z ya Posted February 1, 2002 Share Posted February 1, 2002 I just cut off the factory rear coil perchs to install the coilovers. To disassemble the strut, Do I just unscrew the top portion of the strut? Do I need a special tool??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 I have a big crescent style adjustable wrench that I use on the thin hex nut on top. A big pipe wrench will work. A few times, a torch was employed to "loosen up" stubborn threads.There was one strut that it took 2 hours to get off since I did not wnt to get too liberal with the heat. This one car had stuts with the original struts and the threads were fairly frozen. The gland nut on top is more like a pipe bung with fine threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted February 2, 2002 Author Share Posted February 2, 2002 The top nut on mine have a 4 way key type set up. No regular wrench will work. Is there a specail tool for this sucker???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted February 2, 2002 Share Posted February 2, 2002 I successfully used a pipe wrench on all 4 of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted February 3, 2002 Author Share Posted February 3, 2002 I got the nut off. Is there suppose to be any fluid in the strut tube? I pulled out the carts and they were KYB's. I wiped them down and they looked like new. I also cycled them up and down and they feel fine. I think that the original struts must have leaked and the fluid was never drained out of the tubes when the previous owner put in the KYB's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 I have never figured that fluid out if it is from leaking hydraulic cartridges or is some kind of coolant for dampening friction heat build up. Are your cartidges GAS charged or oil. I have heard of fellows putting anti freeze in the strut tubes as coolant.Remember when sectioning struts afterwards to place front cartridges in the rear strut tubes and not use your rear cartrdges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted February 3, 2002 Author Share Posted February 3, 2002 The KYB's are oil. If they were gas I think they would go to full extension as soon as you pulled them out. I not going to section the struts and am only doing coilovers in the rear of the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted February 4, 2002 Share Posted February 4, 2002 You are supposed to fill the space between the strut housing and strut cartridge with oil. Supposedly this works as a heatsink, transferring heat to the strut, which transfers it to the atmosphere, keeping the strut cartridge cool and keeping its action consistent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 4, 2002 Share Posted February 4, 2002 You have oil and if not a seriously depleted gas problem. (That is cartridges not personal functions) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 I just did this last weekend so I might be able to add some tips. Use a big pipe wrench to remove the nut. The oil is for coolant, I just used motor oil but several contacts including the dealer said it wasn't necessary. One cool thing I figured out is to bolt the strut housing back onto the wheel as the wheel is lying on the floor. Standing on the wheel and tire gives you great leverage for taking off the stubborn gland strut nuts. Jer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted February 21, 2002 Share Posted February 21, 2002 "Standing on the wheel and tire gives you great leverage for taking off the stubborn gland strut nuts." Just be careful you don't bend or twist your strut tube if you're having to apply that much force. I found two pipe wrenches on the nut and tube with the strut laying flat works fine. Keeping the wrenches close to each other and on a flat will minize any chance of twisting/bending. 280Z tubes are thicker wall and more forgiving. If it's really tight just position one wrench so you can just ease your full weight/foot onto it a couple inches above the ground....I had one once that took some forceful foot stomping but it still broke free. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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