deja Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I'm almost ready for that first fit of my LT1/4L60E. JTR's website and manual call the part numbers for the passenger side and drivers side different, he should fix that. The manual (seventh edition) isn't clear at all on how to install these things and the only picture appears to use different mounts altogether page 3-10 & 3-11. And after the post last week about the JTR mounts I am a little confused. But after reading everyone's comments on that post I think I have it right. Is the attached picture the correct order these go together? I'm assuming the set back plate is bolted to the engine using the non-threaded holes, then the spacer and the motor mount are bolted to the set back plate using the threaded holes. Next question before I head out to the grade 8 bolt store is what length bolts should I get? Assuming my configuration is correct I'm thinking 3" for mounting the driver's side motor mount and space to the plate, 2" for the passenger's side and 1 1/4" to mount the set back plates to the engine. The one bolt on the passenger side that goes though the motor mount, spacer, the set back plate and into the block will be 2 3/4". The bolts to mount the motor mounts to the cross member will be 2", these will have nuts too. Everything will have washers and lock washers. Locktite???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 You have them setup the same as I did mine. If I'd placed the spacer against the block as the JTR manual says to do they would not have cleared my headers. I don't think it really matters what order the spacer and plates are bolted together as long as they are on the correct side. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Looks like you have them correct. I went out and checked my engine to make sure. Looks good. As far as bolts are concerned, I bought ones just long enough to go through. Take them to the hardware store with you. It makes it easy. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Definatly take them with you. I bought bolts twice, good thing Lowes was right around the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 Thanks guys. Taking it all the the store sounds like a good plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 If I'd placed the spacer against the block as the JTR manual says to do they would not have cleared my headers. My spacers are against the block and they do not interfere with the headers. My personal opinion is that it looks better that way if you can do it. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 My spacers are against the block and they do not interfere with the headers. My personal opinion is that it looks better that way if you can do it. Davy Seems like that would put a lot of stress on the plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Seems like that would put a lot of stress on the plates. Mine are made of 3/8 steel, not aluminum, but the twisting or force on them runs down the crest of the plate, not side to side, so I doubt it will cause any problems, especially since the motor and tranny are triangulated between the engine mounts and the tranny mount. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 Mine are made of 3/8 steel, not aluminum, but the twisting or force on them runs down the crest of the plate, not side to side, so I doubt it will cause any problems, especially since the motor and tranny are triangulated between the engine mounts and the tranny mount. Davy You've been at this much longer than me and obviously you haven't dropped your engine yet, LOL. I'll check it both ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 In all the years I've been reading this site I've never read about a broken or cracked JTR mount either way they have been installed. Considering all the different motor mounts (the rubber part), the range of horse power and abuse, and the vagaries of installs from do-it-yourselfers, I think it's safe to say the JTR mounts are over-engineered. I have read about broken suspension parts and diff mounts. To bad Mike doesn't design all the parts for our Z's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 In all the years I've been reading this site I've never read about a broken or cracked JTR mount either way they have been installed. Considering all the different motor mounts (the rubber part), the range of horse power and abuse, and the vagaries of installs from do-it-yourselfers, I think it's safe to say the JTR mounts are over-engineered. I have read about broken suspension parts and diff mounts. To bad Mike doesn't design all the parts for our Z's. Very good point. And I'm going to be a pretty much stock setup. I agree, eveything I've gotten from Mike is way beyond what I expected, dude does awesome work. I'm going to bolt it up both ways and see what looks the best to me and make sure the block huggers clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 FYI: Both of the JTR swaps I've done (tpi & LT1) I did with the spacer next to the block and have had no problems with blockhugger header clearance. Close, but no touchy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 FYI: Both of the JTR swaps I've done (tpi & LT1) I did with the spacer next to the block and have had no problems with blockhugger header clearance. Close, but no touchy. So you think that is a nicer, better way to configure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I think I should mention that the block huggers I'm using are not the standard type everyone else has. Mine are Hedman Tight Tubes. They are built with a wide and more flat collector so all the header tubes are closer to the block but it also means the end tubes do not have a bend in them but angle directly from the exhaust port to the collector. Here is a link to the Summit page for them just so you can get an idea of what they look like. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D68506&N=700+400143+308700+115&autoview=sku I'm not advocating them necessarily but just wanted people to see why I set up my mounts with the plate against the block rather than the spacer. I do like the headers and got them for a great price. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 I think I should mention that the block huggers I'm using are not the standard type everyone else has. Mine are Hedman Tight Tubes. They are built with a wide and more flat collector so all the header tubes are closer to the block but it also means the end tubes do not have a bend in them but angle directly from the exhaust port to the collector. Here is a link to the Summit page for them just so you can get an idea of what they look like. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D68506&N=700+400143+308700+115&autoview=sku I'm not advocating them necessarily but just wanted people to see why I set up my mounts with the plate against the block rather than the spacer. I do like the headers and got them for a great price. Wheelman Good to clarify that. I have Sandersons from JTR so maybe that won't be a problem for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 So you think that is a nicer, better way to configure it. Deja, I personally like the plates being close to the block, since the other way, the plate end up between the motor mount and the spacer--to me that just looks odd, but it's a personal choice and "whatever works" is best ultimately. Good luck with your install. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 Deja, I personally like the plates being close to the block, since the other way, the plate end up between the motor mount and the spacer--to me that just looks odd, but it's a personal choice and "whatever works" is best ultimately. Good luck with your install. Davy That's what I was thinking, but I'll look at them both way and decide. With the spacers on the block first seems like half the plate would like it was just hanging in space, we'll see. My next one is the tranny mount. I really don't like the idea of just sandwiching it between the floor boards. I think some better support welding is going to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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