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Careful With That Filler Eugene


johnc

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So, I've got this R180 moustache bar that I have to reinforce a bit and redrill for a R200. I plate the center area and proceed to fill the old holes in the bar prior to redrilling with what I thought was ER70S-2 filler.

 

With the bar mounting in my mill I check up a .563" TIN HSS drill and start making a hole. It goes nowhere. Coolant, slow speed, lots of pressure, and its like I'm drilling hardened steel. It took 15 minutes to get one hole drilled and another 15 minutes (and a second bit) to drill the second hole. WTF?

 

Sitting at my welding table, grumbling about the drilling hell I just went through and getting ready to start welding another project, I notice the stub end of the filler I used to fill the holes in the moustache bar. I look at the filler number coined in the end: ER120S-3! Holy crap!

 

I look at the 10 lbs of filler I just bought. Its all ER120S-3 in a box labeled ER70S-2. Luckily this was my second job using this filler and the first was something that a super high strength (120,000 psi) filler won't affect.

 

Now I've got 10 lbs of filler strong enough to weld a nuclear containment vessel. Luckily I only paid ER70 pricing for this stuff. But it did cost me $18.00 in drill bits and 30 minutes of confusion and frustration.

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I took the ER120S-3 filler back this morning. I can't think of any alloy steel I'll ever weld that will need that kind of strength and I can really use the ER70S-2. If something does come a long, I know where to find the super strong stuff. The guys a the welding supply shop were thoroughly confused becasue they sold me a sealed 10 lb. box. Looks like Harris is screwing up at the plant.

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Mustache bars are made from a hardened steel. Once you have located the new holes with a prick punch ,you can anneal the the drill zone with a pintipped torch.Bring it to cherry red and allow to cool on its own. You can use a wet rag to keep the heat from spreading too far.

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