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About Clifton

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  1. Ed, did you get your VR dizzy working? I'm having a similar problem with no RPM on MT. At least not during cranking. If I spin it by hand or with a drill I get a signal.
  2. Didn't see this until today. I was running a 17x8 in the front with a 25mm offset. I pushed them out 10mm so I think a 9" with a 35mm offset would work. It would only be 5mm out more than mine. On the rear I ran a different hat than his standard that was thinner with a 35mm wheel and it was perfect. Dave and I went over all the measurements on the rear with both hats and a 43mm 17x9 was within 1mm of how my set up is. If you aren't running adj arms in the rear I would run a 43mm 17x9. You can always space it out a mill or two but if you are our 5mm too much it will rub. If you are only going to run a 255 you will have a little more tire room. I ran a 245 on an 8 and 275 on the 9. I rolled the front when I painted but not before and it didn't rub. Watch the front lower fender when turned though. I trimmed the inner rear with a grinder after I painted when I went to a MT drag radial. They are pretty wide for a 275.



  3. Hi Clifton!


    My name is Jayson, and I've been working on a 1977 280Z for a while now. I noticed on the "Wheel Show!" thread that you had the exact wheels I was eyeing, and I wanted to know if you had done anything to fit the 17" x 9" wheels in the stock wells. I currently have the complete set of Arizona Z car suspension parts front and back (including coilovers), along with the 5-lug disc brake conversion and big slotted 13" front rotor with 4-pots on all wheels. Dave at Arizona Z Car said the 5-lug conversion adds .5" space to the front and .75" to the back.


    I want to put the 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x9 wheels with +35 offset at all 4 corners , on 245 or 255 tires. Do you think this setup could work with the 280? Will I need to roll the fenders? I'm going to keep the stock fender width (i.e. not put in ZG flares or wide-body kits).


    Thanks for ANY advice you could give me! Your car is incredible btw.. I LOVE the grey super-sleeper idea. Got myself a 7M supra turbo in the garage too :)

  4. If the car was nuetral before it will push now. If it pushd before it will really push now. If that's the case you could bumo up the rear spring rate a little. If it is just a street car it doesn't really matter.
  5. On my 73' I originally used the stock feed line and the vapor or some other line for the return. It was a little larger than the actual return line. I ran it with a 255lph Walbro, made 500+rwhp and fuel pressure was good at idle. I later went to twin pumps and did both lines in 3/8 hard.
  6. http://www.por15.com/ Getting the tank boiled out should be your first priority if it looked anything like mine did.
  7. tec280zx, 1fastZ is running those too. They look real good on a Z.
  8. You can mount the fpr at the fuel tank if you wanted to. Fuel Safe does on some of there cells.
  9. That's where I mounted it on my 73.
  10. You can run coil overs sleeves without cutting and welding. Just let the sleeve sit on the old spring perch. You don't "have to" cut off the excess. Actually you will need to weld a piece of tube to the front upper spring perch to center the 2.5" spring. The rear you can leave it out and grind some on the isolator and the spring will seat. Is it the best way to do it, no but it works.
  11. Why do you think it's rich? What's the plug gap? I'm assuming it's stock boost. I would keep it in the .025-.028" range to be safe.
  12. You can't tell what they are by looking at the spray pattern. I would either send them off to someone like Witchhunter and have them flowed and/or buy a wideband.
  13. There isn't a best angle then. Air come in the front and goes through the IC.
  14. I love the YZ fenders Reaction research has. Some body work needed. There are ZG flares that bolt on if you don't want to do body and paint. MSA has smaller ones. Someone on here has some wider ones.
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