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1 tuff z

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Everything posted by 1 tuff z

  1. Mark, are you going to make it ZCON this year? Love to see your Z run at Barber!
  2. Hey Mark, I'll be at ZCON and after all these years I finally get to see your Z in person! Look for me in the airport rental car, perhaps it'll make it on the track at HPR & PPIR...
  3. My brain hurts after reading and, attempting to digest this all. Great work!
  4. Looking good Alain, keep us updated and looking forward to seeing your Z hit the road!
  5. Jon, there's a Fairlady ownwers group on Facebook, here's the link. Great project and really like the wheels - do you have any info on them?
  6. Been following for years and anxiously awaiting the finale - absolutely love it, congrats!
  7. Chris, I'm still in for a set as they'll look great on my 72 Fairlady Z once the restoration is completed!
  8. Keith, If I remember correctly our rear spoilers are very similar. Purchased mine from Brian K. . Link to his website: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd2155023/ZCC__ZG_R__REAR_SPOILER_
  9. Try U-Line for boxes. For the Fairlady reproduction grill I found a box to fit nearly perfect and, when purchased in modest quantity were much less expensive than I thought and more convenient that making the box from a sheet of cardboard.
  10. Alain, Wizard Cooling in Buffalo? If so I had Scott [owner] build the rad for my LS swap 10 years ago [had to bring him an old Z rad for the mounting dimensions] and it's been great. He asked how I would drive it and expected horsepower and added a few tweaks at my request. I must say the rad is very well build and don't anticipate replacement, ever...
  11. Don't remember the paint brand but looked and it's from primer, that rust colored variety. I don't recall gluing or otherwise and tried to remove it but not coming off easily.
  12. Andy, ironic we discovered the same thing albeit a few years apart. I needed to cap my heater box when putting the boost gauge in the left eyeball vent and found a spray can cap fit perfectly, been there ever since the early 90's!
  13. Hoping someone will make them, they'll look great on my 72 Fairlady Z!
  14. Andy, I believe [referring to the rear trim panels] that is what's called "lack of attention to detail"...
  15. I have a pair, bare metal, louvered, ready to paint. Email me: palermodavid13@gmail.com
  16. I too have the Skillard splitter and working on fitting it to my 73. I've been in contact with Ben for awhile providing feedback [as I believe he wasn't initially aware of the 240-260-280 differences] and to make it more challenging I have a Kaminari air dam which is deeper and wider. Instead of purchasing longer bolts to reach the radiator lower support holes I'm going to make some stand off brackets which should provide greater stability, strength and ease of mounting [found the long bolts were not so easy to thread in]. Some modification to the turnbuckle locations and the splitter isn't quite wide enough for the Kaminari so Ben has agreed to make me some 'extensions' which I'll either bolt or weld on - haven't decided yet. Anyway, ChumpCar racing, my 72 Fairlady Z restoration, work, family, vacation and HPDE's all seem to be taking time away from the splitter...
  17. Same for me, been that way for months
  18. Keith, I have the same spoiler, in fiberglass. Mine had to be clearanced on both sides to avoid quarter panel contact. Instead of sealer I used a dense foam tape [like what is used to seal a truck cap to the bed] along the front and back edge, leaving a gap for the water to drain at the low point where the lock is. I then purchased some large diameter washers as my backing plates. A bit challenging to hold the washer in place and get the nut started but got it done. I've noticed greater straight line stability at Watkins Glen but I only see a bit over 145 there, not the speeds that you'll experience.
  19. Just pulled my Fairlady out of winter hibernation. This past winter I mated a 100k mile L28 stock block to an E31 head with mild port & polish work, new valve guides, 280z valves & an Isky 290/490 regrind cam. Triple 45 DCOE 152 [spain] Webers that are pretty new [from Evilc] and a header/exhaust from Sean Dezart in France. I welded in a bung for a wide band O2 sensor but haven't plumbed the gauge yet. specs for my triples 145 Mains 155 air correction 36 chokes F16 emulsion tubes 45 accelerator pump jets 55F8 idle jets 4.50 auxillary venturis Today while checking the above specs [hope I have ID'd correctly] I checked the idle mixture adjustment screws. From L>R they were; 2.5, 2.25, 2.75, 2.75, 2.25, 2.25 turns out. I only have a few miles on it but looking at the header coloring i have more blue in the middle cylinders than outboard. Think that's lean? When idling it sounds like it slightly missing [new plugs], pops when cruising along and pops under deceleration. It really pulls nicely and sounds awesome under mid to full throttle, once it climbs above 3k rpm's. My timing light is broken so I'm unable to check that and until I finish the wide band info is lacking. Currently it prefers rapid but not stomp on it throttle input and if I provide too little input begins to die. Ahh, the fun of sorting it all!
  20. Looked at my receipt again, they're LS7 lifters/guides [edited my post too], thanks for the reminder.
  21. Keith, here are a few images of the catch can installed. Can is from Norris Motorsports, MNN-PCV-CC, including all the fittings & shipping was about $130.
  22. Some of you know that I drove from upstate NY to Memphis last summer with my son Alan to attend ZCON 2015. During my first session lapping at MIR a lifter collapsed. We fiddled a bit with it and it eventually corrected itself but I drove gingerly in order to ensure I could drive it home. Arrival home ok and dropped it to have the lifters/guides replaced & upgraded to LS7 as I've read the stock LS1 lifters are prone to failure [part of my ongoing quest to make the LS1 more durable], I also had them install ARP head studs and new head gaskets. Fast forward to last week; Z now out of winter hibernation, initial startup and all my lifers are talking and zero oil pressure. Shut it down, check oil [i change my oil each fall prior to storage] which is good, restart and after about 5 seconds [feels like forever] my oil pressure climbs to 25 and lifters are quiet. Long story short I drop it to the shop again and they determine that the oil pump is not supplying sufficient pressure. When I first did the swap I had the oil pump inlet & outlets ported for better flow. They also installed a new cam retainer plate [while in there]. Now I have instant and higher oil pressure at startup as well as better pressure at higher RPM's. Other upgrades for reliability & durability: double row timing chain, oil catch can/separator.
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