jrd Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 I would like to thank everyone for their help trying to solve my PWM issues. I couldn't get the car to idle or run with a PWM less than 70%. After I flashed the 29V version of the code and started using that the problem went away. I am now running at 35% with no problem. Well, I shouldn't say "no problem" more like a new problem. As I am at idle or accelerating I am either getting a reset or a voltage spike. When I am accelerating it feels like some onestepped on the brakes for a second. At idle the car almost stalls.... The log shows occasional high voltages (above 17V). Would this do it? I am running a mechanical voltage regulator and an old 50 amp alternator....I am thinking it may be time to upgrade.....any comments? Thanks, Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 I took another look at the log you sent me - besides the notes I'd sent you earlier on the acceleration settings, there is a lot of noise in the battery voltage. You may want to put a radio noise filter on the 12 volt line; I've got that on my Dodge Dart and it makes a big difference. And yes, that alternator does sound a bit marginal for an injected car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrd Posted May 8, 2007 Author Share Posted May 8, 2007 OK, the "glitch" is gone. Aparently my settings for the TPS threashold were too low as was my deccel %. My TPS Threashold is now 1.5 v/s and the deccel is 75%. I am curious what others are using for their Cold Accel Enrichment (ms) and %? 'Cause my car is running like crap until it is warmed up. Plus cranking always results in a cloud of gas laden smoke out the tailpipe. I have set: Prime pump pulse >0 Fire primary pulse after 2 seconds Primary PW Source = Standard Prime Standard Priming Pulse (ms) = 0.0 Cranking pulse width temps = CLT only Cranking RPM = 300 TPS Clear = 200 Use first start enrichment = off Car cranks and cranks but will not start until I depress the pedal slightly. Then when cold it baulks and dies when I try and accelerate. My FIDLE is not set up yet, but will be soon. All my enrichments are currently set to zero as I am trying to get rid of the cloud of fuel problem. Thanks, Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted May 9, 2007 Share Posted May 9, 2007 Get your idle mixture correct at normal operating temperature first, then start playing with the warmup wizard. Get it running good when hot, then work on the cold enrichment. Also, make sure closed loop is off. Read through the FAQ on the cold enrichment, it helped me a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrd Posted May 9, 2007 Author Share Posted May 9, 2007 OK, I am getting there thanks to Matt and Z-ya. I now have a car that is idling very smoothly and has pretty decent acceleration. Going to have to work out the initial cranking and the starting. I think that the car actually has slightly better acceleration after it has warmed up slightly, but not completely. This would seem to indicate I am running a little bit lean? I was just sitting at a light a moment ago when two punks in an old celica GT asked me if I wanted to race. I was so shocked that they thought that an old celica could take a 240???!? Anyway, street racing is stupid so I didn't do it. Besides, I was enjoying a cool refreshing slurpy from 7-11. Thanks, Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 10, 2007 Share Posted May 10, 2007 If your miss comes back, see if you have a pulse width spike with the voltage spike. If so it's your flyback circuit. Check this out if it returns. http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=21805 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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