Poundz9oh9 Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Ok, I have a set of Vortec heads on my Z, and was just wondering if any of the knowledgeable Chevy guys could tell me what kind of studs my heads have. They're Vortec casting 062's, I need to know if they're screw on or press in type. TIA guys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/frame.html?/Cylinder_Heads/sbc.html as the standard 170cc port size version comes from chevy they are PRESSED in studs VORTEC CYLINDER HEAD TECHNICAL INFORMATION Part Number: 12558060 Description: L31 with valves Material: Cast Iron Head Bolt Torque: 65 ft./lbs. Valvespring Seat: 1.300” O.D., 0.850” I.D. Valve-guide Seals: Viton rubber positive seals, total 0.450” retainer-to-seal clearance Combustion Chamber Volume: 64 cc Spark Plugs: Straight Heat Risers: No Valvesprings: Single wire with damper 1.235” O.D., 0.875” I.D. 75-pound seat pressure @ 1.700” installed height Coil-bind @ 1.150” Intake Bolt Pattern: Four bolts per side Rocker Arm Style: Self-Aligning Intake Runner Volume: 170 cc Valve Diameter: I: 1.94”, E: 1.50” Casting Numbers: 10239906 and 12558062 Max. Valve Lift: 0.420” which allows 0.030” retainer-to-seal Rocker Stud: Press-in, 3/8” diameter Spark-plug Style: 14 mm, ¾ reach, tapered seat chevy has just announced NEW versions of the vortec heads which are designed for increased flow and are similat to the FASTBURN heads but the new vortec 206cc heads are CAST IRON PART # 25534371 theres also a slightly improved 175cc version part# 25534351 these new heads are drilled and tapped for both old and new valve cover and both old and vortec style intakes, they have 2.00 intake and 1.55 exhaust valves and 65cc chambers http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_thunder/index1.html look 1/3 down the page for flow #s but before you get crazy... look at the DART PLATINUM IRON HEAD FLOW NUMBERS on this same page....a similarly priced aftermarket iron head http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poundz9oh9 Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 Thank you Grumpy, you are my savior once again. Now, another question. Any way to remove one and re-press in a new one in with the head still on the car?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 yes and no! removing ones usually easy enough, slide a 1/2 drive deep well,spark plug socket thats about 1/2" shorter than the stud over the stud , drop on a couple 3/8" fender washers,then tighten a rocker nut,on the sockets base, it will suck it right out of the head, getting it back in is not that simple on the engine, off the engine a hydrolic press makes installing a new one easy enought, but DON,T THINK ABOUT BEARING IT IN, youll CRACK THE HEAD or bend the stud, and it won,t be secure anyway,unless you pin it in place, most repair shops,that do replace them on the car pack the new stud in DRY ICE OVER NIGHT THEN WACK THEM INTO PLACE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER WHILE HOLDING IT ALIGNED WITH PLIERS, personally ID get them all machined for the screw in type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 BTW that having the rocker studs pull loose or having the poly locks come loose is usually and easily ,totally avoided with the use of both screw in rocker studs and a matched stud girdle that clamps to the adjustment rocker nuts http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D134%2D7101&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D141010&N=700+%2D108204+115&autoview=sku since its reasonably easy and cheap to do its basically a great idea, most machine shops can cut rocker base on the heads and thread the base and install the threaded studs in a day and usually for about $80-$120, not including the studs or guide plates if those are needed.....about this time those aluminum heads with the guide plates, better port design,screw in studs, better springs with more clearance, the far better flow numbers and less weight should start looking like the BARGIN they are! http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=78237 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS%2D30400002&N=700+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.