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PDK strut bar assembly-installation complete!


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well i finally finished the installation of my pdk strut bar assembly. since i have camber plates i needed to go the route of the weld on strut attachment points. it's a nice kit, well built and simple to install-just takes a bit of time. for my z we removed the paint from the strut towers to make the welding clean. i then made a cardboard template from the mounting plate, transcribed it to the strut tower for proper positioning. we then tack welded the plate and 'massaged' it with a hammer to bend it to match the shape of the strut tower. prior to welding i installed the assembly to assure proper fit & alignment. the only part that needed any modification were the 'fingers' [they are actually a long tab that gets welded to the reinforcement plate and have holes at the top where the bolt ties together; cross bar, down tube and firewall tube]. the original 'fingers' were too short and only provided about 1" of contact with the strut tower plate. my new ones give nearly 3" of [welded] contact. anyway, it looks great and really provides some nice added stiffness to the engine bay. check the pics!DSC04831.JPGDSC04826.JPGDSC04827.JPGDSC04828.JPGDSC04829.JPG

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the bottom pic shows a close up of all the bars tied together. there is a large bolt that attaches them. for the 'fork' bars that go to the firewall they attach at 2 points. each has an 'L' bracket at the end-the outboard tube uses the hood height adjustor, slips over the 'stud' that comes thru the wiper access panel, the inboard you simply drill a small hole to bolt it in. that's pretty much it. i think i would have had it installed within 2 hours if i didn't have to do the welding work... takes less than 10 minutes to completely remove the assembly.

Can you please take a picture of how the tubes attach to the firewall. I'm trying to figure out how the design allows you to take the bars in/out easily for engine service.
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yes jason, the down tubes are bolted in. you drill all the way through-with a larger hole in the top or bottom [your choice] then insert a sleeve which the bolt goes thru. there is also another plate that goes on the underside of the frame rail. the sleeve prevents the frame rail from crushing when you torque the bolts down. another benefit is that the bolts go all the way thru your sway bar mounts and provide more reinforcement for them as well. mine bar mounts had been repaired years ago after much auto-xing had pulled the original nut plates thru the frame rails.

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Looks real sturdy. Be sure to report how much different it makes the car feel. I am adding a triangulated tower brace to mine to replace the simple cross bar.

 

i have them on my car and make a world a difference when i autox. Most notably would be the initial turn in response and front end grip.

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