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lbhsbZ

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lbhsbZ last won the day on June 11 2016

lbhsbZ had the most liked content!

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About lbhsbZ

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  • Birthday 12/11/1980

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    CALIFORNIA

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  1. ...or whatever you want to call it. It hurts to write this...but the Z is gone. It started off as a $1 bet to build the baddest open class road race car to ever compete in the the series (calderapromotions.com), but I never made it to the race. I bought a 1973 240Z, with a blowed up 327 in it and stock everything else, gutted it, caged it, built a motor that made 550hp (conservative #) at the crank, stuck a TKO600 box behind it with a R200/4.68/Quaiffe, some 315/35/17 ®, 275/40/17(F), 13" front brakes, badass suspension, and a bunch of other trick Chit. The car got towed away tonight by it
  2. Maybe I got lucky. I used some collars from BetaMotorsports and EMI camber plates to put my datsun back together for the new owner...I'm using full length struts, as the sectioned ones on the previous setup were a little short with 17" rims and big tires. I cut the perches off, and ground down the excess, leaving only the weld there. The weld acts as the stop for the collar, and its plenty secure. I just slid the collars on, with a little tape wrapped around the strut to take up the 1mm of space between the strut and collar, and they work fine. No welding required.
  3. I've got about 3 sets. Send me an email.. lbhsbz@hotmail.com
  4. Jon, I don't have a picture but my window net installations are easy. I run 2 horizontal pieces of 3/8 roundstock...one on top and one on bottom to retain the window net. I weld 2 tabs onto the main hoop leg and 2 tabs onto the A-pillar with hole bigger than the roundstock...1/2" works good for me. Make the sections of stok about 2 inches longer than the distance between the two top tabs and the 2 bottom tabs. Grab a couple of washers, slide them over the ends of your stock and tack weld them 1 inch from the end...do this only on one end of each piece of stock. Find a coupl
  5. In Ross's defence, everything ordered in the automotive aftermarket industry 1 week before, the week during, or the week after SEMA is generally delayed. Thats just the way it is. My usual spring vendor (H&R) who can get me stuff next day generally, took 2 weeks to ship my springs...I ordered them about 3 days before SEMA. Everyone in the automotive aftermarket is running on a skeleton crew the week of SEMA, and is generally slammed the week before and recovering the week after. (except our company of course, because I stay home to hold down the fort). Now that that has been said....
  6. It's a '73, so its smog exempt. The car is currently registered, insured, and street legal so long as the cops are wearing ear plugs LOL. Its just too expensive (for me) to operate as a track car.
  7. This one: I started building this car a year ago for a circuit down in Mexico, which over the last year has declined rapidly. We are losing tracks and partipants fast. 2 years ago there were 5 competitors in OPEN class, now there's 2, and 1 just dropped out. The car isn't really street legal, so whats the point. I've been thinking about getting myself a little solid axle Toyo 4x4 and going out to play on the trails on the weekends...seems like much more bang for the buck than road racing, and better scenery too. Since everything on the car is Chevy gear, I'd like t
  8. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123654&page=2 Post number 28
  9. Thanks for the info.... If you read through the FAQ that I wrote up, 8 washers, even if they were flat, would not be sufficiently retained by the 2 little punkass retainers....the 2 center washers are retained only by their own springiness, and when assembled, all of the 8 washers are completely compressed flat. I think this is the design flaw with the OBX. If the washers are assembled )))(((, they will stay put. If the washers are assembled ))))((((, the 2 center ones will fall out, which is what happened in my case. We reassembled TonyD's diff (my old OBX) using 6 washers, in the
  10. Post a picture of the deck of your block and a picture of the gasket...I've got a stack of gaskets at the house for earlier motors, I'll compare them when I get home.
  11. I'm not sure the headgaskets were the problem....the reason for the small holes in the headgaskets towards the front and the larger holes towards the back, is to force the water to go to the rear of the engine....if the front cooling holes in the headgasket are large and provide no restriction, then water will go straight through the front ports into the intake manifold and back through the upper radiator hose.....without any coolant flow through the rear of engine..... When you reassemble everything, get a temp sensor in the rear of one of one of the heads and monitor that temperature v
  12. I'm running the TKO600 and couldn't be happier with it. I don't think I'll ever be able to break it, it shifts good and has a pretty stout torque rating. I don't see myself ever using 5th gear though...even with a 4.68 final drive in the car.
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