starting problems-'78 l28e

[240zwannabe]

ok, i search but came up with nothing. is there a starter relay? i've also looked and looked through the haynes manual but i can't seem to find one. i've been trying to figure out why this starter won't come on when i turn the ignition. we've gone through 3 used starters, my 73 z's, a 77 z's, the original starter and a brand new starter. all the relay under the hood click when i turn the ignition, and one clicks under the dashboard. i've changed out the relay that was clicking under the dashboard with that of a '77 z but it still does the samething. can somebody please shine some light onto me or atleast point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated, thank you.

[Gavin]

It could be the ground for the starter or battery terminal connections perpahs.

[mom'sZ]

I concur with Gavin, check those cables. Check the battery with load tester or specific gavity tester. Might show good voltage then drop out under load. 1 bad cell, switch to know to be good battery. Manually cross the terminals with a screwdriver (be cafeful) and see if it turns then.

motor locked?

[240zwannabe]

well we tried bypassing the starter solenoid thinking thats what it may be and they all (including the brand new one) did the samething, they all began to spin. we've tried two batteries and the most current one we tried had 100% amperage. any more thoughts

[Overkill Z]

you should try roll starting is to see if its not the flywheel jammed with the clutch plate

[twoeightythreez]

I know this sounds like it's TOO easy, but did you check your ignition switch? These things are notorious for going out, the nub at the end of the lock cylinder bends slightly when it ages, and you turn the key to start, and nothing happens.

You will still hear relays click, because you hear the relays DISENGAGE from the "ON" position(this is why the radio will go out when you turn the key to start, as will the ventilation, Nissan wanted to make sure as much current as possible got to the starter for those cold days), but the starter solenoid gets it's feed directly from the ignition switch. Try jumping the starter solenoid itself (the big batt terminal to the little male spade end on the solenoid)

It should crank unless you have a bad solenoid. I'm saying this because you mentioned bypassing the solenoid entirely.

An easy temporary fix is to take the column shroud off, then take the two screws out of the back of the lock cylinder. The little thing that plugs on the connector is your actual ignition switch. You can use a screwdriver or your car key to turn this, and the cool thing about it is you can turn it farther, so it will work. (I've never seen the actual ignition switch go bad on these things, just the lock cylinder)

This way you can still drive the car while you order a new lock cylinder.

Concerned about theft? Take the ign switch with you when you go. You can put the shroud back on when you're done and tuck the connector back under the dash, nobody will notice anything is wrong.

Actually, a better idea is to just go to the junkyard and rip a lock cylinder assembly off any datsun/nissan from the late 70's to mid 80's, they're all the same switch. (You only need the ign switch itself)

This way you don't even need to remove your column shroud. YOu can just unplug the connector and plug the switch in, voila! Instant fix.

[twoeightythreez]

P.S.- to keep the new switch new for a long time, never force the steering column lock. Gently rock the wheel left to right as you turn the key, this way you don't bend the lock cylinder engagement pin, and the switch will last for years.

[twoeightythreez]

(You only need the ign switch itself)

Oops let me clarify. You only need the ign sw. itself to test/rig the thing. You need a new LOCK CYLINDER to fix the switch.

[twoeightythreez]

I know it's beating a dead horse deader but try a test light on the solenoid connector. It should light up when you turn to "start" if it does not the problem is 99.9% the ignition switch assembly.