twoeightythreez

this is my project on the impalassforum. http://www.impalassf...ad.php?t=326185 It is a 1992 olds custom cruiser that i swapped to a HM-290 (NV3500) 5-speed. Its relevance here is that i am considering repowering it with an LD28 that i will turbo, the goal being good fuel mileage. I think it is possible to boost the. LD and get comparable power to the stock TBI 350 (180hp@3600,300lb/ft@3200). Keep in mind its just an idea and dont try to talk me out of it My question is finding an adaptor plate to adapt the NV3500 to the L series. I've found kits that ironically go the other way. I know i could get a 280zx-t bell and use a T5 but if im gonna buy another transmission It will be a T-56 (attatched to a LSx).The ratio spread in the HM290 imo is good for a small turbo diesel, plus i already modded the car to fit it, the shifter location is VERY far forward. The HM290 has an integral bellhousing. Gen1 chev pattern. So, my options, if i keep my current trans, are: 1) forget the idea 2) put in a 6.2 gm diesel (but they inly had like 90hp as well,idk if mileage gains would be substantial and there would be no room for a turbo) 3) vortec 8.1 and gas mileage be damned lol 4) Adaptor plate and flywheel spacer(i would like to keep the stock gm flywheel and clutch if possible) Anyone here into possibly making me an adaptor?

Hi all, this is my project on the impalassforum. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=326185 It is a 1992 olds custom cruiser that i swapped to a HM-290 (NV3500) 5-speed. Its relevance here is that i am considering repowering it with an LD28 that i will turbo, the goal being good fuel mileage. I think it is possible to boost the. LD and get comparable power to the stock TBI 350 (180hp@3600,300lb/ft@3200). Keep in mind its just an idea and dont try to talk me out of it My question is finding an adaptor plate to adapt the NV3500 to the L series. I've found kits that ironically go the other way. I know i could get a 280zx-t bell and use a T5 but if im gonna buy another transmission It will be a T-56 (attatched to a LSx).The ratio spread in the HM290 imo is good for a small turbo diesel, plus i already modded the car to fit it, the shifter location is VERY far forward. The HM290 has an integral bellhousing. Gen1 chev pattern. So, my options, if i keep my current trans, are: 1) forget the idea 2) put in a 6.2 gm diesel (but they inly had like 90hp as well,idk if mileage gains would be substantial and there would be no room for a turbo) 3) vortec 8.1 and gas mileage be damned lol 4) Adaptor plate and flywheel spacer(i would like to keep the stock gm flywheel and clutch if possible) Anyone here into possibly making me an adaptor?

Thank you! Speaking of kids...the last time the former owner used this car he had his daughter with him on a trip...then the car sat for years till I bought it......when I cleaned it out I found my purchase also included a disney princess book and markers.....(which was a plus for me since I'm an "aladdin" fan and it was a jasmine book......so it got added to my collection.=).

The FS5R30A trans is the same one that's been adapted to the VH45 so I think it should hold up to the buick, no?

1-I have the nissan trans and two nissan transfer cases? (But neither is divorced) 2-I won't have to fab shifters, clutch linkages (I don't know of a hydraulic BUICK bellhousing do you?), driveshafts and trans crossmembers? I'm already gonna have to fab an oil pan (to clear the front diff) and motor mounts 3) if I'm gonna go buy a chevy trans and transfer I may as well buy one with a chev motor attached I really wanna try to use what I have. Thank u for the suggestion though!

Hi all, just want some input on getting a trans adaptor made. I want to put my 1972 buick 350 into my 1991 4cyl Hardbody 4x4, the trans blew...so I bought a V6 parts truck but now I'm thinking if I'm gonna go through all this trouble, I wanna put the V8 in....but I want to keep a manual transmission. I can't find an adaptor for the TX10 transfer case to any manual transmission, so I was thinking of just using the FS5R30A trans that comes with the 6cyl. The Buick is just a stock rebuild with a mild cam upgrade (guessing around 300hp and 350lb ft on a good day) I think that the trans should hold up as long as I don't do stupid stuff like drop the clutch in low range, what do you guys think? I really, really don't want to go to an automatic, they are no fun. As far as I know, the transfer case will easily tolerate teh power and the rear is the H233b...so I don't think a 350 is even gonna faze it. (The 455 I also have is another story, but I'll get to that later...lol) Thank you for any inputs or suggestions....The buick is 2" shorter than a chev 350 which has been installed in these trucks so i KNOW it will fit Bryan

