Bare bones Nissan EFI

[alsil]

What is the bare minumum you need to have isntalled for the Nissan EFI to work?

I'm guessing it's at LEAST these components:

- Intake

- Injectors

- Throttle body

- MAF sensor (or is it SD?)

- EFI tank and fuel lines

- Fuel pressure regulator (is that on the rail?)

- O2 sensor

- Computer and harness

I am thinking about putting this on an L24, but I seem to remember there being a difference between the 2 heads, that you could put the carb manifolds on an L28 head, but not the EFi intake onto an L24...are the heads cut at the intake ports for injectors on the top?

 

With this setup correctly, am I looking at it being more efficient than the Su's, better gas mileage, etc? seems like it would be, more controlled mixture, etc.

 

I figure that most of the pieces I could pick up at the pick n pull or something, so as long as I get good parts, it would be a solid system.

 

I want to bare bones also since 1. I don't need to smog a '73, 2. the less to install, the less that can go wrong.

 

Opinions?

[Daeron]

You didn't mention the fuel pump.. and your 240 tanks should be usable, IIRC people usually swap the supply and return lines or something?

 

And I would also imagine that you would want to lift the ignition system (coil/dizzy/etc) from the FI vehicle as well...

 

Go to carfiche.com or carfiche.org (i forget which) and look for a 280Z or 280ZX FSM to download, and read up on the FI and ignition chapters.. and go to blues tech tips page and download the "FI Bible" and read that, too. Read the bible first, it is easier to understand and will help you understand the more integrated picture that is in the FSM.

[alsil]

You're right, after re-reading I did forget the pump and the dist / ignition. I'll check out those docs you mentioned.

After looking through a bunch of pics, it seems I would have to swap heads because of the injector location anyways, which might not be worth it for compression reasons. I might be better off just getting a complete L28 and swapping that in.

My reasoning for all this really is reliability. My commute is about to be 37 miles each way to work, sitting in traffic part of the time, and with gas prices the way they are I'd like it to be as good on gas as possible, while still being able to drive up and over the hill every day.

[RTz]

- MAF sensor (or is it SD?)

 

Its an AFM (air flow meter)

 

You'll also need the water temp sensor and TPS.

 

- EFI tank and fuel lines

 

Not absolutely necessary BUT you'll pick up air pockets when the fuel level is less than full. Its annoying and hard on the pump. A later tank is the easiest but a surge tank can work as well. The downfall to a late tank is that it doesn't fit quite right... they moved one of the strap locations slightly. I've done it but its a little tacky.

 

 

I am thinking about putting this on an L24, but I seem to remember there being a difference between the 2 heads, that you could put the carb manifolds on an L28 head, but not the EFi intake onto an L24...are the heads cut at the intake ports for injectors on the top?

 

This is true. You'd have to machine your head to accept the EFI, or swap heads.

 

 

With this setup correctly, am I looking at it being more efficient than the Su's, better gas mileage, etc? seems like it would be, more controlled mixture, etc.

 

I'm purely an EFI guy, however if you sent your SU's to Z therapy, they could probably improve your performance and milage substantially. Couple that with a good electronic ignition and 5 speed and you might meet your goals.

 

I figure that most of the pieces I could pick up at the pick n pull or something, so as long as I get good parts, it would be a solid system.

 

Biggest thing to watch out for is the connectors... they're so old now that that most of them are broken and corroded. With good connections, you'll find the old L-Jet to be very reliable and consistent.

 

Another issue to be aware of is that a "Z" EFI system is tuned for an L28. Putting it on an L24 is going to take a LOT of tweaking to get it 'right'. You'd probably be better off pulling a Maxima system.

 

Be aware that a terrific running system takes time... don't expect to toss it on and get peak perfomance.

[alsil]

Ok Ron, you've got me going a lot more in the direction of an L28. Since this is supposed to be low buck (as in I can't do what I'd REALLY like to do because it's way too much money), I may just source up a complete L28, tank, ect.

 

I realize that it'll take some tweaking to get it to work perfectly, but the thing is, once it's dialed, it's done. With the carbs, it's fine for a while, but then you get to do it all over again a couple times a year (especially when putting 30-35k miles on a year!).

 

Knowing me (as you guys can probably guess from my last car) once it's dialed and working well for a while, I'll want to upgrade it a bit; you know, air filter (might do that first anyways), injectors, etc... but that will be later. Daily driver has to be reliable, so if I throw too much at it I'll have problems, and wind up commuting in my '02 Silverado that gets 16mpg.

 

Thanks for the info, really helps me figure this all out.