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Got my door dipped & stripped


Zerrari GTO

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I had one of my car doors chemically stripped to the bare metal to remove all paint, rust, grime, etc. The door came out very nice but now I need to know the best way of rust proofing the stripped interior of the door. How can I get to all the nooks and crannies inside the door.

 

I was thinking about sloshing some Metal Ready around in there but I wanted to know if there is a better method.

 

Thanks.

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just wondering.... where did you get that done?

How big a piece can they do? whole bodies?

 

I got my door done at a place called Econostrip. The guy who heads up the Georiga Z Club had his entire unibody done (at another chem strip place). He made a dolly for the body and they rolled the whole thing into the tank. Price is usually $2 per pound; my door cost $81.

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to do inside and out i would getting a large container of some sort and dipping it in something, then sanding off whatever you dip it in where you don't want it.

 

Good idea, but I'd tape the areas you don't want covered and peel it off once half dried, I think it would be less of a PITA than sanding it back down...

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just wondering.... where did you get that done?

How big a piece can they do? whole bodies?

 

I was told, when I started a thread to ask about sandblasting, that you shouldn't get the whole body DIPPED, because it'll remove paint in areas that you'll never be able to reach with the paint gun and it'll leave those areas, very vulnerable to rust, which is kinda counterproductive.

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Good idea, but I'd tape the areas you don't want covered and peel it off once half dried, I think it would be less of a PITA than sanding it back down...

 

 

thats an even better idea, but would could you tape it off with to completely seal out the liquid in which it would be submerged in?

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Have it powder coated. No kidding! Hot Rod Mag did it to there latest Camaro build. Makes sense, since the powder migrates into the knocks and crannies. It can also be sanded and topcoated with high-build primers. So, no need for epoxy primers. I think it was the April issue, with that Army green Camaro on the front.

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Zerrari – Sorry I missed this thread but I did get your message.

 

My knowledge in this area is a bit old (like me) but was developed by GM to deal with the rusty Vega’s. First the part(s) are media blasted to remove the old paint and rust which you have already done.

 

Next apply a zinc phosphate coating like Metal Prep http://www.halonmarketing.com/mall/Rust%20Away%20&%20Metal%20Prep.php You can usually pick it up at your local automotive paint supply store. A Zinc phosphate coating should be used on both the inside and the outside of the doors. I would spray it on and make sure you get it in the seams of the metal because it will help prevent rust in the future.

 

I would then spray the inside with a rubberized rust proofing like 3M Underseal. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_bgel=19MNFMCQP3bl&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=1WGT0QN08Sgs&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler Rubberized rust proofing will actually move around a bit to help seal all the voids and any nicks you get in it during assembly.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Speed

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Can I get one Duuuhhh!!

 

Of course you are going to bond the fiberglass panels to the outside of the doors so using metal prep on the outside would counter productive.

 

I ground the outside of my doors with a really coarse grit sandpaper which left a lot of deep grooves in the metal. The object was to enhance the bonding capabilities of the adhesive. So far it has worked since I have not had any delamination problems.

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Actually, I think that ruberized undercoating is more for sound deadening purposes than rust proofing... Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

 

thats an even better idea, but would could you tape it off with to completely seal out the liquid in which it would be submerged in?

 

I guess it could be done, if you use some kind of heat shrinking tape like they use on R/C planes, it's called Monocoat or something like that.

 

You put it on, then you heat it up with an hair drier and it shrinks real tight + it's some kind of plastic material, so it could probably seal the areas you don't want to be painted...

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Can I get one Duuuhhh!!

 

Of course you are going to bond the fiberglass panels to the outside of the doors so using metal prep on the outside would counter productive.

 

I ground the outside of my doors with a really coarse grit sandpaper which left a lot of deep grooves in the metal. The object was to enhance the bonding capabilities of the adhesive. So far it has worked since I have not had any delamination problems.

 

Speed,

 

In one of your post in a different thread regarding bonding fiberglass to metal you emphasized that bare metal should be primed and that adhesive should not be used on bare metal. What would be counter productive about having metal prep, then primer before bonding?