Hi all! I know it's been forever since I've been on this forum but decided to look up some tech info for my next project (i'm gonna put a buick 350 in my hardbody 4x4 ) But while I'm here I decided to put up some pics of my convertible. I don't have many yet (busy) but will get some vids. It's a bone stock R33 Rb25, bolted to an RB20 tranny. I made all the mounts myself and wired it myself. So far it's a sleeper and a half (there is absolutely NO indication of what's under the hood)...it's a hoot! There are no extra gauges, the tach and speedo work like OEM (and read right too!)...it just looks like a beat up, 204,000 mile import with an XS power exhaust on it...lol Go hybrids!

cool! I still miss my Z but my RB25 powered 240 convertible makes up for it

Buick 455 is actually not much larger than a buick 350...it's a little longer because the bore spacing is wider (it's needed because of the 4.315 stock bore size...buick 350 has 3.800 bore) It's really a non issue anyway because a buick 455 is much much smaller outside than say, a VH45DE, and that's been put in S30's now.

Those two posts and I know it sounds stupid but make sure your fuel send and return aren't reversed...lol...that will definitely do it! It's happened to me more than once on multiple cars...you go through and troubleshoot everything and start hittin your head and then you finally realize the the fuel send is on the FPR, DOH! Once you do get it running you might have to "tweak" the spring tension on the AFM...these cars were set up to run ultra lean.....and as an engine gets older and worn out they need a richer mixture to run right. This only applies once it's running because the trick I'm telling you will basically adjust idle mixture. If you're careful you can pry the plastic cover off the AFM. Inside you will see the counterweight for the flapper, and a toothed wheel that houses the clockspring. The spring tension is held with a setscrew and pawl. Start the engine, and then Loosen the setscrew while holding the wheel...you don't want to let it unwind Slowly decrease the tension on the clockspring (you will probably advance it about 3 teeth if you car is like mine was) until the idle smooths out. (you are basically fooling the ECU into thinking the engine is ingesting more air than it is...) Tighten the setscrew and replace the plastic cover (you will have to put a dab of gasket glue in place so it doesn't fall off)....

Search under "megasquirt". I did a MS swap into my 280z (when I had it) and used the turbo dizzy. I have the pinouts there, as do other people. I used the stock Z engine harness with the MS .

The only problem I can possibly see is with that T-5. Hope it holds up for ya awhile.

How about running EDIS and getting rid of big, tall, and ugly (distributor) entirely? Lol it will run (fixed @ 10deg btdc) w/o a computer.....as in you can get it running and then worry about the computer. You could use a megasquirt to control it (then if you go EFI later you are set-up already) or I'm sure you can locate a mega-spark module (predecessor to megasquirt, stand alone EDIS control)

Engine Xmember done. Uses 1968-1972 buick 350 into GM A body mounts. Remember I said my friend was gonna weld them up? Well, he never did and I was forced to buy a welder and make it myself. I don't think it's too bad for my first crossmember. It's made up of 2" square tubing, plated with 1/8" mild steel. The crossmember weighs twice what it did stock. I think it should be strong enough, even though I can't prove it till it runs becase I'm no engineer. Here's some pics of it in the car. Pics of it mounted in the engine bay coming soon. I made spacers and also lowered the center of the xmember, so the engine now will only SLIGHTLY hit the hood... Here's a video I made

I didn't use a relay board, either, I used the factory fuse box and relays on my 280z (which is no longer mine), I'm also going to use the factory (relocated to the trunk) fusebox and relays on my MS-II, EDIS, VH41-powered 240sx, too. (so far have the fusebox relocated but not much else, too many projects. Pics will come along eventually. I don't understand why everybody doesn't just use the factory fuseboxes, esp. in more modern cars, it's there, it's engineered for automotive use, already has all the fuses and relays you need, and if you can wire up all this custom stuff the car's wiring is obviously no mystery to you. Still admiring the cleanliness of your wiring, mr. cygnus. A lot! If I actually get a few nice days where there isn't "something else to do" I'll get some pics of my 240's wiring mess and the eventual clean up...lol (the underhood area is much nicer, now, but the interior is spaghetti.....) I still have to procure another megasquirt unit...and actually finish mounting the engine first. Sorry to get a bit off topic.........

The infiniti Vh41 coils (1997-2001) also have an ignitor built right in, maybe I should use them instead of the ford coils with my setup (once I actually get the motor mounted in, lol)

Wow, that looks way better than the one for sale through mazworks, which is the one I have (which I had to modify to use a VH41...starter is on the opposite side!) THe only issue (minor) that I see is that the shifter is already pretty far back, and this plate looks like it will push it back even farther in a 240sx application... (the mazworks plate keeps the total engine/trans length the same as a stock Z32)...I have to shorten my shifter bracket as it is, it's behind the shifter opening and is not comfortable for me at all (I'm 5' 6" tall) The upside is that if the transmission can go back about 4" from the mazworks location, you could use a toploader shifter (e.g. nissan truck) in teh 240sx app. I'll get some more pics of my swap as it comes together. As for engine management, the megasquirt will be perfectly happy running my VH motor thru an EDIS-8 system. I don't know what the emerald ECU's are running for, but it's gotta be a lot more than a megasquirt...lol

Besides, since when does a hot rod have to make sense???? I've yet to see one that does.

