Brake hardlines...problems

[lbhsbZ]

So in my effort to get the car done by next weekend for the race, I decided to bleed the brakes today. I had fluid leaks everywhere. Both fittings at the master leaked, both the front and rear TEEs leaked, the only things that didn't leak were my prop valve and the connections at the brake hoses. I remade all the lines at least twice, and replaced all the TEEs a couple times. I can't see anything wrong with them after disassembly. I'm using bundy-flex, or soft steel line, not stainless. Here's my flaring procedure, let me know if I'm doing something wrong

 

Cut line with tubing cutter

Clean up hole with tapered reamer, and deburr edge with file

Clamp line in tool with 1/8" stickout, and make bubble flare

Remove die and make inverted flare

 

I tried not crushing the flare down too hard, and then crushing the hell out of it, both ways leaked. I'm running out of patience with these lines...but regardless of whether or not I make the race (its looking like I'm not going to make it), how the hell do I make the lines stop leaking?

[Pop N Wood]

So in my effort to get the car done by next weekend for the race, I decided to bleed the brakes today. I had fluid leaks everywhere. Both fittings at the master leaked, both the front and rear TEEs leaked, the only things that didn't leak were my prop valve and the connections at the brake hoses. I remade all the lines at least twice, and replaced all the TEEs a couple times. I can't see anything wrong with them after disassembly. I'm using bundy-flex, or soft steel line, not stainless. Here's my flaring procedure, let me know if I'm doing something wrong

 

Cut line with tubing cutter

Clean up hole with tapered reamer, and deburr edge with file

Clamp line in tool with 1/8" stickout, and make bubble flare

Remove die and make inverted flare

 

I tried not crushing the flare down too hard, and then crushing the hell out of it, both ways leaked. I'm running out of patience with these lines...but regardless of whether or not I make the race (its looking like I'm not going to make it), how the hell do I make the lines stop leaking?

 

About the only thing I can think of is your die is suppose to have a little ridge on it you use to measure how high the end of the line should extend above the die. That may be 1/8 inch. But each die does have a different height ridge.

[ezzzzzzz]

Go with Pop's insight. There is a shoulder on the flaring insert that is usually used to determine the proper height needed. Also, you must use the correct insert for the tubing diameter. 1/8" sounds a bit shy of material needed to create a good double flare on 3/16" tubing. With too little material the rolled lip of the flare will not provide adequate surface contact to the fitting nipple and/or the line will actually split.

[lbhsbZ]

I agree. According to the ridge on the die, I should have about 1/8" stickout. In the past, I've always gone with stickout the same as the diameter of the tubing. I tried both ways, and they both leaked. I ordered a new flare tool, 50 feet of line, a few pounds of TEEs and line nuts, and 2 more master cylinders (The fittings are in so tight I can't get one of them out). I'm gonna sit in the garage all night tonight and make lines till I figure out why they are leaking.

[Trevor]

http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staff/wunz/NoABSTCS/DoubleFlare.html

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/drivetrain/discbrakes/doubleflare.htm

[lbhsbZ]

Problem solved....I didn't have time to post last night. I had a buddy come by last night who has several contracts to make brake lines for limited run vehicles. He took one look at my seemingly perfect flare and told me what the problem was. My tool wasn't making a big enough bubble in the line before I crushed it into the flare. We tried a bunch of samples last night with my old tool, trying different stickout and everything, and nothing could duplicate the bubble made by the good tool. Maybe mine is wore out, I dunno. I haven't used it all that much. He brought his $400 flaring tool over, which is cake to use, doesn't garf up the line where grab it, and make huge bubbles. I used that to remake all the lines again and I've got a solid pedal with no leaks.