383 240z Posted September 2, 2001 Share Posted September 2, 2001 I've moved on to the rear portion of the Z and have a few questions. First my long term plans for this car include a set off big(not huge)calipers and rotors up front and probaly retain the drums out back. Now what I need to know is what should I use for a Master Vac and master cylinder? Second the rear set-up now is from a 1973 240Z is there a better year brake set up to use? I'm not sure what the differences are from year to yearI have a few rear suspensions here to pick parts from. And lastly should I use the aluminum drums or the steel ones from a 510? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 2, 2001 Share Posted September 2, 2001 alum Z drums are better than 510 steel ones. but WHY use drums??????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 2, 2001 Author Share Posted September 2, 2001 I also need to know about the stub axles I will be using the cv adapters from modern-motosports what stubs should I be using 240,260,or 280 I have a set of each just wondering which is the strongest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 2, 2001 Author Share Posted September 2, 2001 Mike thanks for the drum answer I may switch over later but most of this cars life will be on the drag strip, I just can't justify the cost of rear disks when there are so many go fast parts I still need. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 2, 2001 Share Posted September 2, 2001 use the later 280 stubs they are stronger... rear disks can be done for < $200 if you do it all yourself.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted September 2, 2001 Share Posted September 2, 2001 Just my $.02 worth. You will not regret spending even a large amount of money to upgrade your brakes, but as SCCA said, less than $200 (and it could be a lot less depending on how you do)is cheap "piece of mind". Balanced and properly sized brakes are not only safer, and make the car easier to drive, but the piece of mind of not having to deal with the fade problems is worth the time and money in itself. High HP gets one into trouble faster, and great brakes helps us to avoid the "unpleasant" outcomes of the prior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 2, 2001 Author Share Posted September 2, 2001 Ok you convinced me to go to rear disks now what do I need and where do I get it? I'll be hitting the scrap yards over the next few weekends does anybody have a shopping list for me? I'm assuming that the donor car will be a ZX but what year and parts will I need? Thanks for the help. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 2, 2001 Author Share Posted September 2, 2001 Also mike(scca) how can I tell the 280z stubs from 240z stubs? Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted September 3, 2001 Share Posted September 3, 2001 The smaller (and I use that term rather loosely because, yes, they are smaller, but the difference in strength is not well documented and only the immediate area of the splines is larger, all other parts of the stub are the same diameter) is 25 splines and the larger is 27 splines. If you want to use the OEM stuff, there are options of vented and non-vented. Check out the "search" to get an idea of what this entails. Either OEM option is going to be about the same work as the caliper is going to need a bracket made to locate the caliper in it's correct relaltionship to the rotor. SCCA also sells a nice aftermarket set-up too. I've not used it, but I think quite a few satisfied customers here on this site have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 3, 2001 Share Posted September 3, 2001 quote: Originally posted by 383 240z: Ok you convinced me to go to rear disks now what do I need and where do I get it? It's all detailed on my web with spec'd parts etc. The brackets Mike and I are doing cost more than the rare maxima brackets, BUT you get to a larger rotor/newer caliper/etc etc...brackets are $150US and you can source the rest used if you want or buy it new.... www.modern-motorsports.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 3, 2001 Share Posted September 3, 2001 the "cheapest" rear setup is the 82-3 ZX caliper and rotor with the maxima brackets. IFYou can dig up the calipers. i have new brackets for this $150 pr unless you can weld you own ears onto the rear arm for the caliper mounts. next step up is the 240sx calipers and corresponding brackets just slightly more than the early ZX setup. then it goes up from there,,,,, as for the stubs i have SEEN first hand 3 separate incidents where the early Z stub has broken right at the spline. snapped in half- all have been on V8 cars. so the small bit of difference for the larger splines may make a difference with high HP/torque [ September 03, 2001: Message edited by: scca ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 4, 2001 Author Share Posted September 4, 2001 Ok let me see if I have this right. The mystical Maxima bracket and a 88-94 240sx rear caliper and hangers and z-31 300zx rear 11 3/8" 4 lug rotors will work? is this the system on Scottie's GNZ? also will this clear the CV adapter's that are kicking around right now?? As for the master cyl I will need a 15/16" unit from a 81 280zx now what about the booster (Master Vac) I have a CNC operater who owes me more than a few favors my question is can the Bracket be made from Al? If so what type? Or must it be steel? and about the stubs would cyrogenic treatment help relieve the stress risers? May be one of the engeneers we seem to have floating about can answer the last two questions. thank all of you for your help. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 4, 2001 Author Share Posted September 4, 2001 The bracket I was considering is the one I found at null I just read a post by dan Baldwin his credenials alone convinced me steel only for the bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 4, 2001 Author Share Posted September 4, 2001 Also during my search I found a thread about using outlaw calipers with the maxima bracket? Is this true? If so at what cost? I also have a question about a parking brake,I seem to remember seeing a hydralic brake at a street rod company does this sound familiar to any one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 MikeSCCA is working on an E-brake solution for the Outlaw setup. I've got his Outlaw front and rear setups on my car now. Still working out bugs on my car but the process of installing it isn't hard - I went to 5lugs too. I didn't speak up earlier as it sounded as if you wanted to go low dollar. However if you decide to spend more money for awesome brakes say the word and I'll tell you about all the nuances of the swap. Pics are on my site if you're interested. You can go 4lug too but with 5 you get lot's more wheel options (and added cost too I'm afraid). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 4, 2001 Share Posted September 4, 2001 you mixed up the 2 different conversions. 1) maxima bracket and 82 280ZX calipers 2) custom ROSS et ME brackets for 240sx calipers... the 240sx brackets are different from the early maxima ones 3) i left out the outlaw stuff as blkmgk said too as i had the impression you wanted cheap.. the rears outlaw with no ebrake is $500 and will bolt on . will easy clear the CV stuff.. and Looks GOOD! go for the cheapo hydraulic ebrake if you dont really need one.. thats all i use on my car for now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 5, 2001 Author Share Posted September 5, 2001 SCCA is that $500 for the brackets and calipers? Thats still not a bad price considering all of what you get plus the added WOW factor. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 5, 2001 Share Posted September 5, 2001 Heh, but if you're going to do the billet in back won't the front look funny without it? Mike's got several billet setups for that too... hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 5, 2001 Share Posted September 5, 2001 $500 is new rotors, pads . new outlaw 1000 billet calipers and CNC cut brackets to bolt on to a Z rear strut.. even comes with caliper bolts, oh.,braided lines are extra and shipping of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted September 6, 2001 Author Share Posted September 6, 2001 that is not a bad deal at all what would a matching set for the front run?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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