got me a stroker kit!

[graphicjunkie]

I had to share with those that can appreciate! I just picked up a 383 stroker kit for $200. He might want my stock heads off my 5.7, which will drop the price to $100!! Which is fine with me as I wanted to can the stock heads anyway!! My 5.7 isn't an LT1...it's the older TBI 5.7 with the cast iron heads...so they are hurting more than helping. He also is asking for my stock exhaust manifolds. Think they are worth another $100 for the pair?

[dsommer]

Exhaust manifolds may not bring $100 but take whatever he offers, good score!!!

[grumpyvette]

IF the kits in decent shape I think your well ahead! congrats

just be sure you get it ballanced, the block clearanced, and all matching components like ballancer and flexplate , purchased and sent to the machine shop,as a package deal. before having to ballance the assembly and clearancing the block ETC.

keep in mind a cheap price is not a reason to buy something if its not exactly what you want, if the kits cheap ,but still , it requires extensive machine work and its not exactly what you want it might not be a great deal.

example, if its a cast crank, stock rods and cast pistons, its a wasted $100 if your thinking of beating on it at 7000rpm or heavy nitrous.. but just fine as a daily driver with increased torque over a similar 350...

its a bargin if its what you want, its a wasted $100 if it won,t meet your needs

hell, ID donate the exhaust manifolds if he takes the heads for $100, so anything he gives for the manifolds is gravy

[graphicjunkie]

Well, the crank is the only thing I'm not certain about. I'm looking to hit 4-500HP down the road...here is what I just got.

 

ad:

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I have a used standard GM 400 crank w/ clean journals. I also have a NEW externally balanced flywheel and a used GM 400 externally balanced harmonic balancer. I also have a NEW set of Speed Pro 383 Chevy flat top pistons, part # H860CP, and they're .020 over. If your thinking of building that ground thumping small block this summer, here are the major components you'll need. I'm asking $200 or I may consider $100 and a set of heads, depending on condition.

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so tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree or not.

[dsommer]

.020 over bore, you may be in trouble already unless you have a standard bore block that needs no more than .020 overbore.

[jt1]

1) You will have to get the 400 mains turned down to 350 main size;

2) Is your block a two piece seal block? the 400 crank won't work with a one piece;

3) You will have to get the whole show balanced.

 

Not trying to be a downer, just trying to let you know some possible pitfalls to be aware of, you have the possibility of having a nice inexpensive torquer combo.

 

John

[graphicjunkie]

great info..thanks all. I've never had to deal with this stuff before, so I don't honestly know. I know that the engine hasn't been bored before, and it runs sweet...so HOPEFULLY I don't have to go more than 20 over. But truth be told, I was told to expect to pay at least 150 for the crank it's self. So getting the crank and balancer, and flywheel is still ok if I have to end up investing in new pistons to match the bore.

 

one piece / two piece seal block? I have NO idea what this means other than I'm guessing you are talking about the front and rear mains? Maybe one piece press in or two piece? Why won't the 400 work on a one piece? I don't understand, could you explain? Is there a way to tell? would all data tell? My buddy helping me through all this works for a dealership and could pull it up that way if so. But I need to get this figured out sooner than later so if it won't work I can tell the guy, as he had a secondary possible buyer.

 

great info...thanks again!!

[grumpyvette]

 

http://www.mortec.com/journal.htm

 

(look at the lower chart)

 

Gen.I, "Small Journal"

265...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00"

283...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00"

302...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00"

327...Mains-2.30"-Rods-2.00"

 

Gen.I, "Medium Journal", includes "Vortec" 305 and 350 thru '98

262...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

267...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

302...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

305...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

307...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

327...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

350...Mains-2.45"-Rods-2.10"

 

Gen.I, "Large Journal"

400...Mains-2.65"-rods-2.10"

[jt1]

Two piece and one piece refer to the rear main seal design. Up to 86, blocks were two piece rear main seal, then GM made a running change in 87 to one piece seal blocks. You must use a crank that matches the block, they will not interchange. Grumpy's pic shows why, the cranks and blocks are very different in the rear main seal area.

 

I think you're getting a really good deal, and I like good deals. I would but the stuff just because it's a bargain, even if i had to get another block. Are the pistons new or used? Still a deal either way.

 

You need a two piece seal block to match the crank, that's standard bore and will clean up at 20. If it's a two bolt main I would use arp bolts in the main caps and line hone it. The 400 cranks mains have to be turned down to 350 size, usually the bottom of the cylinders have to be notched to clear the rod bolts, sometimes the pan rail too. Depending on which rod you use you may have clearance problems with the cam, so that has to be checked. You get to know your machinest pretty well doing a 383.

 

There might be a clearance issue with the 400 damper if you use JTR engine mounts. You probably need to do a search and see, but you might need to use MSA mounts to get the 400 damper to clear the steering rack. The 400 damper is larger diameter than a 350 damper.

 

Once again, I'm not trying to be negative, just letting you know some info you need to come up with a plan and make decisions. 383's are cool engines and make a lot of power. Mark has one in his beautiful yellow 240, and it's so much stronger than my 350 it makes my head hurt.

 

John