Guest wop4life2 Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 i started rebuilding a 240z and i have a small block 350 and a 300zx rear end. I need a new drive shaft for it. Does anyone know what would be best and if I would need an adaptor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seth Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 I have not done the 350 swap, but i am sure a little searching will go a long way. When I swapped in my z32 transmission I used http://www.driveshaftshop.com/ they were recommended to me by a hotrodder I know around home. These guys were fast and knew what they were talking about, had my custom drive-shaft shipped in a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 For the flanges https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html For the shaft http://www.pstds.com/custom_driveshafts.htm The driveshaft place may have the flanges, but JTR is a known solution and may save you some trouble. Oh, and to ensure a long and prosperous relationship with this site http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=93&a=2 http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=93 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Hey Lifer, I didn't find this in any post, but I really lucked out when I had my driveshaft made last week......The posts I read said to measure from the center of the transmission yoke (with it ALL the way into the transmisison) to the center of the rear adapter flange (bolted to the rear diff), then subtract 3/4". My local driveshaft guy said to measure the same way, but subtract 1". This is the part where I got lucky......I figured I'd split the difference and subtract 7/8". When I installed the new driveshaft, it BARELY squeezed in front of the rear sway bar. I have to put quite a bit of pressure on it to get it by, to the point where I don't think it would've made it if I had only subtracted 3/4".....and what a PITA it would be to have to drop the swaybar to install/remove the driveshaft. Anyway, the reason I'm making this post is to recommend putting a speed square on the diff flange (without the adapter flange bolted on) and measure how far it is to the front of the sway bar.......because this is how far into the transmission the driveshaft must go, to clear the sway bar. Once you know this distance, you can get an idea if 3/4" will be enough....it seems it is enough for most people, but wouldn't have been for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Why can't you just insert the back of the driveshaft up over the sway bar before you put the front yoke on the trans? Installing the shaft should be the least of your worries. Having it come off while driving because it is too short will create a lot more work than dropping your sway bar. Just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teekass Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 Why can't you just insert the back of the driveshaft up over the sway bar before you put the front yoke on the trans? Installing the shaft should be the least of your worries. Having it come off while driving because it is too short will create a lot more work than dropping your sway bar. Just a thought If it were possible to put the driveshaft over the diff, then backward until it would go into the transmission I would have done that, but I still would not want my slip yoke all the way into the transmission (see #2 below). The slip yoke is 4" long, and you can see from the pictures there is nowhere to get 4" past the diff flange. As far as the driveshaft coming out while driving, the yoke is still 3 1/8" into the transmission which is plenty to keep it in, and as far as strength, there's more spline contact than the axle/carrier of a Ford 9". Pulling the yoke out 3/4" - 1" is standard, for 2 reasons. Hit the second choice "How much slip travel should I have?" http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html#How%20much%20slip%20travel%20should%20I%20have 1 - On a U-bolt style universal, you have to be able to come over the ears on the rear mount, then back to where the u-joint sits in place. 2 - You have to allow for forward movement of the driveshaft as the pinion moves upward from torque (especially in leaf spring style cars without ladder bars). I've seen broken transmissions and bellhousings from this. I know these don't really apply in my case since I don't have a U-bolt style universal, nor do I expect my rear to move much but if it does, I should have enough slip travel that it doesn't destroy my transmission. Oh yeah, if anybody noticed how low my sway bar is, it's because I just made some mounts that moved it down 1 1/2" because it was hitting the U-joint flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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