Here's my current nissan project. It will have to do, until I can eventually somehow get a Cedric 4 door hardtop (preferably the pre 74 chevelle-ish ones but the 74+ mini LTD ones are cool too..they're only mini compared to an LTD, they're the size of a modern maxima..but RWD...he he) over here. (Hopefully a LHD cedric..such as the ones in Norway or something. I like LHD, can't help it....and I'm a sucker for the old big datsuns that we didn't get here.) Until I started looking in other countries I never realized that nissan had almost as much a love affair with the hardtop as america did, almost every model had one available, but most of thier models weren't available here. IT's a 1996 240sx SE, S14. It's going to get a 1997 Kouki front end, but as you'll see, that's gotta wait until I get the powerplant figured out. Here goes.....(and the more observant of you will undoubtably notice the car hasn't been inspected since 2004! Wish me luck!) -September 15th to October 5th, 2008- The 240 awaiting it's new heart The engine I'm putting in...a 1997 Vh41. I'm gonna have my friend fab up a custom intake manifold with Individual Throttle Bodies from Two Suzuki GSX-R 750's. (I no longer have the 720 that the engine is in the back of...I was forced to sell it due to being laid off from my job....sob....) That's a 300zx (Z32) transmission, with a custom adaptor plate to allow fitment to the VH eight cylinder engine. Attached to the engine is an XTD (generic exedy) twin friction clutch. Another photo of the Z32 5-speed, showing the modified bellhousing. (it was machined to allow the input shaft to be in the same place.) Yes, the Z32 pilot bearing works in the VH engine (with slight modification) The engine on the way in for mock-up. Yes, the sway bar clears. Barely. I didn't have to cut anything, but I had to "adjust" the firewall (the precision tool used is known as a 10lb sledgehammer) to clear the exhaust manifolds. The shifter is definitely going to have to be modified! Yes, officer, I'm aware that the hood won't close....lol (I'm going to have to run a cowl hood but it'll look OK) The stock unmodified xmember with the engine in that position has 3/8" clearance (about 9mm) and the steering rack does clear. The VH is one tall engine. I could get it to fit under the stock hood, but don't want to bash my oil pan if I happen to run over a walnut. My buddy erik is making the mounts I built from pine out of steel now. Only the wise one above will know when he gets time to do so. more fitment pics I was able to make new pedestal mounts for the engine block, my friend is welding them up when he gets a chance. This way this engine will fit without any crossmember mods. The power steering pump will actually fit! Ok, on to more things....I always hated the way the front mounted fusebox looked, so.... Time to relocate it to the rear. Since the S14 fusebox is on the right side and the loom comes out from the left, it will reach to the back, just have to lengthen the headlight, turn signal, parking light, and horn wires. Time to get to work! Loom covering off, exposing the wires..... Now, after I lenthened them, and chopped off the headlight wires..... I can run the wiring into the car.....and drill the two 1-1/2" holes in the upper frame rail (so I can hide the wires in there and allow me to drop the car without worrying about rubbing through wires) I also repinned one of the lower harness connections, and denuded them, so I now need only 2 lower harness connectors (starter/oil pressure, and speedo/alternator/reverse lights) The car is going to be megasquirted so I don't have to worry about all the nissan bull (such as the power steering RPM advance switch, or the inhibitor switch, especially since I'm going from automatic to manual trans) and the 200lb of wiring that entails. Ready to run through the frame rail..... This is where my lower harness will now connect. My plan is to hide as much underhood wiring as possible. (so all you see is an engine) Wiring run through the frame rail Now into the rad support.... Left side wires for the headlights/sidemarker/clearance/turn coming out behind the headlight Wires for horns and right side lights coming out on top of frame horn.....not done yet but getting there! -October 6, 2008- Did a bit more to it today.....slowly cleaning the wiring up. It's a pain but will be worth it. It takes awhile to take apart other harnesses I have laying around to get the wire and loom but it's starting to look cleaner already, and I still have so, so much to do. more to come!