 

I have also considered using the stuff used to seal and refurbish the inside of fuel tanks to rust proof the inside of my doors.

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Wow, I must have had another senior moment! I don't remember recommending that the bare metal be primed and I can tell you that was not what I did with my car.

 

BTW, I checked on Metal Ready and it is a zinc phosphate metal etching product just like Metal Prep so it sounds like the right thing to use.

 

Also, rubberized undercoating was originally developed to be a superior rust proofing product because the old type of rust proofing would chip and fall off when stones hit it under the car and in the wheel wells. The 3M stuff has the capability to migrate so it should work very well inside the doors where you can't get into every nook and cranny. It's OK for sound deadening but there are better products.

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Wow, I must have had another senior moment! I don't remember recommending that the bare metal be primed and I can tell you that was not what I did with my car.

 

Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80057&highlight=bonding+fiberglass+metal

 

Here is the part about priming metal:

"3M Automix SMC/fiberglass panel adhesive part #8219; This is a 2part urethane adhesive use to bond FRP ('glass) body panels to each other and to metal frames - though the metal needs to be primed with a good 2-part primer (DP!!) 30 minute worktime - handle the part in 2 hours and cure time is 24hours".

 

You may have been refering to the 3M product specifically. Does that refresh your memory PopsRacer! LOL.

What product did you use to bond your door skins?

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Whew - unless my screen name was changed to "Anonymous" I didn't post in that thread. I also don't remember reading it so, while a may have a few senior moments here and there, this was not one of them.

 

I know my kit is bonded to bare steel but I do not remember the name of the aircraft adhesive that we used. It was difficult to use on vertical surfaces because it would run off so the doors were removed and laid flat on saw horses while skins were being bonded. A small amount of chopped fiberglass was added to keep it from running off areas like the rear quarter panels.

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Whew - unless my screen name was changed to "Anonymous" I didn't post in that thread. I also don't remember reading it so, while a may have a few senior moments here and there, this was not one of them.

QUOTE]

 

I'm getting you mixed up with RacerX. I think I'm the one having the senior moment!!!

 

...But RacerX please follow-up on the 3M product

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I got my door done at a place called Econostrip. The guy who heads up the Georiga Z Club had his entire unibody done (at another chem strip place). He made a dolly for the body and they rolled the whole thing into the tank. Price is usually $2 per pound; my door cost $81.

Could you provide contact info for either place? Send me a PM if you want. Especially the place that did the whole body or the guy in the club.

 

I was told, when I started a thread to ask about sandblasting, that you shouldn't get the whole body DIPPED, because it'll remove paint in areas that you'll never be able to reach with the paint gun and it'll leave those areas, very vulnerable to rust, which is kinda counterproductive.

True Alex, true.... for a street driven car you are probably right. But I'm trying to prepare a car for SCCA Improved Touring class road racing. There is a minimum wieght and only so many things you are legally allowed to do to get to that wieght. The zcar is one that finds it hard to get to it's min. Stripping undercoat, old paint, bondo ect. is one of them. The car would be stored inside. Also, this is door to door racing and SCCA is known for having a very high tolerance for contact. Long before it rotted out, it would probably get smashed, rolled or totaled out (cringe) I already have one spare shell. So for me it would save tons of time and get some undercoat that otherwise couldn't be reached.

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I was told, when I started a thread to ask about sandblasting, that you shouldn't get the whole body DIPPED, because it'll remove paint in areas that you'll never be able to reach with the paint gun and it'll leave those areas, very vulnerable to rust, which is kinda counterproductive.

 

Most of the places that do the metal stripping follow up the procedure with a rust inhibiting coating. The place that did mine used a water soluable coating so it won't last but some use a zink type coating that is more permanent. A lot of people will protect he insides of frame rails, etc. by filling them with a mixture: linseed oil, mineral spirits & japan dryer (often used to rust proof the insides of airplane kit components) and then draining it out to leave a coating.

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