Balck with Green stripes z whos is it?

[stony]

Im researching all types of solid rear axle installs and this one looks totally different. I cant remember where i got them but i have them ;>i thought it was mike kelly but i guess not. very interested in the parts list and install method

 

thanks

stony

[Mike kZ]

That's my car! What do you need to know?

I used a Street/Strip suspension made by Jeg's. They were called

Jegster S/S Bars. They are a great suspension for cars with low

ground clearances like the Z. Now here's the bad part, I haven't

seen them advertised in the last 5 catalogues or so. I would call

them and ask if they still build them at 1-800-345-4545. The old

part number is 550-41001, $299.99 for the bars. Front mounts,

track rod,shock mounts, were extra. So are the coil over shocks.

P.S. instead of using the track rod as is, I shortened it and used it

as a Panhard rod. It attaches on the top of the dif, on the

passenger side, over to the drivers side of the frame. This holds

the rear end more stable. I also tilted the top of the coil overs 10

degree inwards / . This will help the car handle better. My dif is I think 45" hub to hub, but I'm guessing. What I did was,

first mount the tires on the rims I wanted. After removing the old

IRS, I rolled the tires under the car to see how much to cut out of

the floor. I then cut the wheel tubs down the middle, and removed

what was left, but keep them you'll use them later. Next I bought

some 2"x 2" square tubing for the rear frame. I cut out what ever

old frame that was in the way and designed a new frame rail per

side. I kept the cubby holes, but part of the frame goes into them.

I connected the front part of the new frame to the stock part of the

frame that the old IRS was attached to nearest the front of the car

(the forward part where the rear A arm was attached too). The back

part of the new frame was welded to the bumper frame, I also

added some small sections from the new to what was left of the old

frame. I also made some frame connectors out of 1 1/2 x 3" tubing

to connect the front frame at the firewall to the same stock rear

frame the new frame rails are welded too. These will be used for the

front mounting point of the S/S bars.

I made sure I had between

3/4 to 1" clearance between the tire and fender, and tire and frame.

I made a small hump in the new frame over the dif for suspension

clearance. You can see the floor is higher in some of the pics at my site.

 

 

[stony]

OK thanks for the info..... got any more pics of the underside of the car? i see the lower bars but what braces the top of the housing? the panhard bar braces side to side but what keeps the housing from rotating fwd on the top? again thanks for the info

[Mike kZ]

This isn't a 4 link. These are street/strip bars.

"In street mode, the right bar functions as a torque arm, and the left bar is a suspension link. This allows both tires to stay on the ground during body lean while cornering, as well as prevents wheelhop and maintains traction under acceleration or uneven roads.

In strip mode, both bars function as an easy to adjust ladder bar. The upper tube of a conventional ladder bar is not needed, thus providing maximum clearance.

Jegsters S/S Rear Suspension Bars are universal in design and feature polyurethane bushings in the front mounting holes. Fully adjustable for wheelbase, pinion angle and preload on the rear, via a left/right hand treaded link. The left bar features an additional quick disconnect provision that changes the function from a ladder bar to a suspention link."

All you have to do is install a large bolt in the left bar and they become ladder bars, it's pretty easy. The bars prevent the dif from rotating, along with the coil overs.

[stony]

so unlike a 4 link that will cut down on leg room this kit you didnt have have to remove anything from behind the seat? If yes looks like i cured my problem with cutting out the entire rear floor for 4 link setup ;> Anybody else have experience with this setup?

I called jegs and they still sell the kit but its a special order ... do you have the part numbers for all the other stuff needed. I sure they can hook me up but might be a tad easier if i have the part number handy?

[stony]

oh yea what size wheels/tires are you running in back

[Mike kZ]

Stony, here are the part#s

550-41003 - S/S front mount brackets (for vehicles with ground clearance limitations)

550-41004 - S/S track rod w/polyurethane bushings. (I modified this to be a panhard bar, better for the street). Both of these were $69.99.

For the coil overs I used the Pro/Series 2000 coil-over mount &shock kit from S&W Racecars 1-800-523-3353. I bought the deluxe 3 position 5" mounts with 12" 130# springs, part#40-223C-130 (these springs are for drag racing, but are too soft for the street. Since then I bought progressive 130/250# springs from Jeg's part# 122-12-130/250)or you can buy 200, or 250# springs from S&W Racecars. The price for the mount/shock kit is $259.95 . No I didn't have to cut behide the seats, in fact I left the stock cubby holes back there. My new frame partially goes through them. I'm running 295-50-15 tires on 15X10" rims. I hope this all helps you Stony. I do have pics but my scanner is down.

[stony]

sounds good thanks for all the info if you get a chance to scan them id appreciate it ;>

 

thanks

[Guest RXO510]

Wow! That's a tough looking ride you got there Mike!!! I really like that rearend setup. Looks very strong and looks like the labor isn't too bad. Wanted to put a bigger tire/rim combo in the back without flares. Will be looking into this setup more closely now. More fun!

[stony]

well i bought a nine inch!!!! but i think i screwed up i should have done the math before.... it is 34 inches flange to flange. i just measured mine and it is 54 inches drum to drum face. anybody know how much more is added when adding brakes????

i hope it is 2+ inches per side or ill be selling something on ebay

if my math is correct with my current wheels im sitting at 67 inches tire bulge to tire bulge. i wanna lose atleast 3 inches per side to get the tire more under the car. so that brings it down to 60 inches + or - . I have a feeling im looking at some wheel spacers and some wicked offsets to get the tires where i want them. any opinions???