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Clifton

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Everything posted by Clifton

  1. Clifton
    Ed, did you get your VR dizzy working? I'm having a similar problem with no RPM on MT. At least not during cranking. If I spin it by hand or with a drill I get a signal.
  2. Clifton

    Didn't see this until today. I was running a 17x8 in the front with a 25mm offset. I pushed them out 10mm so I think a 9" with a 35mm offset would work. It would only be 5mm out more than mine. On the rear I ran a different hat than his standard that was thinner with a 35mm wheel and it was perfect. Dave and I went over all the measurements on the rear with both hats and a 43mm 17x9 was within 1mm of how my set up is. If you aren't running adj arms in the rear I would run a 43mm 17x9. You can always space it out a mill or two but if you are our 5mm too much it will rub. If you are only going to run a 255 you will have a little more tire room. I ran a 245 on an 8 and 275 on the 9. I rolled the front when I painted but not before and it didn't rub. Watch the front lower fender when turned though. I trimmed the inner rear with a grinder after I painted when I went to a MT drag radial. They are pretty wide for a 275.

     

    Clifton

  3. Clifton

    Hi Clifton!

     

    My name is Jayson, and I've been working on a 1977 280Z for a while now. I noticed on the "Wheel Show!" thread that you had the exact wheels I was eyeing, and I wanted to know if you had done anything to fit the 17" x 9" wheels in the stock wells. I currently have the complete set of Arizona Z car suspension parts front and back (including coilovers), along with the 5-lug disc brake conversion and big slotted 13" front rotor with 4-pots on all wheels. Dave at Arizona Z Car said the 5-lug conversion adds .5" space to the front and .75" to the back.

     

    I want to put the 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x9 wheels with +35 offset at all 4 corners , on 245 or 255 tires. Do you think this setup could work with the 280? Will I need to roll the fenders? I'm going to keep the stock fender width (i.e. not put in ZG flares or wide-body kits).

     

    Thanks for ANY advice you could give me! Your car is incredible btw.. I LOVE the grey super-sleeper idea. Got myself a 7M supra turbo in the garage too :)

  4. Clifton
    If the car was nuetral before it will push now. If it pushd before it will really push now. If that's the case you could bumo up the rear spring rate a little. If it is just a street car it doesn't really matter.
  5. Clifton
    PM ARZ he is running them.
  6. Clifton
    On my 73' I originally used the stock feed line and the vapor or some other line for the return. It was a little larger than the actual return line. I ran it with a 255lph Walbro, made 500+rwhp and fuel pressure was good at idle. I later went to twin pumps and did both lines in 3/8 hard.
  7. Clifton
    http://www.por15.com/ Getting the tank boiled out should be your first priority if it looked anything like mine did.
  8. Clifton
    tec280zx, 1fastZ is running those too. They look real good on a Z.
  9. Clifton
    You can mount the fpr at the fuel tank if you wanted to. Fuel Safe does on some of there cells.
  10. Clifton
    That's where I mounted it on my 73.
  11. Clifton
    You can run coil overs sleeves without cutting and welding. Just let the sleeve sit on the old spring perch. You don't "have to" cut off the excess. Actually you will need to weld a piece of tube to the front upper spring perch to center the 2.5" spring. The rear you can leave it out and grind some on the isolator and the spring will seat. Is it the best way to do it, no but it works.
  12. Clifton
    Why do you think it's rich? What's the plug gap? I'm assuming it's stock boost. I would keep it in the .025-.028" range to be safe.
  13. Clifton
    You can't tell what they are by looking at the spray pattern. I would either send them off to someone like Witchhunter and have them flowed and/or buy a wideband.
  14. Clifton
    There isn't a best angle then. Air come in the front and goes through the IC.
  15. Clifton
    I love the YZ fenders Reaction research has. Some body work needed. There are ZG flares that bolt on if you don't want to do body and paint. MSA has smaller ones. Someone on here has some wider ones.
  16. Clifton
    8* is about right at idle. Total timing is more important. If it's popping through the intake it's lean unless you've messed with the cam or dist. Are you sure it's 40-42 psi under load. I'm mean WOT up through the revs not just pulling the vacuum source on the FPR. I just realized this was a turbo swap. Does this happen only when going a little into boost? Are you using turbo injectors? Is this a factory turbo efi setup?
  17. Clifton
    The numbers you posted are lateral, not longitudinal acceleration as ARZ is talking about. .9 in a turn is one thing. Doing close to that in a straight line on the street with street legal tires is another and makes most passengers shiit:mrgreen:..
  18. Clifton
    30 psi at what volume? Under load or at idle? Are you on standalone? If not, the O2 is for closed loop and isn't your problem.
  19. Clifton
    I just pulled SDS off one Z to put MS1 on it .
  20. Clifton
    To use the paddle shifters it would still need an after market transmission controller too.
  21. Clifton
    IMO, there isn't a good reason to angle an IC on a S30. After the air gets through the IC, if it can, it has to go through the radiator. It would be easier for the air to continue in the same direction. If the air doesn't get through the IC easily it could restrict the radiator airflow some, possibly causing it to run warm at speed. I over think the radiator as I'm in Az.
  22. Clifton
    I doubt you suddenly have a timing issue. I would suspect the tank as everyone else is. My 73' sat for years and would run in 3 minute intervals. The tank was full of rusty brown crud. I replaced the tank. You can remove the sender and get a light and mirror and look into the tank. Or when it's running like shiit, measure the return volume of fuel. I don't know what the stock pump flows but it should be at least 15 gallons an hour at 35-40 psi for a 180 hp engine. ( A 255 Walbro is around 40-45 gl/hr) Checking this would rule out a fuel issue.
  23. Clifton
    Compressor and turbine wheels are balanced individually. Unless it came from an aftermarket shop like Turbonetics it won't matter. Even they just take the weight off the compressor nut. I've mixed and matched their parts without problems. New nut of coarse.
  24. Clifton
    The wastegate line coming off was what killed it. It was on stock pistons for a few years with no problems at that boost. I don't blame the ring lands for breaking, it would have happened to any motor. When the line came off it detonated about a hundred times before I got out of it. Don't trust 1/4" wastegate lines without real hose clamps at 30 psi:mrgreen:. FWIW, FFM's don't make more power unless the runner length has been shortened.
  25. Clifton
    The cracks won't effect it at all. Remove the compressor wheel. They can gall on the shaft if you have to turn it alot without it slowly coming off. Once it's off, lightly tap on the threaded end of the shaft and the turbine will pop out. The only that that will be giving resistance is the piston ring on the end of the turbine wheel. You just need enough force to pop that out. Same with putting it back in just make sure you have the ring seated as far as it will go into the chamfer in the center housing. Use the T4 heat shield with the T4 wheel too.
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