JMortensen Posted January 25, 2007 Author Share Posted January 25, 2007 No, the spring won't coil bind. I'm using a 10" spring, and right now the rear springs have 6.38" of travel before they'll bind according to the Eibach website (10" x 2.5" x 250 in/lb). When I up the spring rate that will give even more travel before binding. I cut down the bumpstops, so the total travel to about 1.25" tall, and the strut itself compresses a little more than 6" if I recall correctly. I do think that I'd have a hard time compressing the suspension that far (especially after I up the spring rates) but coil bind is not going to prevent this rubbing from happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Yes I am surprise to hear this as well. The bottom of your rockers must be sitting on the ground if your tires rub the new lip. Here is a picture of mine with stock suspension after I cut the 2 1/2". You can see I have 6 to 7" between the lip and the tire. I might go back and cut another inch up if you are correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 25, 2007 Author Share Posted January 25, 2007 The bottom of your rockers must be sitting on the ground if your tires rub the new lip. The car was low before. It's going to be lower when it goes back together, but this time it will have some suspension travel. I will have to look out that I don't scrape the body on the ground before bottoming the suspension, but I think it will be to the point where that will be a real concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 OK, I'm done cutting and welding. Ended up cutting with a cutoff wheel. Worked a lot better than my cheesy air body saw. The whole cutting and welding thing was pretty scary to me a few years ago, but since I've gotten more experience this project didn't phase me at all. It was really pretty easy. One question for all those who have done this before? How do you "dress" the edge of the fender. Do you just leave the raw weld there? It's not like anyone is going to see it, but I kinda feel like something more should be done to finish it off above and beyond just painting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 Jon, Not only you have to rust proof it you should think about building a piece of mud guard to cover that big gap between the fender lip and the flare. GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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