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roger.svoboda

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Everything posted by roger.svoboda

  1. Hey Roger. Just being the first to put a comment on your page. Put some more pictures up of your Z's!

  2. download the fsm from xenon and read therein the procedure
  3. steering leak isn't normal (defined as working the way it should) but often seen on the older Z's. You can get a rebuilt rack for probably under $250. Not dificult to replace. be sure it isn't some of the hosing/tubing that is leaking. then you might as well replace the ball joints and bushings so the car goes where you point it. new shocks also do wonders. 18mpg is poor you should be over 20. one that is running well can get in the 24-25 range. Do a tune up. download the fsm from xenon so you know what you are working on
  4. download the fsm from xenon site and read it. tells you all you need to know. get some deoxit and clean the connectors to the ecu, tps, maf.
  5. you can also download the Factory Service Manual from xenons130 website. Its free and a pretty good manual. you need to learn how to put a vacuum gage on the sytem and check the fuel pressure. Vacuum leaks are the bane of a fuel injected engine and poor fuel delivery is common on a Z. replace the fuel filter but that has nothing to do with living on a dirt road. Maybe the air filter but unlikely it is plugged up ennough to limit speed to 30mph. look for any hoses in the engine room that are dangling. find a cute guy that knows something about cars and use feminine wiles. check around on the internet to see if there is a z car club near you. Most members more than happy to help out a newbie with a problem.
  6. could be a somewhat loose belt slipping because of the extra load of the lights.
  7. R180 tranny is about six inches across horizontally (sort of a rectangle) while the R200 is about eight inches across and looks more like a square. Easy to see when sitting side by side but not so clear when mounted. The splines on the drive shaft for the tranny output may differ between the auto and the manual. The mounting flange for the input to the diffy probably differ. you can easily put the R200 diffy in the 80 if you want. you need to reverse tHe u bolt looking piece that mounts the diffy and goes up into the car under the carpet behind the seats. Once you demount it you will see what i mean.
  8. get a can of starting fluid. use it see if you can get a second start out of it. If so then pretty likely you have a fuel delivery issue. need fuel, fire and air to run. load check your battery and be sure your cables are clean, tight and free of corrosion on both ends. Z's don't like low voltage. you can get the amps to crank but not the voltage to run the electrics (ask my wife about the time I took her for a ride and we couldn't get off the ferry). Get a can of Deoxit by CAIG. clean the connectors for AFM, TPS and ECU with it. you've done so many other things time to be looking at very basic stuff. You say you measured fuel pressure after the regulator which is the totally wrong place. the fuel comes from the pump to the filter then to the fuel ring and then to to the FPR. your gage needs to go between the filter and the fuel ring. You really need to understand the fuel system. try downloading the fsm from xenon and READING IT.
  9. another possibility is that the clutch fork fulcrum pin shattered. happened to me on a dark and stormy night. either way looks like you need to drop the tranny and find out what is going on.
  10. could be a bad fpr. did you change the filter?
  11. your perception that the dizzy has anything to do with spark strength leads me to wonder about the rest of your post. Had you said coil and ignition module I would lend more credence to your statements. the fact that grounding something makes it work would lead me to believe you have the Lucas, Prince of Darkness disease. Lack of Earthings to use the Limey phrase.
  12. if you didn't replace the slave at the same time as the master you are just asking the car gods to strike you down on a cold rainy dark night in the middle of nowhere.
  13. the s30 are expensive. you can get an s130 in better shape for less money. the z31 turbos are around and cheap. Depends on what you like for looks. offered my son a free 81 turbo but he declined because he didn't like the long hood. gave him my 85T when he finally produced a BA degree and he loves it. I love the long hood on the s130 but I was a kid when the Jag XKE was a neato car. z32 is the prettiest of the last century z's and you can find one cheap if you look long enough.
  14. give a shot of starting fluid while someone cranks the engine. If she pops then you know you got spark and air. need fire, air, fuel to run so figure it out from there.
  15. first off you need to learn the difference between a MAF and an AFM. you have the latter. your fuel pressure is all wrong. it should be 30 at idle and higher when revving. What is your vacuum? vacuum leaks are the bane of FI engines. put a gage on it. below 18 BAD Above 20 good. quick and dirty pull the oil filler cap when idling. if it runs worse Good. stays the same you got a vacuum leak. have you checked your ignition timing?. The AFM might be your problem. They develop bad spots on the potentiometer that sends a signal to the ecu. download the fuel injection bible. Use google search you will find it.
  16. look in the fsm tells you how to adjust the idle.
  17. not correct read my post and understand what a back pressure regulator does versus a safety valve. which by the way you no got. more fuel bypass lower the fuel pressure. less fuel bypass higher pressure on the rail. the fpr regulates the bypass flow to maintain a constant pressure on the fuel rail
  18. you are wrong in assuming the fpr will open above 36 psi. as i said the premise is the pump will always deliver more fuel than necessary so something is always bypassing unless you have Huge injectors and running WOT. You are confusing a back pressure regulator which is what the fpr is in engineering terms versus a safety valve which opens to relieve excess pressure then closes when pressure drops. a back pressure regulator opens and closes smoothly and incrementally to maintain a constant pressure on the line being monitored. In this case the fuel ring.
  19. it should run with 30 but if you are getting no return from the fpr something is wrong. the whole premise of the system is that the fuel pump delivers way more fuel than the engine can consume. the fpr is a constant pressure regulator which senses the ring pressure and bypasses to the gas tank enough excess fuel to maintain pressure on the ring. so in my opinion seeing 30 psi with no return from the fpr is proof that the fuel pump is not delivering enough volume to the system to operate. where did you get the 38 number if I remember correctly it runs like 30-36 but with no return I believe your pump is faulty. another cause might be ignition timing. do you smell raw gas at the exhaust when trying to start it. i'm more familiar with the s130 setup but i believe the system basics are the same for the earlier FI cars.
  20. think about this. For many years up until the 80's rear wheel drive autos were the norm. people drove them. they learned to handle them. you could block open the waste gate to cut down the HP and help control rear wheel spin. my z32 in the wet gets beat by acuras because i can't keep the rear wheels on the ground. I need an S30 plus a 350 and a 370 to complete my collection keep on trying.
  21. there is more than one electrical connector under the dash of an s130 n/a or turbo. you would need to be more specific.
  22. you need to get an actual fuel pressure reading not "i heard the pump run". somewhere in the low 30's pic is a low cost pressure check you can make with parts from hardware store and a cheap oil pressure gage. goes between filter and fuel ring. is the fuel return coming from the fpr or did you run it direct to your container. no fpr low fuel pressure on ring lo press she no workee. use some deoxit by caig to clean the ecu, afm and tps electric connectors. if battery is weak or cables corroded z's don't like low voltage and all sort of electric gremlins as electronics don't work correctly. load test battery new cables.
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