naviathan

I've started looking around for another Z/ZX. Last time I was in the market they ranged from $1k to $5k depending on condition. Now it looks like they're easily into the $10k+ range... What happened???

I would much prefer the manual. My 77 is manual and I loved the way it handled when it was on the road. My 81 is power, but it feels more like the manual steering in my 77. Except of course when stopped and turning the wheel.

I have a front cross member with R&P, but I don't want to lose my RB setup because it responds soooo much better than the R&P models. Also I have the trans cross member from the turbo car I pulled everything out of. I also have the rear diff, CV shafts, axel stub adapters, etc. etc... I went into this with a pretty good idea of what I needed from the parts car.

I like that thought. Are there any disadvantages to an external waste gate? I'll probably throw it in as is and cut the bracket for now, but for future reference this would be good to know.

Anytime, I was building and selling the ECUs for a while there. I'm pretty good at diagnosing problems and I haven't met an ECU yet that I couldn't repair. I had one running my old setup for a very short time. That setup died due to overly high compression and old low octane gas, but the MS-II ran it anyway, even after the head gasket blew out around two cylinders. Damn good ECUs...Gotta finish my car...I'm getting antsy again...

Thanks for the link! At least I know I can keep my reciprocating ball steering and still install the turbo. It's just a tight fit to the waste gate.

I have the full drive train from the turbo and a MS-II setup already wired into the car, I'm just concerned about the steering box getting in the way of the turbo.

That sucks. I like the reciprocating ball steering. How do they work around it in the 280z swaps?

I'm getting ready to drop a turbo into my 81ZX and I wasn't sure if the turbo and the steering box would interfere? My ZX has reciprocating ball steering so there's a steering box on the fender well. It looks like it's close to the location the turbo would sit, but I wasn't sure. Does anyone know if there's any clearance issues with this setup?

Wow, the low end for my 81 coupe is $3K...I don't think I'll get that if I tried to sell it...

It could be anything inside the chip causing it to heat up excessively and shutdown. If you think the ground resistance is the problem get the schematics and follow that trace to see what could be causing it. Could be a diode causing the resistance that needs to be changed, but I don't believe a high resistance on the ground pin would cause the 5v to over heat.

Yeah I'd say that's probably it then. The 5v regulator shouldn't get warm until it's under a decent load, which the stim board doesn't provide, at least mine never has.

When it does power on, does the 5V regulator get hot really quick?

The speed limiter would be ineffective in an early chassis. The S130 and S30 didn't have speed sensors so there is nothing for the speed limiter to read off of.

Just as the title says. I keep getting this internal server error, but after a few minutes the reply I sent finally posted multiple times.

I changed the title and added SOLD to the start of it. If anyone can remove my add for the 82 Fairlady I'd appreciate it.

Are you sure you didn't reverse the terminals? My father did that to a Z once, but he didn't reverse the terminals, he reversed the charger leads and reverse charged the battery. I never thought that was possible, but I guess if the battery is completely dead it can be done. The guy at Advance didn't believe me either until he put the battery on the test bench and it said the cables were reversed. Switched them around and it passed the test. Might want to check you battery and make sure positive is actually positive.

Speaking of search, is there a quick search somewhere that I'm overlooking similar to the old "New Posts" search (search query GetNew)?

Often a wandering idle can be caused by the idle mixture being too lean, tolerances on the TPS/MAP dot being too tight, auto tune could be attempting to readjust every time the mix gets slightly out. I would check you tables and make sure they're close to what you want then shut off the autotune feature and see it evens out.

You know I'm starting to wonder if there's a problem with your serial cable to your laptop. If the sense or ground lines on the communications side have an intermittent short and are causing a spike through the comm system that could cause the errant logs and the firmware corruption. Do you have another cable you can try?

Ok the first thing to jump out at me (aside from the insane lettering and grammer) is the 1978 280ZX turbo, all original....Ummmmm...the turbo didn't come out until 1980...How could the 78 280Z (note it's a Z not ZX) have a turbo and be all original?

I'm waiting for Cali to pass a law stating that if you live in an urban area with public transportation you'll no longer be allowed to drive a personal vehicle within the city limits. To save on pollution of course.

Unless it's improved any in the last year I've always heard the MS autotune was very unreliable.

Have you reflashed the firmware yet? All these problems remind me of a corrupt firmware which can happen after a bad spike or excessive noise on the ground.