RedFive Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 So I pulled my old rotors out to replace them and the hub was obviously securely fastened to the rotor. I unbolted it and since I didn't have any sort of press I took a bar of steel and hammered on it (to distribute the force) until the thing came out. I didn't notice any deformation at the time, but later when putting the new rotors on, I saw that the back of the hub was slightly deformed. Either I did it or it was there before, I don't know...but how imperative is it that the rear face of the hub is exactly flat and smooth? I put it back on and tried spinning it around a bit and it turns okay for maybe 200 degrees, then there's a spot that takes slightly more effort to get past, and then it turns okay, then back to that spot, etc. And it's not entirely quiet, either. It sounds like it's grinding ever so slightly. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 Nothing should grind when the hub is installed. The inside of the hub where the grease seal goes is fairly thin metal and I think it would be pretty easy to distort it until it rubbed on the strut. I would guess that this is what is happening. You might put a dial indicator on the rotor just to make sure the hub isn't bent, and if it isn't then pull it back off and tweak the inside so that it doesn't rub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFive Posted July 4, 2007 Author Share Posted July 4, 2007 When you say grease seal, you mean the ring that goes behind the inner bearing, right? This? http://images1.drivewire.com/live/K801020280.JPG That's not what I screwed up. Let me see if I can describe it better. Check my attachement. That's the surface that I screwed up when I hammered it to take it out. Even thought I used a steel bar to distribute the force, it still got messed up...or it was like that before, I don't know. Are you saying I can just file down the hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 That's what I thought you meant. That area where the grease seal gets inserted is fairly thin. I don't know about filing it down, don't think I'd want to be filing right next to the bearings, but I wouldn't hesitate to bend it back the other way with a ball peen hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFive Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 I have no idea how i would bend that back. It's at least 1/4 inch thick steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 I don't think that part of the hub is that tough. I've seen enough of them bent that I'm pretty sure of it. You could grind it out, but then you'd really have to clean the crap out of the hub because you don't want metal shavings in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFive Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 Does the side I have the arrows pointing at have to be flat again, or do I just care about the inside of the cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 So long as you can still get the grease seal in and out and it doesn't rub anything I think you're good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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