BLKMGK Posted December 1, 2001 Share Posted December 1, 2001 More than once I've bitched about the lack of grease supplied with the Energy kit and the price that Summit and others ask to get another tube. Well, tonight while rading a VERY entertaining thread in th eRX7 forum pointed out by a member here I ran across some grease reccomendations that may help us out This is by a guy, who's posted here BTW, who's done an LT1 swap into an FDRX7 - and also made custom nylon bushings for those cars. Here's what he posted concerning grease -> "part #1337K13, red lithium-complex, premium-grade grease withstands extreme pressures and high temperatures, -20 to +400F temp. range, $2.72 for a 14 oz. tube for use in a grease gun. part #10175K15, lithium-based marine grease, clings to surfaces and won't be washed away by water or salt spray, withstands hot, corrosive, marine conditions. Probably just fine for a car, then. Purple in color, comes in a 14 oz. tube, 0 to +320F temp. range, $2.18. part #10605K42, Dow Corning BR-2 multipurpose grease, fortified with a moly additive, reduces friction between metals in extreme pressure applications. For use on bearings, black in color, -20 to +265F temp. range, $5.53 for a 14.1 oz. tube. part #1339K2, vehicle-grade grease, premium-grade lithium-complex, absorbs severe shock loads and stress. Use for wheel bearings, automotive and truck chassis, and industrial applications like sleeve bearings, ball and roller anti-friction bearings. Red in color, -10 to +400F temp. range, $4.87 for a 1 lb. tub. I still haven't decided which one I'm going with, but all are more than suitable for this application. They also have an aluminum-complex thickened grease, (gray) with moly and graphite additives, made to handle heavy loads and constant shock in "hot, wet, and dirty environments." Part #1208K22, $4.09 for a 14 oz. tube." Not sure which of these might work for us or even if any of them are suitable but I figured I'd put it up for discussion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimzdat Posted December 1, 2001 Share Posted December 1, 2001 Where are these part numbers from? To me, they look like they're from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com), but I figured I'd ask just in case. Thanks, Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 1, 2001 Author Share Posted December 1, 2001 Umm, I honestly don't know Oh wait - you're right and I'm a moron for not posting that part of his comments! http://www.rx7club.com/vforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11219&perpage=30&pagenumber=4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2001 Share Posted December 1, 2001 Jimlab is indeed the man... I used to lurk around the rx7 forum back when he had his last group buy on those bushings. How can a complete bushing set run up to $500 (a very good price for the RX-7) anyway??? I just got into thinking if it were possible to make my own bushings out of unobtanium, just like JimLab did... According to him Nylon 6/6 is a superior bushing material than polyurethane, and the RX-7 people were waxing lyrical about his bushings... Read more on them here http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlab/faq.htm So like I was saying, I've got access to a machine shop, and I've got more, much more time than money so I was wondering if I could make my own bushings for the Z. What would be involved in making them? Any and all details would be very much appriated. And Jim, you think you can get us JimLab to post in here give us some insight on the matter? I'd really appreciate it thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 1, 2001 Author Share Posted December 1, 2001 Heh, do what I did back then - dig his e-mail out of the RX7 forum and invite him over. He's been here, might even be reading this with ears burning if you've got questions goto the source. Chances are the price for his was so high because of the quality and the machining costs. There were a fair number of pieces too - might not need so many for a Z? IMO your best bet would be to buy a set of Energy units as a model and then replicate them in the material of choice. Document it too as others may want it afterwards. Heh, then figure out how to juggle 500 orders like I think he did You might want to look into Heim joints for some areas while you're at it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2001 Share Posted December 1, 2001 I just emailed him... Hopefully he'll post here and if there is enough interest, I might actually make a couple batches, but first I'll need some measurements... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 So what's the question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 i have been using 3m silicon paste on mine.it is clear and doesnt seem to attract dirt.i have been using this stuff on the explorer sway bar bushings at work without any comebacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 I emailed it to you, but here it is again "Hi there Jim, I used to lurk around the RX-7 forum for a while, back when you were arranging your final group buy. And I've heard nothing but praise for your bushings, so you know what you're talking about Now here's the deal. I've got a Datsun 240Z which I'm fitting with a Chevy 327 (and I find the idea of a Chevy Small Block (esp the LS1) in a 3rd-gen Rex, , to be very appealing! Now me and and BLKMGK, who also owns an FD, were talking about bushings, when I remembered what you did, and I thought to myself why not make my own Nylon bushings for the Z? I have access to the machine shop at my school and I'm a pretty competant machinist so I would imagine this wouldn't be TOO difficult. So I figured why not take advice from somebody who's done it before, Jim (BLKMGK) told me that you've posted on the HybridZ forum on a couple occasions, so would you be as kind as to share your experience with us ? to the Thank you for your time. " Oh, and if anybody is interested in reading more about these Nylon bushings, here is Jim's excellent FAQ http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlab/faq.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 EMI Racing has been making and selling the "unobtanium" suspension bushings for years. I've had a set on my 240Z for 6 years and they are still going strong. Call Erik at (714) 713-9096. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 6, 2001 Share Posted December 6, 2001 Looked high and low, but couldn't find a site for EMI racing. The original intention of all this was for me to make my own bushings, and if its feasible, possibly do the same for others. I like the idea of Nylon bushings as they have less friction and wear better than poly bushings, plus I have more time than money, and love spending time in the machine shop. So I would really appreciate any advice or information as I'm not sure where to start... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oltmann Posted December 7, 2001 Share Posted December 7, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Hydra: Looked high and low, but couldn't find a site for EMI racing. The original intention of all this was for me to make my own bushings, and if its feasible, possibly do the same for others. I like the idea of Nylon bushings as they have less friction and wear better than poly bushings, plus I have more time than money, and love spending time in the machine shop. So I would really appreciate any advice or information as I'm not sure where to start... Machining nylon is pretty easy. I found this site that explains it pretty well so I don't have to. http://www.sdplastics.com/nylon.html You can find a number of different kinds of plastic at McMaster-Carr. The two most difficult things about working with plastic are heat buildup and subsequent melting, followed by the difficulty of clamping the stuff properly without bending. It is pretty simple though, you will spend more time designing than fabricating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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