other calipers and will make up my own mounting plates, while still using Arizona Z hats and rotors.

 

This whole Dayton wheel and brake thing becomes a bit of a chicken and egg dilemma. What comes first? Both are expensive and you need to make sure they are compatible

 

Also, I understand that you can have alloy rims and stainless-steel spokes on Borrani style Daytons. I assume they would be low maintenance, but hey, who's going to complain about having to frequently rub their hand over such a shape!

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Since I'm not racing my Z, I'm keeping my original rotars and drums. I AM upgrading to the Toyota 4-piston calipers though. I don't know if that makes a difference.

 

So... my egg is already hatched... I think:confused:

 

Yes, the Daytons have alloy rims and SS spokes... the best way to go, IMO. The only issue with these is how to keep them CLEAN... oh... and how to AFFORD them:mrgreen:

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  • 4 years later...

I went through this exercise with Daytons just a few months ago and after measureing up my car to their chart this is what they suggested

 

Front: knock-off, well-laced, 72-spoke, cross-laced, 15"x7" with a 4.25" backspace.

Rear: knock-off, reverse-laced, 72-spoke, cross-laced, 15"x8" with a 2.5" backspace

 

Glad you had a good time in Calif. and Tenn. B)

Resurrecting one of your old posts to ask: Are you still using the Arizona Z rear brakes? I am in the chicken and egg situation with mine. I now have the Modern Motorsport rear brake kit using the 240SX calipers. I plan to get Dayton wire wheels like you, but can't measure as the brake set up is not installed. I don't want to install them yet, since the 14 inch wheels I have now won't fit after (making it a little hard to drive). I've downloaded the Dayton template from another of your posts, but there is a lot of info to fill in. Did you go through the exercise before changing the rear brakes?

 

CP

 

PS Do you still have your MS Word project manual available?

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  • 5 years later...

Hi all, I am a newbe. We are just finishing-up our Alfa-One, on a 74 260Z, stretched 4.5 inches, Powered by a BMW V-12, w/ 4 Weber Carbs, Aluminum Flywheel w/ Stage II clutch, 280 Z LS Rear end, Toyota 4runner 4 wheel discs and a ZF Dog Leg, 5 speed Transmission, and Porsche Power Steering Rack, (Hi-end everything, to be brief). We have just gotten the car back from the paint shop,( silverstone/ with a silver strip).
 We had bought a Refurbished set of Borrani RW 3801 wheels, (15x 6.5) and Splined hubs from MWS in GB. but the Deep offset of the RW 3801 wheels will not work on the front, so two of the wheels are currently posted on Evil bay, ( perfect and correct for the rear), and are looking for a more correct, lip laced wheels for the front. There are a couple of Videos on U tube, done during to build process. (go to Datsun Ferrari 250GTO, Weber or something such as). Regards all, Bob Lesher in Astoria Oregon

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