2 seater clutch in 2+2 too weak?

[Guest Stony82ZX]

I'm at the beginning of my first big mod project which is a T-5 tranny swap into my 82 280ZX N/A 2+2 automatic. It seems like common sense to me that the clutch that is on the T-5 tranny which I am getting out of an 82 280ZX N/A coupe would be too weak to work properly in my 2+2. Im not sure tho since I'm just a 17 year old newbie to Z's, I dont want to just wing it. So I just need some general advice about which type of clutch would be best to use (whether to find a stock one from a 2+2 manual or to get an aftermarket performance one) if the stock one from the coupe wont work at all. Im also a little uncertain about the diff ratios in the different models since there are both R180's and R200's but both of them have variable ratios depending on whether they were equipped in a coupe/2+2 or a turbo/N/A. Im sure that I have a R180 but I dont know what specific ratio it is. Thanks in advance.

[roger.svoboda]

If it is a T-5 came out of a turbo car (so you probably got stock nissan 5 speed) so had the 240 mm clutch plate originally. which is the same as your 2+2. The n/a cars had a 225 mm clutch plate. I put a 5 spd out of a 81 n/a in a 81zxt with the 225 mm clutch and worked okay unless you really dumped it in first. It was not a new clutch however was the one that was in the junker when I got the tranny. Once you got to second it held okay. Check zdriver.com for a post from bleach he just swapped a turbo engine into a 2+2. Only way to know the ratio of the diffy is to pull the rear cover. Ratio stamped into the ring gear (or count the teeth). R180 is a little over 6" if you measure across it horizontally. The r200 measure like 8" or so (sort of square). You probably got the CV joint rear axles if came from a 2+2. You need to check the driveshafts tho. The turbo drive shaft is a fat guy and the n/a is skinny. ouput shaft from the tranny on an automatic may be different than the output shaft on your manual. I would up trading out the whole drivetrain because of this. diffy w/axles, drive shaft, tranny, clutch assembly, flywheel. oh yeah you do need a flywheel. measure across the shiny (friction face) of the flywheel. 240 mm is 2+2 and 225 mm is n/a. Flywheels look the same except for that.

[roger.svoboda]

This may be too basic but you will need the brake/clutch pedal assembly out of a manual. Clutch slave/master cylinder plus the line connecting them. EAsiest way to get the pedal assembly is to remove the whole cage that holds the pedals. About six bolts I think two are under the speedo so that has to come out. They never seem to want to come out but you fiddle and wiggle and fiddle an wiggle and suddenly the thing is sitting in your hands. Obviously need to disconnect the linkage to master cylinder and clutch cylinder. The four bolts through the firewall hold the brake cylinder also if I remeber right. All the holes and brackets to mount the clutch hydraulics are in place you just need to mount the line from slave to master. There is one bracket that holds slave cylinder hose that won't be there but I don't see as really necessary. It is welded on so you cant just unbolt and put it on the auto car.