nbesheer Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Yes I've searched but i mostly got information on greese. So anyways I'm going to do my front brakes today and I figured I might as well repack my wheel bearings upon looking at my haynes manuel it seems like a very lenghty project for someone whos not don't anything like that before. What do you guys think the time frame is for this ? and in the manuel it says to discard the cotter pin and put a new one, is that really neccesary or can I use the old one. I have no idea what a cotter pin is so I don't know if I have a replacement which is why. THanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrommitZ Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 It's pretty easy compared to what most people do. Do you have a bearing grease packer? You should put in a new cotter pin. The the worst case, it can be the only thing keeping the wheel on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 I do not have a grease packer but my dad said you put greease on your hand you like scoop it up into the bearing, hard to explain with out hand motions. is it absolutly neccesary to have a packer ? how much do they cost ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Using your hand is just fine, I do it that way. So long as there is grease in every crevis your fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 I just did new wheel bearings on a 240Z today. I packed the grease in by hand. Wear latex gloves and do it in a very clean spot on your workbench. Buy new bearings, use synthetic grease (Mobil 1, Redline CV2), use a new cotter pin, and follow the instructions in the FSM regarding tightening the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 if my current bearings are not shot is it still possible to reuse then because there is no way I can afford new bearings at this point in time. kragen puts them at 15 ish for each so thats $60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 Okay I am a bit stuck now. The haynes manuel says to remove the front inner wheel bearing to 9. On the rear side of the hub, use a screwdriver to pry out the inner bearing grease. As this is done, note the direction in which the seal is installed. (Did they typo grease with seal ?) And if they do mean seal there is a maybe .5cm tall rubber seal thing but it's super hard and barely flexs so I'm afraid if I pry it out it will break. Then it says to hit the bearing races (is that the bearing ?) with a brass bar to get it out but in the diagram they still have that rubber seal on it. I'm really confused on what it's asking for. EDIT: I got the bearing out as well as the seal thing so that's no concern anymore but still need help witht hat grease is it okay ? Also I have Valvoline Semi-Synthetic Dura Blend Grease will this work as I can't afford more stuff and my dad allready has this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 I know i'm triple posting but I got to another hang up. On the fron't right side the Inner wheel bearing is stuck to the mini axle (stub axle ?) and I can not get it off do I need one of those puller things that looks like a claw, I know on the other side it was stuck in the hub(?) any suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatMan Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 The "claw" thing you wrote about is in fact, called a bearing puller. That would probably be your best bet, unless you can get a pickle fork, or some other thin tool behind the bearing. It just has to put even pressure on the backside of the bearing. Personally, all the front wheel bearings I have replaced have stayed in the hub. hmm. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 It doesn't even need to be thin in my case, the bearing have about half and inch of space behind it which makes me wonder if it is a size too small maybe ? I guess I would have to take the other side out and replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 You really need to replace the bearings, especially if they are getting stuck on the spindle. If you're not going to do that, then clean then thoroughly, blow them dry without spinning the rollers or races very fast and use the grease you mentioned above. You must replace the cotter pin and the grease seal. Those are not multi-use parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted May 21, 2007 Author Share Posted May 21, 2007 Well the bearing was spinning on the axle thing. so got new bearings ($8.00 for inners $9 for outers) not bad at all although my dad did have to pay for them, replaced the races I didn't even know those came out I thought it was part of the hub. all should be fine and dandy tomorrow when i put them all back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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