Why not? You break 3/4 ton truck parts with the caddy torque, the 3/4 ton chevy also weighs 3x as much. (more stress on the parts) You also gotta remember that it's a 2800lb car the size of a CRX (which weighs less than 2000lb) it's still a strong, strong car for a little thing. I don't have to mention that a chevy truck frame isn't very stiff (it's strong but not stiff at all, ever take one off roading? The bed hits the cab from the frame flex...a 350 chev could flex a fullsize chevy frame...they're made to so they don't crack) Hell my 06 silverado has frame flex like crazy...it rides like a skateboard, seats and dash shimmy all the time. I still love it but my old "weak" Z car (you could jump my Z off a curb and slam to the ground and still had less rattles than my chevy with less than 20,000 miles has...and the Z had almost 240,000) was at least twice as stiff....as my modern chevy truck. The Z car is (much) stronger than a vega and yet it doesn't stop people from putting big motors in vegas.....even though I've seen a high powered vega flex sufficiently to break the windshield...it was still cool! The motor fits in a Z car better than it fits in a G-body....and good luck fitting a caddy motor into a vega....goodbye firewall! The stock rear will take it for awhile and if it pops, so what? Go to the junkyard and get another one for 10 bucks. I see plenty of reasons to do it. It makes me wish I kept my Z car. Btw If anyone wants a sweet caddy i have one for sale. 68 deville convertible 472 runs good. Too sweet to part out or junk but if the motor lives on in a Z It's good with me. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cadillac-DeVille-DTS-convertible-sweet-uber-restorable-caddy-convertible_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem180295612922QQitemZ180295612922 Please, please someone buy it. It really is a nice car, I want 2399.99 for it. Good rockers, floors need some work and it runs and drives. Swap motor if nothing else. I'm in PA my phone # is 610-737-6391 if you want to look at it and drive it around. I don't have room for the big bertha and It is too nice to junk.

Couldn't agree more. And a Megasquirt will allow you to tune for gas mileage and power....on the same map. I still don't understand why people are so obsessed with "switchable" ECU's....tune it right and you don't need to switch it....if your right foot wants fuel economy, keep the engine in the low load/high KPA maps or the high load/low KPA maps and you'll get good economy. If your right foot wants power, put the engine somewhere in between those two extremes and if it's tuned right you'll get the maximum power.

Why not just get an economy car and build the Z you want to build? My 1990 sentra (GA16i, TBI, 4speed) gets 30mpg if you beat the piss out of it. And, unlike most civics, no offense intended but it's true, hondas have useless peaky powerbands that try to advertise high peak horsepower per displacement, my sentra actually can get out it's own way without being driven like it was stolen. (it may only have 98hp but it has 102lb/ft from idle to redline...the shifter is almost superflous once you're doing 15mph)

(quote)I agree on the brakes. On a non-power brake/power-steering car, though, there's nothing at all wrong or dangerous with the auto-stop technique. I do it all the time on my bike and it is 100% safe(quote) It's perfectly safe with power brakes too, as long as you know that the brake pedal effort goes way up...you can still stop the car. (quote)As far as lean-tuning, that can get very dangerous. You can lean an engine well past Stoich, and it'll run great on a flat road, but run into even a slight uphill, or romp on the gas by accident or in an emergency, and you can find yourself with catastrophic detonation (quote) Get yourself a megasquirt and lean out all the high-KPA maps. Using this tecnique I had my 280z getting 30mpg highway with no other modifications, at about 90mph. It ran really lean on the flats but if you tune it right it'll richen right up as soon as it sees load.

You can modify the AWD trans to be RWD (you just have to cut the transfer case off, make some plates up and weld them in.) It's a PIA but it's been done. The RB25/26 bellhousing will swap on to the Z32 transmission, turbo or automatic, the actual tranny is the same, the turbo model had a different flywheel (and starter) All RB's have the same bellhousing pattern. (so if you wanted to be dumb you could swap the RB20 trans onto a 26 just to see how fast you could blow the tranny) What I think the guy was originally asking, though, was if it was possible to take the BELLHOUSING from a Z32 or from an RB25/26 and bolt it onto the Z33 rear trans section.

Not to be a wise-a$$ but technically the stock L28 pump is external. You don't need to disassemble the engine to remove it. (you don't even have to remove the timing cover, or the distributor if you're feeling lucky) It's also a very, very good piece. I don't know where you get you info but I've never heard of an L oil pump failing, excepting operator (no oil!) or installer (not checking clearance) error. I really don't think nissan would have kept the same basic oil pump over the over 25 years of continuous L-series production (it's easily that long if you count the NAPS-Z engines) if there were issues with it. There is a Nissan engine known for oil pump issues, though, which you may have heard about. It's called an RB26.