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deja last won the day on May 2 2011

deja had the most liked content!

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About deja

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  • Birthday 12/02/1945

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    Sugar Hill, GA

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  1. Boosting the LT1 could be tough considering its compression ratio. Plus unless you get a Corvette version you get a 2 bolt main bottom end. There is not a lot of speed equipment for the LT1. If you want 500 - 600HP it would be much easier to go the LS route. I love my LT1/4L60E but if I were going to do it again I get a LS3.
  2. There is nothing about the new LT1 that remotely compares to either version of the two older LT1s. Chevy for some reason just likes the name! There was one in the early 1970s, redone in 1993 with very few if any interchangeable parts and now the new Corvette version which is totally new. I have been running my 280Z with a reworked '95 LT1 for 10 years and over 40K miles with no issues.
  3. Congrats Greg. That was crazy just goes to prove you never give up, anything can happen in racing.
  4. I think the 5.3 wiring harness, Assuming you're using a "stock" type harness uses a starter relay that if bad will cause that.
  5. I got Moog from Rockauto.com over 6 years and over 40K miles with no problems. I don't remember where they were made. The tie rods are listed under steering and ball joints under suspension.
  6. I had heat soak issues with my old 350 but fixed that with a gear reduction starter. But on my LT1 I went with the Ford solenoid. Research will tell you the problem is not the stock GM starter but the small wire feeding the stock GM solenoid. As the solenoid get hot it will require more current to activate it and the "normal" small gauge wire on the S terminal can not support that higher current and the voltage drops. Using the Ford system I use that small wire to activate the Ford solenoid, ran an 8 gauge wire from the battery to the input of the Ford solenoid and another 8 gauge wire from the output of the Ford solenoid to the S terminal on the GM starter. That way you will always get a real 12V at the starter. The Ford solenoid is around $25.
  7. All I can suggest is based on what I did to my car. I have '77 280z with an LT1. Tokico 185 and 200 pound lowering springs and struts. After the engine swap I had the stock front bar on with the rear bar removed. A friend of mine offered me a 1 1/8" front bar at an awesome price so I took it. I reinforced the frame and installed the bar. I was shocked at the difference it made as far as body lean and balance. Also I am running Yokohoma drive S 225/50-R17 tires on 17x8 inch rims. Going to low profile tire made a huge difference over the 14" 60 series that used to be on the car. Again this is based on my experience and not on any science.
  8. I have switched from 280ZX CV half shafts to Wolf Creek Racing CVs. I have for sale a set on Modern Motorsports companion flanges to adapt the 280ZX half shaft to a 280Z. They are made for the 280Z 27 spline stub axles. The new MM site has them listed for $440 plus shipping, I will let these go for $350 including shipping to a USA address. They will include the 12 mounting bolts and I will throw in the big ass stub axle nuts although I understand these should not be reused since they are the non-stacking 280zx versions, The Z Store has new ones. I also have 2 sets of 280ZX half shafts with torn boots. One set is disassembled and cleaned but the other set is just as they came off my 280Z. Other than the torn boots they are in good shape. I also have new boots for both sets and with sell either set with new boots for $200 a set including shipping. I will take PayPal to deja@dejavideo.net
  9. I've seem the urethane ones flex at 70 mph.
  10. My hoodie arrived today, looks great, fits great, I'll be warm and toasty for this winter's cruise-ins. Thanks for doing this.
  11. According to the schematic of the PCM the Malfunction Indicator Signal come from PCM connection D9 (brn/wht wire) to the indicator bulb, the other side of the blub connects to ignition switched +12v
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