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New rear brakes.


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Guest TeamNissan

You should be able to just tell on your own. Hit like 35-40mph and slam the the brakes with the steering wheel and car strait. Thats how I tuned the proportioning valve on my on z32. Just be carefull.

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I've used drilled stock rotors and Perterfield R4 pads on the car in my signature below for time trial racing, and they performed very poorly. No bite, and overheating rotors (many shades of blue, and hairline cracks). OK, this is extreme use on a road course, but solid stock rotors work at least 150% better than drilled ones with the same pads. I've never tried slotted ones on the track, so I can't really comment on their performance.

 

So even if you are not taking it to the track, why spend more on drilled rotors?

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I'm not surprised and you are exactly right. The slots will help a bit with fade when the brakes get hot, but holes aren't good. I've found that solid rotors that are either heat or cryo treated work great and are less prone to warping, if that's even an issue with stock stuff. I got good rotors (no holes or slots) and Porterfields all the way around on my BMW 540i and it has awesome brakes! Great debate, I must say!

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I went online shopping after I was quoted $56 EACH rear 300ZX rotor from autozone(Beck Arnely).

 

I found the BREMBO REAR 300ZX rotors for $22 EACH and $5.50 shipping. I got them via UPS in 4 days. The wait was going to be 3 days for Autozone to get them in.

 

I have priced a lot of things from local auto parts stores. They are stupid high on their prices. Some are even higher than Factory Nissan stuff. I cannot find any reason to visit a local car parts store. You would think OIL might be something you should pick up locally. Hell NO! I can order my motor oil and have it shipped for less than the auto parts store prices. Wal-Mart is the only affordable place I buy oil locally(Mobile1).

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OKay first things first, I slamed on the brakes at 35, 45, 65, 75 and it took a lot more for my brakes to lock up then when I was on the freeway, and when they did lock up I just went strait which makes me wonder fi there was debris on the road when I spun out, it was the lane closest to the shoulder so that's a possiblilty, can that be the cause ?

 

Back on track the rotors at Kragen for $22.95 for rears are those as good or better then stock rotors ? Also front vented rotors from the same company are $15.95 which seems pretty cheep, same thing - are those as good or better then stock ? I think I might just replace all the rotors, pads, get SS lines and replace the fluid.

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OKay first things first, I slamed on the brakes at 35, 45, 65, 75 and it took a lot more for my brakes to lock up then when I was on the freeway, and when they did lock up I just went strait which makes me wonder fi there was debris on the road when I spun out, it was the lane closest to the shoulder so that's a possiblilty, can that be the cause ?

 

Back on track the rotors at Kragen for $22.95 for rears are those as good or better then stock rotors ? Also front vented rotors from the same company are $15.95 which seems pretty cheep, same thing - are those as good or better then stock ? I think I might just replace all the rotors, pads, get SS lines and replace the fluid.

 

Sounds like you might be onto something. As for rotors, I'm sure those will do the trick for you. Typically, the only time is seems worth paying for a more premium rotor (better metalurgy) is for cars prone to rotor warping. Doesn't seem to be an issue in most cases. Get those parts, get good pads and your brakes should be better than when it was new.

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