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coilovers and stock struts


Guest chevsun

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Guest chevsun

My question is can I install coilovers on stock struts without sectioning them and would I be better off with 10" or 8" springs? I am looking at the #225 to #250 rate spring. The car is mostly street driven but I am looking to control "squat" on 1340 launches and allow for as wide of a dot street radial that I can fit on stock 6" slot rims.Also will I have to run a high priced strut like tokikos with the coilovers? All input appreciated Thanks Steve

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no you dont need to section struts.

 

8" tall in the rear IF you want the spring above the tire.

otherwise 10" all around,

 

dont need tokikos but if the inserts are shot they wont control a stiff spring at all.

and you dont want a spring too stiff for the insert or it wont do anything either

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Guest chevsun

After reading my post I realize that the 1/4 mile is 1320 feet and it's my harley that is the 1340 cc's I really do know the difference. What would the reason for the spring over the tire except for addad tire clearance. Are the 8" less effective? Thanks Steve

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" What would the reason for the spring over the tire except for addad tire clearance. Are the 8" less effective? Thanks Steve"

 

To most of us it's only that, added tire clearance. Potential downside is less spring travel to coilbind (again, potential downside, I'd rather see coilbind the very odd time than a strut insert bottom out).

 

For the diehard builder/racer....8" springs weigh less than 10" springs.

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I was wondering if an 8" spring would have enough travel. 200lb/in Eibach's have 5.3 in travel while the same rate in 10" has 6.4 I was thinking of switching my rears from 10 to 8 to get the additional clearance. Ross, thats a good comment about coil bind vs strut bottoming though. Anyways, I'll do some measuring tonite.

 

Paul

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Paul I agree. This is exactly why I have 300 lb/in springs in the rear. To fit my wheels and tires under stock fenders, an 8" spring was needed. And the guy at Carerra suggested going to at least a 275 lb/in spring to keep it from coil binding on bumps.

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quote:

Originally posted by pparaska:

Paul I agree. This is exactly why I have 300 lb/in springs in the rear. To fit my wheels and tires under stock fenders, an 8" spring was needed. And the guy at Carerra suggested going to at least a 275 lb/in spring to keep it from coil binding on bumps.

 

Ouch! My kidneys are aching just thinking about it icon_eek.gif I rode in a local autocrosser's 280Z BSP that had 250 lb/in all around... too stiff for daily driving for my tastes, especially with all the potholes around here. Sure did handle well on the autocross course though.

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" And the guy at Carerra suggested going to at least a 275 lb/in spring to keep it from coil binding on bumps." Pete, you mean on big bumps at speed? That would not bind on normal road bumps etc....my 8" rear 250's very rarely bind up IME, I'd rather have coilbind the very odd time than a rock ride 100% of the time.....I'll be switching out my 375lb/in front springs shortly for the 'winter/wet' season for some improved comfort.

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Guys, this is someting I'm going to play with - spring rates in the rear. I agree that 300 sounds like alot. But going solid on the coils is not nice and can be dangerous (you get infinite spring rate all the sudden and the tires can wash out if in a curve).

 

If it rides too rough, I'll back down to 250 and see how that works.

 

The thing that can get you is a large dip in the road at speed.

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